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Aconcagua Team Preparing for Summit Bid

January 20, 2018

Nickel, Rikki, Martin and crew are at C3 — high camp. A little precip today as they moved up but wind is essentially nil. Clouds and no wind actually provides a bit of ‘green house’ effect, making camp fairly comfortable.

The trail is up (photo: Peter Bilodeau)

 

Packing, prepping, eating and drinking going on. Forecast still is MOS for tomorrow. Team is going to take their shot early tomorrow morning. Right decision. Doesn’t make a ton of sense to stay at high camp in good weather. Wind, above all, is the concern on Aconcagua. With winds forecasted to stay at a low ebb through tomorrow, they’ve got to go. We’ll let you know how it all works out. Time to wish them luck.

Phil Ershler

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Aconcagua Team at Camp 2

January 19th, 2018

C2 (Peter Bilodeau)

C2 (Peter Bilodeau)

Carry got made to high camp (C3) today.  Everyone currently back together at C2.  Tomorrow’s the final move.  They’ll try to get into C3 relatively early and establish camp.  Best to have as much time as possible to prep for the summit; eat, drink and rest as much as is possible at that altitude.  Forecast (remember, it is just a forecast) calls for winds to be at their lowest ebb on Sunday.  Maybe a little precip but nothing which looks too significant.  Plan is to attempt the summit on Sunday.  They’re putting themselves into a good position so let’s hope all the variables remain as they currently are.

Phil Ershler

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Program Feature: Mt. Khuiten In Western Mongolia

January 18, 2018

Last year we sent IMG Guides Greg Vernovage and Charlotte Austin to far western Mongolia to lead our inaugural Mt. Khuiten expedition. They had a blast! Charlotte, being an adventure writer, couldn’t help but put pen to paper (so to speak). Below is her trip report.  (Before you ask, the 2018 Dates are July 15-27!)

The team! (Charlotte Austin)
Mongolian Eagle Hunter (not to be confused with a hunter of eagles). (Greg Vernovage)
Yup this is a camel. Look at that sky! (Greg Vernovage)

Route to Summit in Red. (Greg Vernovage)
Summit Plateau of Mt Khuiten. (Greg Vernovage)
Happy climbers after a traditional Mongolian dinner. (Greg Vernovage)

By Charlotte Austin

What an adventure! We’re lucky to travel to lots of neat places with IMG, but I have to say that Mongolia has been one of the best. The scenery is mind-blowing, the cultural experience is unbeatable, and the climb was scenic and rewarding. And shoot, when else are you going to go on a camel-supported trek through the Altai Mountains?

Here’s a specific breakdown of this year’s adventure:

Travel days (Seattle to Ulaanbaatar): Long flights, but everything went smoothly. We all watched lots of movies, ate noodles during our layover in Seoul, and arrived in Ulaanbaatar with all of our luggage. The duffel shuffle was successful! We were met at the airport by our local Mongolian guide with a private van and bottled water. He transferred us to the hotel, and we immediately fell into bed.

Ulaanbaatar: After meeting the whole team at our hotel in Ulaanbaatar, we made the best of our short time in Mongolia’s capital city. We toured the Gandan Monastery in the morning, where we were able to see local people performing religious ceremonies and making offerings of bread, milk, and rice. We also visited the National Historical Museum which features lots of cultural displays: costumes, archeological artifacts, even hand-carved jade snuffboxes! Then we hit the Sukhbaatar Square in the city center which features a huge statue of Genghis Khan. Photos taken: approximately one million.

Lunch was a traditional Mongolian meal: lamb, dumplings, and meat soup with a side of milk tea. In the afternoon we enjoyed a one-hour cultural show, which the whole team agreed was a highlight of the trip — there were traditional Mongolian throat singers, dancing troops, and even a contortionist! Then we hit a local restaurant for our official welcome dinner, and the trip was off to a great start.

Travel day (Ulaanbaatar to Olgii): We had a very early wake-up call (4am) to catch our 6:30am flight to Olgii. The flight was smooth, and we were served pickle sandwiches (no, really) by the flight attendants. In Olgii, we met our local drivers, tossed our duffels into our vans and hit the road, or more accurately, the unpaved countryside. It’s a bumpy six-hour drive from Olgii to the trailhead, and we took lots of breaks to stretch our legs, take photos, and enjoy the views. This is a long day, but the whole team agreed that it’s amazing to see so much of the countryside.

