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A fun weekend at the Mt Washington Valley Ice Fest in New Hampshire

February 9, 2018

Audrey Simonson gets a first taste of New Hampshire ice climbing (Eric Simonson)
Audrey Simonson gets a first taste of New Hampshire ice climbing (Eric Simonson)
IMG guide Craig John getting ready to lead out from the belay (Eric Simonson)
IMG guide Craig John getting ready to lead out from the belay (Eric Simonson)
Audrey Simonson, George Malpass, Eric Simonson, Mike Thompson, Craig John, and Scott Williamson hanging out at the IME shop in North Conway (Mike Thompson)
Audrey Simonson, George Malpass, Eric Simonson, Mike Thompson, Craig John, and Scott Williamson hanging out at the IME shop in North Conway (Mike Thompson)
IMG guide Dan Riethmuller putting in a V-Thread anchor (Eric Simonson)
IMG guide Dan Riethmuller putting in a V-Thread anchor (Eric Simonson)

 

This past weekend was the 25th Annual Ice Fest in North Conway, NH and I was fortunate to have the chance to travel from Washington State and do some ice climbing.  It started with a swing by Holderness School to pick up daughter Audrey, who is a senior.  Then, we headed over to North Conway to link up with IMG guides Craig John and Dan Riethmuller for a fun weekend of ice climbing and general festivities.  It was great to see my old friend Rick Wilcox again at his IME shop in North Conway.  Rick and I climbed Mt Everest the same day (5/15/91) with Rick coming up from the South and me (and George Dunn) from the North.  We also ran into Mike, Scott, and George who summited Rainier with Craig, Audrey, and me last year.  This was my first time ice climbing back east, and Audrey’s first time ever (other than the Kautz Route on Rainier). We had a blast!  It was cold (glad we brought big down parkas) and wintery and there was ice everywhere.  For me it was very memorable to see the famous Cathedral and Whitehorse Ledges (cliffs).  These crags are iconic, some of the most famous in American climbing history, and the home of some of our best climbers.  Add a Super Bowl party at the Nereledge Inn (thanks, Steve) and it was a 5-star weekend!  It’s always fun to go to a new place, and when you can do it with some old and new friends, so much the better.  One more tick off my bucket list!

Eric Simonson

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Happy Trekkers In The Silence Valley

February 8, 2018

Hiking along the Ascencio River. (Tye Chapman)

“Another great day in Patagonia”, is what IMG Senior Guide reported when he called in this afternoon. The team got an early start from Refugio Chileno this morning and made their way into the Silence Valley. Once past the ranger station / permit checkpoint the trail takes them through a boulder field and then into a dense Lenga tree forest and along the Ascencio River.  The weather wasn’t cooperating (rain & snow) so the team opted to call Japanese Camp, a climber’s camp along the river, their turn around point.

Once back down to Refugio Chileno, they dried out a bit and had some lunch. The clouds eventually broke putting smiles on everybody’s faces. After lunch they made their way down to Refugio Torres Central for the night.  A couple years ago a puma was sighted just outside this refugio. Seriously.

Tomorrow they’ll make their way along Lago Nordenskjold over to Refugio Los Cuernos, one of my favorite areas of the park.

Despite the less than ideal weather todya, Dustin said this crew is all smiles.

All is well in Torres del Paine National Park!

Tye Chapman

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Aconcagua Teams on the Move

February 7th, 2018

Big Mountain (Peter Bilodeau)

Big Mountain (Peter Bilodeau)

 

All is well on Aconcagua.  Luke and team have made their move up to C2.  Weather is reasonably good and members are doing well.  First night at the new altitude is always a little ‘tough’ and the team will either make a carry to high camp tomorrow or take a rest day at C2, depending how everyone’s feeling.  We have a few contingency days available on the schedule and those days get used for rest or weather as needed.

Eric and team had their first day of walking today.  Team is supported by mules the first three days so their packs are light going into base camp.  All is well lower on the mountain, too.

Phil Ershler

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Four Seasons In Two Hours = Patagonia

February 7, 2018

Los Torres socked in by some clouds. (Tye Chapman)

IMG Senior Guide Dustin Balderach checked in from Refugio Chileno in Torres del Paine National Park this afternoon reporting that he and his team “had a great day today”. They got a nice early start from Puerto Natales which put them on the trail about 10:30am.  Once on the trail they made their way up to Refugio Chileno where they had lunch and cached the bulk of their gear, before heading up to see Los Torres (AKA – The Towers).

From Refugio Chileno it’s about 2 hours up the trail to Los Torres. In those two hours, Dustin said they experienced all 4 seasons! It started out with rain (we’ll call this spring), then the wind picked up and it got colder (fall) and then the rain turned to snow (winter). Eventually the sun trumped everything giving the team a peakaboo view of the towers!

Once back down at Refugio Chileno, the team toasted a great day in Chilean Patagonia with cold beer and a hot meal. On the menu tonight, soup, salad and chicken & potatoes.

Tomorrow, the team will make their way up into the Silence Valley where they’ll likely be the only trekkers.  It takes a special permit to get into the Silence Valley, so it’s quite common have the valley to ourselves, and maybe a few rock climbers.

