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IMG Denali Teams Taking Advantage of the Weather

May 25, 2026

Well the sun has finally made an appearance on the High One, and all IMG Denali teams are taking advantage of the good weather.

The view from the Fixed Lines, heading to 17K (Peter Dale)

Fixed Lines, heading to 17K (Peter Dale)

IMGD Team 1 back-carried to retrieve their cache at 13,500′ yesterday. Today, they are going to attempt to carry and cache gear up to 16,200′ today. This cache spot is at the top of the fixed lines and is a big milestone in the teams’ progress towards the summit!

IMGD Team 2 made it to 11k camp yesterday and are back-carrying to retrieve their cache at 10,000′ today. Depending on the weather, the team will either rest tomorrow or make another carry to 13,500′.

View from Motorcycle hill looking back to 11000′ camp. (Eric Simonson)

IMGD Team 3 is making their move to 11k camp today!

IMGD Team 4 reached Talkeetna today. They are briefing with the NPS and putting the finishing touches on their pack out today! Fingers are crossed the weather stays friendly for them to fly to the Kahiltna tomorrow.

We have a lull in the action this week before our next two teams depart in early June.

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Team 2 to the Mountain!

May 22, 2026

Team 1 is still waiting at 11K Camp, with everything ready to go for the moment they can climb higher on the mountain and reach 14K Camp.

After four days of waiting, Team 2 boarded the plane to the Kahiltna Glacier! They’re currently en route to Ski Hill Camp, and will hopefully begin carrying to 10K tomorrow morning if the weather continues to hold at lower elevations.

Team 3 is waiting for their own window onto the mountain, so we’re keeping our fingers crossed it opens up again soon!

IMGD Team 2 duffle bags ready to go! (Izzy Holmes)

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Team 3 to Talkeetna!

May 21, 2026

After a blustery day yesterday, and a continuation of that weather into today, Team 1 is still waiting at 11K Camp before they can progress to 14K Camp. The climb from 11K to 14K Camps is where the expedition starts to hit a steeper elevation gain, so waiting for the right weather window is a necessary pause.

Team 2 has now been joined in Talkeetna by Team 3, led by Timm Phillips! After a successful gear check and good night of sleep yesterday in Anchorage, they’re ready to go as soon as the conditions open up to let flights onto the mountain. We look forward to updates and photos in the meantime!

Team 2 waiting to Fly! (Izzy Holmes)

IMG guides prep gear in Talkeetna

IMGD guides Clara Coffey and Clement Gurrey prep gear in Talkeetna (Angie Diana)

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Rest Days for All

May 19, 2026
After a travel day to 11,000′ Camp yesterday, Team 1 is taking a well-deserved rest. Rest days on the mountain can look a lot of different ways, but common activities are card games, watching a pre-downloaded movie or episode of a tv show, or chatting with teammates and strengthening the group bond!
Team 2 still hasn’t hit on a good window to fly onto the mountain, but Talkeetna is a beautiful place to wait. They’re hanging out, eating good food, and waiting for the moment they can get on the plane and head to the glacier to begin their climb!
IMGD Guide, Brad Swanson, sits on the front steps of a log building petting a very content orange cat

IMGD Guide, Brad Swanson, with a Talkeetna local in 2025.

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Progress to 11K Camp

May 18, 2026

After making their first carry of the expedition on Saturday, and taking a rest day due to weather conditions on Sunday, Team 1, lead by Forrest Baldwin, is headed to 11,000 Camp today. This is great progress, and the climbers are looking strong! Keep up the good work, Team 1!

Team 2, lead by Brad Swanson, didn’t have the same luck with weather windows as Team 1, so they’re still waiting in Talkeetna. However, they’re filling their time with gear prep, team bonding, and great pizza, so the time is far from wasted. Our partners at Talkeetna Air Taxi do a great job of prioritizing climber transportation to the mountain, and we know they’ll be on the Kahiltna as soon as possible!

