Photos Coming in from 14 Camp!

June 11, 2025

Yellow tents scattered across snow with Mt. Foraker in the background

A new image from one of our climbers. Conditions at 14 Camp are looking gorgeous! (Phunuru Sherpa)

Teams 3 (Dale) and 4 (Phillips) are en route to 17 Camp today. This photo from one of our climbers just arrived last night, and looks stunning! Once they arrive at 17 Camp, they will hunker down for the night and hope for a continuation of this shining weather for a summit attempt in the coming days. Good luck 3 and 4!

Team 5 (Madison) acclimatizes at 11 Camp with their eye towards 14 Camp in the coming days.

High Hope for a Weather Window

June 10, 2025

A climber at the ‘Edge of the World’ just outside 14K Camp overlooking the Kahiltna Glacier and Mt. Foraker (Sultana). (Audrey Simonson)

Teams 3 (Dale) and 4 (Phillips) are continuing to train and prep at 14 Camp with the intent to be ready to head for the summit as soon as a viable weather window appears.

Team 5 (Madison) has arrived at 11 Camp and will spend the night there. All is well on Denali!

Team 5 Reaches Kahiltna!

June 9, 2025

Team 5 (Madison) on the airfield in Talkeetna

After a long and windy adventure, Teams 1 (Swanson) and 2 (Bond) are finally back on the ground in Washington! All parties flew out from Anchorage on June 7th, with the exception of IMG guide Jackson Hallza, who stayed in Talkeetna to meet up with Team 5 and make a second ascent.

Teams 3 (Dale) and 4 (Phillips) make it up to 14 Camp over the weekend, and are waiting on improved weather to cache their gear up high and hopefully make an attempt on the summit in the coming week.

Team 5 (Madison) flew onto the glacier this morning! Team 5 is a custom climb in collaboration with Garrett Madison from Madison Mountaineering. Garrett Madison summitted Everest for the 15th time just a few weeks ago, and assistant IMG guide Jackson Hallza is returning to the mountain for a 2nd time this season. A small but mighty team, this group is rich with experience.

Ascents and Descents on the Mountain

June 6th, 2025

Denali 2024 photo by Riley Gilson

After a valiant attempt to beat the weather, Teams 1 (Swanson) and 2 (Bond) descended to Skill Hill Camp last night, and are now waiting at the base of the Kahiltna Glacier to fly off the mountain and back to Talkeetna. They are hoping to be back in Anchorage by tomorrow morning.

Teams 3 (Dale) and 4 (Phillips) are carrying to 13 Camp, with plans to ascend to 14 Camp tomorrow. Hopefully the wind stays at a safe speed over the next couple days.

Team 5, led by Garret Madison, has arrived in Anchorage today. This will be the last IMG team of the season, and we can’t wait to track their progress up the mountain!

Bad Weather On The Mountain

June 5, 2025

Fixed Lines, heading to 17K (Peter Dale)

The weather has not been a friend to Teams 1 (Swanson) and 2 (Bond) on this trip. After waiting eight days for a weather window to make a break for 17 Camp and then for the summit, they have both had to make the decision to descend. While this isn’t ever what we hope for when we set out on an expedition, the weather has been particularly poor so far in 2025 and climber safety is always the central consideration in everything we do.

Teams 3 (Dale) and 4 (Phillips) still have a chance at the summit, and are planning to carry to 13 camp tomorrow. This should keep them on track to take advantage of any upcoming breaks in the weather that may hit on the upper mountain in the next week. Team 5 (Madison) arrives in Anchorage tomorrow.

Conditions Continue

June 3, 2025

Looking Southwest from 14K Camp at the inspiring Mt. Foraker (17,398′). Photo by Stu Johnson.

Conditions on the mountain remain the same as they’ve been the past few days, and all teams remain in place. However, there’s good weather in the near future!

Teams 1 and 2 are looking toward later this week for possible summit windows as a temporary ridging weather pattern crosses over southern Alaska. With their gear already cached near high camp, the teams are able to quickly mobilize and move to 17 camp for an attempt on the summit.

This same pattern should allow Teams 3 and 4 to ascend further, and continue their progress up the mountain.

Here’s to wishing them good luck and good weather!

All Remain at Camp

June 2, 2025

Group Kitchen, dinner family style.

All four teams have been blocked by inclement weather for another day. Teams 1 and 2 (Swanson and Bond) remain at 14 Camp where they’ve been hanging out, snacking, and performing general camp maintenance for several days. Team 3 (Dale) is hunkered down at Ski Hill Camp, and Team 4 (Phillips) is doing the same at 10 Camp. Both will use the time well to acclimate, bond as a team, and make plans for the next weather window ascent.

IMGD Teams Are Making Upwards Progress

Morning sun illuminates the clouds while climbers pass Kahiltna Dome on the Lower Kahiltna Glacier (Stu Johnson).

Another day of progress for our four teams on Denali. Team 3 (Dale) and Team 4 Custom (Phillips) will be carrying gear to cache at 9,800 feet today in order to lighten their loads when they move from Ski Hill Camp at 7,600 feet to 11K camp. The day following their move to 11K Camp (weather permitting) they will back-carry, walking down from 11K Camp with mostly empty backpacks to pickup the gear they cached (by burying it in the snow) the day before. Team 1 (Swanson) and Team 2 (Bond) are patiently anticipating improved weather while they rest and recuperate at 14K Camp. With their gear cached, all four teams are in an excellent position to move higher on the mountain as the weather improves. Check back in the coming days to follow everyone’s progress!

IMGD Teams 3 and 4 Are On – Teams 1 and 2 Cache at 16K

May 31st, 2025

: Team 3 led by Peter Dale ready to catch their flight in Talkeetna to the Kahiltna Glacier. (P Dale)

: Custom Team 4 led by Timm Phillips about to board the Otter aircraft – equipped with ski landing gear – at the airport in Talkeetna.

Teams 1 (Swanson) and 2 (Bond) successfully completed a carry day from 14K Camp to a cache spot on 16K Ridge. Now, as a weather system passes over Denali, they are nestled in at 14K Camp, knowing they have set themselves up for success higher on the mountain. Activities during storms involve maintaining camp (lots of shoveling), napping, snacking, and the occasional game of cards! All the while our climbers continue to acclimatize in preparation for better weather and the opportunity to move higher on the mountain. Lower down, Team 3 led by Peter Dale has arrived at Kahiltna International Airport – the only international airport on a glacier! They will begin their ascent in the coming hours once sleds are rigged and snowshoes are strapped, heading towards their first camp at approximately 7,600 feet. Not far behind is our custom climb Team 4 led by Timm Phillips, who will be following close behind Team 3. All is well on Denali – we are eager for better weather to prevail and for our teams to continue moving up the great mountain!

IMGD Teams 1 and 2 at 14K Camp – Teams 3 + 4 Ready in Talkeetna

May 30, 2025

Team 4 stands together in front of the hotel

Teams 1 and 2 are still waiting out weather at 14 Camp. A weather window looks to open up tomorrow, allowing them to carry to 16K Ridge in the morning. Beyond that, current weather patterns will likely keep them from ascending further for a little while longer, but a summit attempt is still in the cards!

Team 3 is also weathered in in Talkeetna today, and waiting for a window to fly onto the Kahiltna Glacier.

Team 4 Custom has joined Team 3 in Talkeetna today.

IMG Denali can arrange custom programs for climbing groups of any size up to 8. Our custom programs are tailored to the groups needs and can be a great way to have a unique experience with a group of friends, family, or coworkers! To inquire about your 2026 custom program, send us an email at: office@mountainguides.com

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