All is well in Patagonia!

Tye Chapman

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More Everest Preparations Underway In Kathmandu

February 7, 2018

A look at the guys packing propane tanks in closed-cell foam (Ang Jangbu)
Oxygen bottles before being packaged (Ang Jangbu)
The guys wrapping O2 bottles in closed-cell foam (Ang Jangbu)

Kaji sizing up a few of the generators (Ang Jangbu)
A load is finished when it’s wrapped in a rice bag (Ang Jangbu)
Gear ready for transport (Ang Jangbu)

 

The Team in Kathmandu is in full swing, packing for our 2018 Everest Expedition!  Jangbu sent a few photos and reports that IMG Senior Sherpa Guides Mingma Dorje and Thunang along with our Chief Expedition Cook, Kaji Sherpa, helped pack gear for our different camps on the mountain. In this shipment to Everest Base Camp is fuel, as well as a few generators and our first load of oxygen.

Here at home, we’re gathering more gear to be packed and shipped to Kathmandu next week.

We are getting closer to the start of the Spring Himalayan Season!

Greg Vernovage

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A Great Day In Chilean Patagonia

February 6, 2018

From: Dustin Balderach
Sent: Tuesday, February 6, 2018 11:55 AM
To: Tye Chapman
Subject: Ready to hike tomorrow

Bike ride photo opp! (Dustin Balderach)
Bike ride photo opp! (Dustin Balderach)
A few members of the team on the tour of the old slaughterhouse. (Dustin Balderach)

Hey Tye.

Great day down here in Puerto Natales. After breakfast, half the group rented bikes and road along the waterfront out to the old slaughterhouse turned museum/swanky hotel for a light lunch and local beer. Everyone really enjoyed walking around the well preserved grounds, nice place! And the food is pretty darn good too!  After the ride back to town, we dropped off the bikes and strolled down to the supermarket to stock up on a few snack items for the trip. All in all, we had a great day exploring this cool little town.

Soon we’ll head down to meet up with our local guide and further discuss tomorrow. Afterwards, we’ll enjoy a nice ‘send-off’ dinner at Don Jorge. The group is super excited to hit the trail tomorrow. With some luck, the skies will be clear and we’ll enjoy some views of the famous Torres del Paine – the national park’s namesake – tomorrow afternoon. We are off!

Dustin

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Final Aconcagua Team 5 Arrives in Mendoza

February 6th, 2018

Dinner in Mendoza (Eric Remza)

Dinner in Mendoza (Eric Remza)

 

Time to introduce our fifth and final Aconcagua expedition team for the season.  Eric Remza, IMG Senior Guide, is at the helm.  He is joined from the US by Anna Hicks, and from Argentina, Leandro Villegas.  The entire team arrived in Mendoza on Sunday with minimal issues.  Only one or two delayed bags.

Final food shopping is complete, permits are in hand and the team is heading today to Penitentes.  Gear gets divided there into ‘mules loads’ and the team begins their three day approach to base camp on Wednesday.  Wish them luck.

Phil Ershler

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Aconcagua Team 4 Settled in at Camp 1

February 5, 2018

Route Above Camp 1 (Peter Bilodeau)

Route Above Camp 1 (Peter Bilodeau)

 

Just a quick update from Luke and team on Aconcagua.  A little precip the last few days but nothing bad.  Certainly not enough to prevent them from making their carry to C1 and making the move today to C1, which is where they are spending the night.  Forecasts call for the precip to pretty much end tomorrow morning and stay dry for the next few days.  They’ll take advantage of that as they can but plan, currently, on making a carry to C2 tomorrow.

All is well on Aconcagua.

Phil Ershler

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Patagonia Trekkers Arrive In Puerto Natales

February 5, 2018

The team sampling the goods at Baguales Cerveceria. (Dustin Balderach)

IMG Senior Guide Dustin Balderach checked in this afternoon reporting that he and his entire team all arrived in Puerto Natales on time, and with their luggage. Nice.  After checking into their hotel they ventured out for a quick bite to eat at the local watering hole/brewpub, Baguales.  After lunch, Dustin and the team knocked out their gear checks. Dinner at La Guanaca will round out a pretty solid start for this crew.

Tomorrow is a free day to explore the walkable, funky and friendly little town that is Puerto Natales.

Tye Chapman

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Aconcagua Team 4 Happy at Base Camp

February 2, 2018

Last Stretch into Basecamp (Nickel Wood)

Last Stretch into Base Camp (Nickel Wood)

 

Two more days of hiking are under their belts which means the team has reached base camp, Plaza Argentina (13,600’).  Weather has been nice and quite warm on the mountain.  Luke, Jay, Martin and team say good-bye to the mules here and they become ‘the mules’ above base camp.  Three progressively higher camps will now be established.  One step at a time will get the job done.

Tomorrow’s a rest day at base camp.  Team also needs a little time to get gear organized for the mountain above.  Nothing gets carried up that the team isn’t pretty sure won’t be needed.  That’s OK as this is what they’ve been planning for, training for.

So far, so good on Aconcagua.

Phil Ershler

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