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Aconcagua Team 4 Departs Civilization

January 31, 2018

 

As Clean as They're Going to Look (Luke Reilly)

As Clean as They’re Going to Look (Luke Reilly)

 

Luke, Jay, Martin and team started walking today.  Pampas Lenas by this evening.  The 3 day approach to base is pretty much perfect from an acclimatization standpoint.  Mules carry all the gear so each member has basically a day pack to carry at this stage of the trip.  Packs get heavier above base camp.  Terrain is not super steep and the elevation gain is gradual.  Just what’s needed to work out the kinks and starting making more red blood cells.

Phil Ershler

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Aconcagua Team 4 Pulls out of Mendoza

January 30, 2018

Dinner in Mendoza (Luke Reilly)

Dinner in Mendoza (Luke Reilly)

 

The team left Mendoza this morning, heading to Penitentes.  It’s a 3-4 hr drive to where the trail begins.  They’ll make final gear decisions and sort loads for the mules.  Then it’s one more sit down dinner and a final night (for a while) in a bed.  The walking starts tomorrow morning.

Phil Ershler

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2018 Everest Update

January 29, 2018

Fixed line Training in Phortse (Phunuru Sherpa)
Practicing their V-threads. We use V-threads on the Lhotse Face to anchor the fixed line to the mountain. (Phunuru Sherpa)
Phunuru Sherpa with some recent graduates (Phunuru Sherpa)
Phunuru looking at gear from training (Phunuru Sherpa)

We heard from IMG Senior Guide Phunuru Sherpa this morning.  Phunuru and our Sherpa Team just finished up their annual training in Phortse at the Khumbu Climbing School.  He reports that “like all other years, the training this year went smooth!”  Good to hear.  Looking at the photos of the training, it looks like the Sherpa enjoyed beautiful weather and some fantastic ice!  All of our IMG Sherpa climbers have attended this training over the years.  We are proud to say that we are employing more than 70 of them for Mount Everest and Lhotse.  Nice job you guys!

Phunuru has also received word from up the valley, on Mount Everest.  The Winter Expedition that is currently climbing has reported the Icefall in great condition.  The route through the Icefall is very direct with only 10 ladders right now and is slightly to the right of center.  This is also good to hear because we like keeping the route away from the West Shoulder of Mount Everest.

Phunuru will be working with our Spring teams on Mount Everest and Lhotse before heading over to Tanzania this summer for a few trips up Kilimanjaro.

All is well in the Khumbu Valley!

Greg Vernovage

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Mexico and Aconcagua Trips On Site and Off to a Great Start!

January 29th, 2018

Mexico Team (Charlotte Austin)
Mexico Team (Charlotte Austin)
Always Packing (Nickel Wood)
Always Packing (Nickel Wood)

 

We’ve had a week to catch our breath and now it’s time to get back to talking about how IMG trips are going in the Southern Hemisphere and Mexico.

This will be our final Mexico trip for the season.  IMG Senior Guide, Charlotte Austin, is at the helm of this final trip and they’re already off and running.  Charlotte and everyone arrived without issue AND with all their luggage.  We love saying that.  That was on Saturday.  They left yesterday for the town of Amecameca and an acclimatization hike in the area of Cortez Pass, near the first objective —- Ixtacciuatl.  The acclimatization process continues today with a carry up to high camp.  Good to get some food/fuel/water up to there to lighten the load when they move up tomorrow.  Plus, it’s the perfect way to spend another acclimatization day.  Team will spend tonight at the Altzimoni Hut, right near the pass.  Trying to get in as much acclimatization time as possible.  Team is doing well and, as we often say – so far, so good.

Very similar report from Team 4 on Aconcagua.  IMG guides Luke Reilly, Jay Lyons and Leandro Villegas are together with their team in Mendoza.  Again, NO lost luggage issues – hooray!  The guides cranked yesterday and finished food shopping/packing, today’s project is to do final individual gear checks and secure their permits for climbing Aconcagua.  They head out tomorrow for Penitentes where they’ll be making up mule loads and having one last hotel night before beginning their 3 day approach to base camp.

Phil Ershler

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Ouray Veterans Participate in Another Banner Trip Climbing Ice

January 29th, 2018

Ouray Ice in Great Shape for our Ouray Veteran's Seminar (Eric Remza)
Ouray Ice in Great Shape for our Ouray Veteran’s Seminar (Eric Remza)
Getting Technical on Some Fun-In-The-Sun Dry Tooling (Eric Remza)
Getting Technical on Some Fun-In-The-Sun Dry Tooling (Eric Remza)

 

IMG Lead guide Eric Remza shared a couple of pictures from the Ice Park of another awesome Veteran’s Program held last week.

Every ice season, our guides look forward to this program, and as usual a good time was had by all. We had an all-star group of guides on hand including lead guides Justin Merle, Sondra Ripperger, Andy Polloczek, Eric Remza and Jonathan Schrock. You can’t find a better set of guides anywhere! One of the great parts of running this program each year are the climbers that return year after year to join in on the fun. A number of the participants have returned to this program over 10 years in a row! IMG also welcomed a number of fresh faces this year; thanks for the stoke!