Trekking day (trailhead to base camp): After a night in tents at the entrance to the park, the whole team was excited to hit the trails. We broke camp, loaded our duffels onto the camels (!!), and enjoyed a mellow day of walking to base camp. Highlights include brilliant wildflowers, glimpses of local sheep and yaks, and time to chat with our local staff. Base camp is beautiful; it’s nestled into a small valley at the edge of the lateral moraine below Mount Khuiten. Our staff set up tents, a kitchen, and a nice dining set-up, and we made ourselves at home. Elevation is roughly 10,000′.

Training day: On our first full day at base camp, Greg and I took the team out to the base of the Potaniin Glacier to do some basic skills training. We covered cramponing, ice axe use, and rope skills. The team was stoked to get on the glacier, and we came back to camp for a mellow afternoon.

Continue reading…

—Charlotte Austin, IMG Guide

 

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Two Teams are Heading Home

January 18th, 2018

Cerro Aconcagua and the Polish Glacier (Peter Bilodeau)

Cerro Aconcagua and the Polish Glacier (Peter Bilodeau)

 

The Ecuador team is on their way home AND so is the Vinson team.  Heard from Greg this morning and they were literally heading onto the IL 76 for their flight back to Punta Arenas.  Go figure – off the Ice with a great summit and 2 days AHEAD of the best case scenario.  I guess we can’t do much better than that.

Additionally, just got off the sat phone with Nickel from C2 on Aconcagua.  Team did a fine job today with the move.  Camp is established, they’re getting fed and hydrated and making plans for C3 and their summit attempt.  Forecasts show a little precipitation is possible for the next couple of days but then clearing.  Forecasts are just that – forecasts – but the team is doing well and in good position now to take their shot when the mountain says ‘yes’.

Phil Ershler

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Catching Up with Our Teams Down South

January 17th, 2018

Twin Otter at Vinson Base Camp (Phil Ershler)
Twin Otter at Vinson Base Camp (Phil Ershler)
Trail to C2 (Peter Bilodeau)
Trail to C2 (Peter Bilodeau)
Good Night to Get Back to the Hut (Romulo Cardenas)
Good Night to Get Back to the Hut (Romulo Cardenas)

 

OK, catch up time with all the IMG teams ‘down south’.  Greg, Luke and the Vinson team got down to Vinson base camp yesterday.  No word today so their either still at Vinson base or have moved over to the Union Glacier camp.  Possible flight off the Ice tomorrow.  Has not yet been confirmed but a good possibility.  A second opportunity to fly back to Punta Arenas is on the 20th.  They are in a SUPER position.

Nickel, Rikki, Martin and crew called in after their successful carry to C2 today.  Went well.  Weather was reasonable and the team was strong after their rest day at C1.  Plan is to make the big move tomorrow to C2.  That’s a big milestone as they’ll then be within striking distance of the summit with just one more move.  They’re all performing well.

Emily, Romulo and team have had the best of times together and the worst of climbing conditions.  We’re typically hoping for more snow when heading to Ecuador to climb.  Be careful what you wish for.  Too much snow, at the wrong time, was the issue this year.  The crew really didn’t have a chance on Chimborazo.  Had been snowing hard and was snowing hard when they took off.  You just can’t risk climbing in the avalanche conditions they encountered.  Obvious to all but still disappointing.  Regardless, this trip is coming to an end.  The Team will be catching flights home on Thursday.  Lots of good memories, good new friendships and here’s hoping there will be a ‘rematch’ back in Ecuador for the guys soon.

Phil Ershler

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Nothing But Good News from the Southern Hemisphere

January 15th, 2018

Top of the Bottom of the World (Phil Ershler)
Top of the Bottom of the World (Phil Ershler)
Water fall in Ecuador (Emily Johnston)
Water fall in Ecuador (Emily Johnston)
The Crew in Ecuador (Emily Johnston)
The Crew in Ecuador (Emily Johnston)
Aconcagua Team at C1 (Nickel Wood)
Aconcagua Team at C1 (Nickel Wood)

IMG has some news from each of our teams south of the equator.  First and foremost, Greg Vernovage, Luke Reilly and their team summited Vinson today and have begun their descent.  I spoke with Greg 15 minutes ago.  He said it was a little breezy but folks did well and that they’re beginning their descent.  He’ll check back in tonight once the team has returned to high camp.  Remember, the time everyone uses on Vinson is Chilean time, meaning it’s 5 hours later there than in Seattle.  Also keep in mind that even though they won’t get back to high camp much before midnight, the sun will still be shining and that camp is already established.  They’re doing fine.

