August 17, 2014

View of training on the glacier with Base Camp and the lake with fresh trout in the background (Roberto Gomez)

Luke just checked in from Base Camp.  The team had a great morning for training on the glacier.  When the team heads out to the glacier to train, they accomplish a lot. The tongue of the glacier is fairly steep. The base of the glacier is set up as a perfect staging point for the climb. Harness up and get the crampons on in the daylight. Ice axes out and rope up. This is a great refresher training ground for what the team has coming up tonight.

I always liked going out to train the day before because we get to see in daylight our objectives for the following night.  Luke and his guide team did just that. The tongue, Luke reports has almost six inches of fresh snow on it! “Perfect cramponing.”

Luke and the team are in great spirits. They are all feeling strong and ready to take on their first challenge.

Early dinner and a short night of sleep! Have a great climb everyone.

Greg Vernovage

August 15, 2014

Alpamayo Base Camp (Greg Vernovage)

Luke just called from Pequeno Alpamayo Base Camp.  The team had a great hike to camp with no issues.  They are in great shape and everyone is feeling good.

Just after the team pulled into camp, the snow started falling.  They have about three inches of new snow on the ground which must make the place look even more amazing!  The falling snow didn’t stop the gang from getting their gear out and setting up the harnesses.  Some fixed line instruction and endless peaks to look at rounded out the day.

Looking up the valley, the team will first see Pico Austria which is where they are planning on taking another acclimatization hike tomorrow.  The hike is to a peak just over 17k.  To the right of Pico Austria is Condoriri.  We look at it and find the best chutes and lines to climb in the future.  Just to the right of Condoriri is Pequeno Alpamayo, up the glacier and poking out over the “first” summit.

The snow on the ground will be good for the route.  The final ridge to the summit of Pequeno Alpamayo was getting a little icy a few weeks ago.  The new snow will make for some great footwork with the crampons!

Greg Vernovage

August 14, 2014

A beautiful view of Huayna Potosi. (Greg Vernovage)

Luke Reilly just checked in from Tambo Condoriri.  This is the teams first camp as they start moving closer to the mountains.  After the typical dirt road drive towards Pequeno Alpamayo Base Camp, the team had a good acclimatization hike today and are relaxing before a home cooked meal.  The Team is doing great and the plan is to pack up and move into Condoriri Base Camp tomorrow.  Tonight, they will enjoy their first night in the tents at about 14,000 feet. They won’t be alone though, the llamas will bed down all around them and help carry their gear tomorrow.  This camp is great, Huayna Potosi’s West Face is great to look at. It is a big mountain and will give the team a little incentive to be acclimatized and train on Pegueno Alpamayo.  As the team sits around the dinner table, sharing some laughs, someone will take a deep breath and say finally, we are going to get ready to go climb now. They have done a good job of taking things slow at the beginning of the trip and staying strong!

Tomorrow is Base Camp and organizing their harnesses and climbing gear!

Greg Vernovage