The 2018 ice season continues to be in full swing with programs in Ouray, Colorado and North Conway, New Hampshire running at full tilt. Inspired to swing some tools? Book a program and join in on the fun!

Robert Jantzen

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Full Circle: Elizabeth Hawley Passes

January 26th, 2018

Liz Hawley and Her Trusty VW (Eric Simonson)

Liz Hawley and Her Trusty VW (Eric Simonson)

I met Liz in 1979 on my first Himalayan Expedition and she wanted to know everything about what happened.  Since then, I met her dozens and dozens of times in Kathmandu, as I traveled back and forth to Nepal over the years with our climbing teams.  Ever the journalist, Liz was all business in terms of recording expedition details.  When that was done, though, we appreciated that she would open up a bit and allow some talk of the other mountaineering issues of the day.  I was always relieved to know that somebody was paying attention to what climbers were doing, and claiming to be doing.  Facts matter, and Liz was all about the facts.  Nowadays when everyone is their own reporter and they can tell any story they want on the internet, it’s good to know that the legacy of truthful reporting that Liz put in place continues.  Best wishes to Billi Bierling, Richard Salisbury, Jeevan Shrestha, and Rodolphe Popier for all the great work they have done bringing Liz’s Himalayan Database to the world.   From the old days of paper forms and tables completed in pencil, the Himalayan Database now accessible online.  It was her life’s work and she lived to see it come full circle. We’ll miss her.

Eric Simonson

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2019 Everest Dates Released; 2018 Prices Until May 1

January 25, 2018
The views of Everest & the Khumbu Glacier are breathtakingfrom the summit of Kala Pattar. (Tye Chapman)

The views of Everest & the Khumbu Glacier are breathtaking from Kala Pattar. (Tye Chapman)

While the 2018 Everest Expedition hasn’t officially began, we’re happy to report that we’ve already had some strong interest in our 2019 Everest Programs!

The dates are set, but it looks like prices will be going up for the Spring 2019 Everest programs (Everest, Lhotse, Lobuche, EBC Treks). There’s just no way around it. The good news is that for climbers and trekkers who are ready to sign up for 2019 Everest programs, we will be extending the current 2018 prices until May 1, 2018.

Take a look at the dates for our 2019 Everest Programs and give it some thought. Drop us a line if you’re interested!

Tye Chapman
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Time to Head Home

January 22nd, 2018

Heading for the Barn (Peter Bilodeau)
Heading for the Barn (Peter Bilodeau)
Plaza Mulas (Peter Bilodeau)
Plaza Mulas (Peter Bilodeau)

Nickel, Rikki, Martin and crew are at Plaza Mulas, base camp on the Horcones Valley side of Aconcagua.  The summit and traverse are complete and they are down.  Living is large at this lower altitude with Grajales Expeditions, our service provider on Aconcagua (and long term friends) are doing all the cooking.  Life is good.

They’ll do some serious gear sorting and readying loads for the mules.  Tomorrow is the walk out to the road with light packs.  Another ‘gear shuffle’ in Penitentes and then the ride back to Mendoza.  It’ll be a long one tomorrow but no one cares.  These horses are heading for the barn.

We’ll call it a wrap for this expedition.  A safe, successful and fun expedition.  Everyone did their part and gave it all they had.  By any measure, that’s success.

Team 4 finalizes prep in Seattle this week and then meets up in Mendoza this weekend.  Luke Reilly, fresh from a successful Vinson expedition, Jay Lyons and Leandro Villegas will be meeting their team of IMG climbers in Mendoza.

One more time – congratulations to all the climbers and guides on this trip.  Just another great job.

Phil Ershler

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It’s Ice Climbing Season in New England!

January 22nd, 2018

Joe M. Following Up the Route, Willie's Slide (Craig John)
Joe M. Following Up the Route, Willie’s Slide (Craig John)
Craig Starting Up the Ice, Willie's Slide (Joe M.)
Craig Starting Up the Ice, Willie’s Slide (Joe M.)

Our programs are operating out of the Mt. Washington area and in full swing now.

Lead guide Craig John shared some photos taken on Willie’s Slide on Mt. Washington last weekend. A nice long, moderate ice route with great training along the way. Not a bad way to spend a winter’s day!

George Dunn

 

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Aconcagua Team Summits!

January 21, 2018

Just what we wanted (and expected) to hear: the team had a safe and successful climb today. They are all back at high camp. Weather held, and they put one foot in front of the other and got the job done. What can you say except, Congratulations.

View from the top (Peter Bilodeau)

 

As you’ve often read in the IMG posts, Aconcagua is a very physical climb. One of the more demanding. Deceptive because there really are no technical difficulties, but make no mistake, 23,000’ is high. Couple that with two weeks on the mountain, and the cold, windy weather for which Aconcagua is famous, and it all adds up to a real test of a climber’s strength, endurance and just plain old willingness to hurt.

Everyone made good decisions and kept in mind our three priorities: safety, success and enjoyment. This team did well.

Phil Ershler

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