A tower of duffel bags ready to head to Talkeetna

Alpine expedition Jenga (Kevin Alexander)

Team 2 sits at a long table sharing pizza in Talkeetna

A well-fed team is a happy team! (Izzy Holmes)

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Team 1 on the move, Team 2 waits

May 18, 2026

Team 2 waiting to Fly! (Izzy Holmes)

It’s been a busy day here at IMG Denali! Here are the updates from the teams:

Team 1 – Forrest Baldwin, Paal Bredal, Grace Kline, and Grace Coady

After spending all day yesterday at Ski Hill Camp waiting for the weather to clear, the team finally found their break in the action to make their move to 11K Camp (Camp 2). The team had already completed one carry to 10,000′ feet and cached some gear. As the weather allows tomorrow, the team will do what we call a ‘back carry’ and go down to retrieve their cached gear and bring it back to Camp 2. Way to go team putting in forward progress even when the weather doesn’t cooperate.

IMGD Team 2 duffle bags ready to go! (Izzy Holmes)
Kevin Alexander doing a group lesson in Talkeetna (Izzy Holmes)

Team 2 – Brad Swanson, Kevin Alexander, Tyler Nachand, Izzy Holmes

Team 2 is in Talkeetna waiting to fly. After two busy prep days, the team is all packed and ready to go. All that needs to happen now is the weather to cooperate and the air taxi to give them the green light to fly. Until then, they will be waiting patiently in Talkeetna! Fingers crossed that this team can catch one of the later flights tonight. If not, they might be staying an extra night in town. Only time will tell!

Team 3 is meeting at IMG HQ tomorrow to go through their final guide gear and equipment check, and to do their pre-trip briefing with IMG Denali staff.

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Team 1 to Ski Hill Camp

May 15, 2026

After a long day of climbing yesterday with all their gear, Team 1 is taking a well deserved rest day at Ski Hill Camp! Tomorrow they’ll begin carrying to the 10,000 ft cache, the first of several they’ll utilize over the course of the climb for acclimatization and gear management purposes.

Team 2 is getting ready to arrive in Alaska tomorrow morning! Today, guides spent the day making their last double checks and getting everything together to take an early flight tomorrow. We’ll see you soon, Team 2!

IMG Guide Izzy Holmes poses at IMG HQ with a pile of gear

IMG Guide, Izzy Holmes, at our Ashford HQ getting ready to fly to Alaska! (Pam Painter)

A pile of duffles in the back of the IMG van, waiting to head to the airtport

All packed and ready for the flight! (Pam Painter)

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Team 1 to the Kahiltna!

May 14, 2026

IMGD Team 1 Ready to Fly!

A big pile of gear in a tent, waiting to head onto the mountain.

All The Gear (Audrey Simonson)

Clear Day in Talkeetna

Clear Day in Talkeetna (Audrey Simonson)

After a long day of gear packing and repacking, Team 1 was able to enjoy a lovely dinner at Denali Brew Pub in Talkeetna last night before getting a restful night’s sleep for their big day today! We’re happy to report that Team 1 was able to successfully fly to Kahiltna Base Camp this morning. They were the first climbing team out of the gate and had the perfect weather window for their flights!
After reaching Kahiltna Base Camp this morning, Team 1 saddled up and started their journey up the Kahiltna Glacier. Tonight they will reach Camp 1, also known as ‘Ski Hill Camp’, which is situated about 7800 feet. On the menu tonight is tortellini for dinner!
Weather permitting, Team 1 will do their first ‘carry’ of climbing gear to about 10,000 feet, cache it, and then return to Camp 1 for another night.
IMG Denali couldn’t be happier to kick off another Alaska season on a good note!
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The Denali/McKinley Season has Begun!

May 13, 2026

IMG Denali Team 1 led by Forrest Baldwin is off to Talkeetna today! After a productive day of food shopping and gear checks yesterday the team is fully outfitted with the gear they need for the expedition. Today, the team will check in with the National Park Service and put the final touches on their climbing gear. Fingers crossed for a weather window tomorrow for the team to fly onto the Kahiltna Glacier!

Team 1 arrives at the Anchorage Hotel

Team 1 arrives at the Anchorage Hotel. Photo: Audrey Simonson

Team 1 conducts their gear check, led by Lead Guide Forrest Baldwin.

Team 1 conducts their gear check, led by Lead Guide Forrest Baldwin. Photo: Audrey Simonson

Team 1 poses together for their first group photo!

Team 1 poses together for their first group photo! Photo: Audrey Simonson

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First 2026 Season Summit of Mount Rainier!

May 13, 2026

Congratulations to our first summit team of the season! It’s so good to be back up on upper Mount Rainier with views for miles and memories to last a lifetime. Thanks for all your hard work, team!

The first summit team of the season smile from the top of Mount Rainier.
Photo Credit: Brad Swanson

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