August 8, 2014

From: Greg Vernovage
Sent: Friday, August 08, 2014 7:59 AM
To: Eric Simonson

Eric,
We did it! As always, the icing on the cake is Illimani. We had been looking at the mountain from the first day in LaPaz, to Copacabana and Sun Island, and from the top of Huayna Potosi. Finally, we had the opportunity to test ourselves with this Giant.

We had perfect weather and excellent snow conditions. I have climbed Illimani a number of times and of the many things that are memorable is how cold it can be on our summit push. What keeps me coming back is the fantastic climbing and breathtaking scenery. The headwall to the summit ridge looks steep, and feels even steeper once we are climbing it. Moving slow and steady and pressure breathing are the keys to success. We can handle the cold morning, especially when the sun hits us in the face on the final summit ridge.

Bolivia is a great place to climb, and a perfect test for any climber who is looking to extend themselves and reach new heights just outside their comfort zone. We had a great time and worked hard. Our reward was the summit of our third and last peak of the trip, Illimani. Now we are all back to LaPaz safe and sound, and it’s time to head for home!

Greg Vernovage
International Mountain Guides

August 6, 2014

On the summit ridge of Illimani (Greg Venovage)

IMG guides Greg Vernovage and Luke Reilly called from Base Camp on the sat phone to report a perfect day on Illimani.  Their team left high camp at 2am and was on top at 7:15 am.  Greg said it was very cold and clear, with the climbers wearing all their layers!  After a nice long stay on the summit in the morning sun, they descended to high camp, packed up that camp, and then descended to BC.  Tomorrow, after breakfast, they will hike down to the road, have a BBQ lunch at the trailhead, and then head on back to LaPaz, which they expect to reach by about 4pm.  Well done, team!

Eric Simonson

August 5, 2014

Greg called on the sat phone to say that they had a nice climb today moving up from the 15,000 foot Base Camp to the high camp at Nido de Condores (the Condor’s Nest, at over 18,000 feet). The route conditions are looking excellent, the weather is good, and the team are all doing well. Greg said it was a beautiful and calm evening with the lights of La Paz and Lake Titicaca visible far below. The plan for tomorrow is to make an early pre-dawn start for the summit of the 21, 200 foot peak. Most of the climbing will be on snow and ice, with several steeper pitches along the way which they will fix with ropes. So far, so good!

Eric Simonson

August 4, 2014

Now that the team is well acclimatized from their climbs of Pequeño Alpamayo and Huayna Potosi they are ready to try the higher and more difficult Illimani.  IMG guides Greg, Luke, and their team have now departed LaPaz and are moving today up to Base Camp (about 15,750ft) with some help from the local porters and their mules.  Then, tomorrow, they move to the high camp.  Weather report and conditions are looking good.

Eric Simonson