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Moving Forward for Our Aconcagua and Ecuador Teams

January 11th, 2018

The End of a Long Climbing Day (Emily Johnston)
The End of a Long Climbing Day (Emily Johnston)
Casa Piedra (Peter Bilodeau)
Casa Piedra (Peter Bilodeau)

 

Fun, fairly straightforward days for our groups in Ecuador and on Aconcagua.  After a night at the thermal baths of Papallacta, the Ecuador team did a little prepping and a little shopping and headed towards Guaytara for the night.  It’s close to Antisana and puts the team in position to head to camp on Antisana tomorrow.

In Argentina, the Aconcagua team put in a good Day 2, as they continued their approach and are now settled in at Casa Piedra for the night.  A little precip but not bad.  Base camp is the objective for tomorrow, at about 13,600 ft.

Phil Ershler

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Weather Has Been Good to the Vinson Team

January 11th, 2018

Twin Otter at Union Glacier (Greg Vernovage)

Twin Otter at Union Glacier (Greg Vernovage)

Let’s get caught up with the team on Vinson.  Everyone understands that flying to the interior of Antarctica can be problematic, at best.  2000 miles (more or less), land on hard ice in an IL 76, then fly another hour in a ski-equipped Twin Otter to Vinson base camp.  What could possibly go wrong?  In the case of our current team —— NOTHING.  Took off exactly on schedule from Punta Arenas, Chile and 6 HOURS LATER were putting up their tents at Vinson base camp.  No way we can do better than that!

Team carried to C1, near 10,000 ft yesterday.  Weather is still good, so they made their move up to C1 today.  Forecast remains favorable.  Doesn’t get much better, currently, than this.

Phil Ershler

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Aconcagua Team 3 is on the Move

January 10, 2018

The Team is Ready To Walk! (Nickel Wood)

The Team is Ready To Walk! (Nickel Wood)

 

Word from Nickel, Rikki, Martin and their team is that day one of their approach is now complete.  There’s ‘moisture’ in the area but the group got day one in without getting wet.  That said, they’re expecting some rain tonight and have all the tents up at Pampas Lenas.  Looks like the possibility of precip remains in the area until Sunday.  Perfect.  That’s the day they’ll make their carry to C1.

Phil Ershler

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Train for Your Next Expedition with IMG’s Denali Seminar

January 10, 2018

Hauling Sleds in Good Weather
Hauling Sleds in Good Weather
Checking Camp after a Typical Nights Snowfall
Checking Camp after a Typical Nights Snowfall
Winter Sunrise over Little Tahoma
Winter Sunrise over Little Tahoma
Learning Snow Anchor Basics in the Field
Learning Snow Anchor Basics in the Field

 

Have your sights set on a big trip this year?  Denali, Everest, Elbrus, and Rainier seasons are right around the corner.  At IMG, we offer the best possible training to set you up for success – The Denali Prep Seminar.

Denali Prep Seminar Details and Itinerary

Each year, we take climbers onto Rainier for 6 days in the middle of winter and let the mountain do its job. This program exposes climbers to the weather and work that it takes to make it on a big climb.  As weather systems roll through and the team work their way higher on the mountain, the terrain on Rainier provides the best training to learn the critical skills that turn big dreams into realities. We focus on skills such as bombproof camp set up and maintenance, navigation training, sled hauling, anchor building, crevasse rescue training, fixed line work, avalanche science/rescue, and a whole lot more. If your sights are on Denali, or any other big peak, this is a “must have” experience.

Denali not in your plans this year? No worries! This program is an excellent fit for anyone interested in learning more about winter mountaineering and all the tools that go into it.  Build your skill set with the best guides in the world, then go for your dream mountain!

Available 2018 Dates:

February 10-16

February 24 – March 2

March 10-16 (Full)

March 24-30

April 7-13

April 21-27

 

Robert Jantzen

 

 

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Strategic Retreat for Ecuador Team

January 10th, 2018

Cayambe (Phil Ershler)

Cayambe (Phil Ershler)

The biggest problem of late in Ecuador is ‘lack’ of snow.  This morning, it was the opposite for Emily, Romulo and team.  Too much snow.  Snowed and blew all night, not the best of combinations.  The Team headed up regardless and fought their way up to just over 18000 ft.  Significant hard slab over fluff and getting more loaded by the minute.  Classic slab conditions.  Sliding surface, weak (fluffy) layer and then a slab perched on top gets scary fast.  Add being on slopes (or under slopes) in the 25-45 degree range and THEN be there during or right after a storm – really bad combination.  Discretion, as they say, is the better part of valor.