Nickel called me just before Greg and said the entire team did a good job today on their move to C1.  C1’s around 16,000’ so that’s a big accomplishment.  They’ll have at least 2 nights, maybe even 3, at that altitude before making the move to C2 and occupying that camp.  Staying healthy and continuing the acclimatization process are the big concerns.  Obviously, there’s work to do but one step at a time is the key right now.

Emily, Romulo and team are just having too much fun in Ecuador.  Some of the crew heads home today and 3 members stay to attempt Chimborazo.  Ecuador is so much more than ‘just’ a climbing trip.  Between spending time with Romulo’s family and meeting some new friends, they also squeezed in a hike today.  Everyone’s hoping the conditions/weather on Chimborazo are favorable.

Nothing but good news right now from the Southern Hemisphere.

Phil Ershler

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All Well in the Southern Hemisphere

January 14, 2018

Let’s get caught up with the comings and goings for IMG teams in the Southern Hemisphere. Report from Emily and Romulo in Ecuador was — close but no cigar. Great morning for climbing but just couldn’t find a way around, over or through the schrund right below the summit of Antisana. Team had a super day on the mountain but just couldn’t quite ring the bell. That’s always a bummer, but I think the amount of fun this team is having makes up for that last couple of hundred feet. Chimborazo is next on their agenda.

Route finding high on Antisana (Emily Johnston)
Experiencing the beauty of Antisana (Emily Johnston)

 

On the way to Vinson C1 (Emily Johnston)

In Antarctica, Greg, Luke and team established Camp 1 on Vinson without problems and are now working on their carry and move to high camp, C2. There’ll be at least one rest day thrown in there somewhere. We try to stick one in after the carry to high camp and before moving up. Once we get to high camp, it’s game day. As soon as the mountain provides a weather opening, the team will take their summit shot. Not quite yet but won’t be long.

Nickel, Rikki, Martin and team have made consistent progress down on Aconcagua. We always take a rest day after reaching base camp. A little time is needed to pack for the upper mountain, and 13,600’ is a great place to get a bit more acclimatization. Plus, Grajales Expeditions, our service provider for the last 30 plus years, is feeding them too much good food.

Team ready to head up the Relinchos River on Aconcagua (Nickel Wood)
Final 2 hours to base camp on Aconcagua (Nickel Wood)

 

Regardless, their first carry with heavier packs is today, as they head towards C1 at just over 16,000’. Always a big test to see how they’re doing.

One step and one day at a time.

Phil Ershler

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Ouray In Style!

January 12, 2018

Good Form! (Eric Remza)
Good Form! (Eric Remza)
Just a Beaut of a Day (Eric Remza)
Just a Beaut of a Day (Eric Remza)
Eric and Don wrapping up Four days in Ouray (Eric Remza)
Eric and Don wrapping up Four days in Ouray (Eric Remza)

 

IMG Lead Guide Eric Remza has been busy in the Ouray Ice Park where conditions have been absolutely perfect. Eric reported good ice forming up and a couple of dustings of snow the last few days. Good temps and great ice make for a heck of an experience. Apparently good enough for Don, Eric’s climber, to send his first WI5 route in good style! Congratulations Don!

We’ll be guiding in Ouray as long as the ice lasts. If you’re looking to improve your technical skills, or just get out and have the most fun day of your life, book your trip!

Robert Jantzen

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Ecuador Team Heads to Antisana

January 12, 2018

Antisana (Phil Ershler)

Antisana (Phil Ershler)

 

Emily texted this morning early, saying the team was packed up and heading to camp on Antisana.  She checked in again once there saying the weather was clear but a tad breezy.  Clouded over a bit in the afternoon with light rain.  That’s more the exception than the rule in Ecuador.  Let’s see what tonight brings.

Antisana is a beautiful peak.  Maybe even the prettiest of the Ecuador volcanoes.  The tricky part from a climbing standpoint is a large ‘schrund which pretty much encircles the mountain just short of the summit.  It can be tough to find a way over/around/through that thing.  Fingers crossed, as always, for the team.

Phil Ershler

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Aconcagua Team Settles into Basecamp

January 12, 2018

Above the Relinchos River with Aconcagua and Ameghino in the Distance (Peter Bilodeau)

Above the Relinchos River with Aconcagua and Ameghino in the Distance (Peter Bilodeau)

Quick call via sat phone just came in from our team on Aconcagua.  Everyone’s at base camp, tents are up. Everyone’s doing well and Grajales Expeditions (our service provider) is doing all the cooking.  Nice.  Rest day tomorrow before the first carry to C1.  Still a little precip in the forecast through Sunday but that should work out just fine.

Phil Ershler

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