A strategic retreat was the order of the day.  Good attempt and smart decision to back off before it was too late.  The Team is packing up at the hut and getting ready to head to the hot springs in Papallacta.  They’ll lick their wounds, regroup and get prepped for an attempt on Antisana over the next couple of days.

Phil Ershler

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Getting Ready to Summit Cayambe

January 9th, 2018

Route Finding on Cayambe (Phil Ershler)

Route Finding on Cayambe (Phil Ershler)

Quick update from Ecuador —— the team spent last night and all of today at the Cayambe hut.  More acclimatization was the order of the day, along with some technique review.  Tonight’s a short one at the hut because the team will be getting up around midnight to take a shot at the summit.  19000 ft is always a challenge so let’s keep our fingers crossed for good weather.  Tough enough when the weather’s good.

Phil Ershler

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On Their Way and Right on Time

January 9th, 2018

IL76 at the Airport in Punta Arenas, Chile (Greg Vernovage)

IL76 at the Airport in Punta Arenas, Chile (Greg Vernovage)

Greg got off one last email before heading to the airport in Punta Arenas this morning.  It’s a GO!  On their way and right on time.

“We got the call that it is time to go!  One last shower to wake up and down to the lobby to catch a ride to the airport for our flight to Union Glacier.  This is great news, we are still on schedule and will be looking forward to getting to the ice and checking the possibility of hoping the next flight on the twin otter over to Vinson Base Camp.

This Team is great!  Packing, weighing and loading has been a team effort and everyone is pitching in.  Once we are on the mountain, it is important that everyone look after each other and pitch in when the it’s comes to work around camp.  When everyone works as a team, the climb is fun and easier for everyone.”   Greg Vernovage

Phil Ershler

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Getting Ready for Base Camp

January 9, 2018

The Crew (Nickel Wood)

The Crew (Nickel Wood)

Rained like crazy in Mendoza last night.  Very odd.  Good news is that the team had no problem this morning and made the drive up to Penitentes.  One night will be spent there getting loads ready for the mules and enjoying one last hotel night.  Tomorrow, the 3 day hike to base camp begins.  Mules carry all the heavy stuff, leaving team members able to enjoy the walk carrying only light packs.  That’s a good thing.  It’s a way to acclimate.

No problems on Aconcagua.

Phil Ershler

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Aconcagua Team 3 Ready for Action

January 8, 2018

IMG Guide Martin Lucero with Permits ‘Almost in Hand’ (Rikki Dunn)

IMG Guide Martin Lucero with Permits ‘Almost in Hand’ (Rikki Dunn)

 

It’s busy season in South America still.  One Mexico, one Ecuador, one Vinson, one Patagonia trek and two Aconcagua trips have already been completed BUT one MORE Mexico, one Ecuador, one Vinson, one Patagonia trek and three Aconcagua trips still remain.  Busy is a good thing.

So, we wanted to check in with Team 3 on Aconcagua, led by Nickel Wood and assisted by Martin Lucero and Rikki Dunn.  Guides arrived early and shopped/packed food and gear.  The climber team all arrived by 7 January.  Climbers have been getting over their jet lag, going through gear checks, out shopping for a few more ‘snacks’ for the trail and generally enjoying the city of Mendoza.  Big team dinner tonight.  Oh yeah, there’s always that issue of securing permits.  As Nickel emailed today – “climbers and gear are accounted for and permits are secured.”

Bottom line – all the big preliminary details have been taken care of and team is ready to head out tomorrow for Penitentes.  I’ll try to squeeze a team photo out of them for tomorrow.

Phil Ershler

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Vinson Team 2 – Prepped and ready to go!

January 8, 2017

Locked and almost Loaded (Greg Vernovage)
Locked and almost Loaded (Greg Vernovage)
Vinson Team 2 (Greg Vernovage)
Vinson Team 2 (Greg Vernovage)

 

Time to report on Vinson Massif again.  Team 2 is in Punta and about ready to fly.  Here’s today’s report from Greg Vernovage, Expedition Leader.  Greg will be assisted by IMG Senior Guide, Luke Reilly.

“Phil,

The Vinson Team has now arrived with all of their gear to Punta Arenas.  We finished our gear checks and re-packed for the flight to Union Glacier.  This morning we sent the gear to the IL76 for loading and took a walk around town.  The weather has been great!  No wind and beautiful sunsets. 

After lunch, the Team walked over to the center of the city and rubbed the famous toe at the Magellan Statue.  This evening we will head over for the flight briefing and get our call time for flying in the morning.

There is a lot of hurry up, wait, pack and re-pack at the beginning of this trip.  It is all worth it once we land on the Ice, the door opens and we start climbing in Antarctica!  -Greg”

Phil Ershler

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