August 27, 2014

Summit of Illimani. (Luke Reilly)

Luke just called in with great news;  the clouds dissipated overnight and the team stood on top of Illimani (21,200ft.) early this morning.A few puffy clouds lingered but the route was in excellent condition and the team had a great day of climbing.

The team is tired and catching their breath with some soup at High Camp. They will be packed up and heading down to the thicker air shortly. The guide team equally as happy, this is not an easy climb and the route can be very challenging.

Down to Base Camp for some fresh fruit and popcorn. I bet some of them will soak their feet in the cool glacial stream that runs next to camp.

A great job by everyone!

Congratulations!

Greg Vernovage

August 26, 2014

Nido de Condor. High Camp on Illimani. (Luke Reilly)

Luke called in from high camp and all is well. The team had a good climb up the rock ridge to high camp on Illimani today. Everyone is feeling good and preparing for their summit attempt this evening. It was a breezy climb with the summit in a cloud all morning, Luke said, and as they pulled into High Camp, they had some light snow.

Illimani is no “gimme.” As much as any mountain in the world, this peak will not lay down and give itself up. The team is watching the weather and will be ready to go when the bell rings.

It will be a cool night and morning but the previous climbing has prepared them for a good climb.

On Illimani, we like to say “take it step by step and head for the sun.” As the team climbs, they will be in the shadow until the final summit ridge, then the sun will be on them and everything feels that much better.

Luke will be up early to keep an eye on the clouds and when they blow off, they will make their move.

Greg Vernovage

August 25, 2014

Illimani BC (Greg Vernovage)

A very happy IMG Guide Luke Reilly called to check in from Illimani Base Camp. “This is the best day we have had in Bolivia so far!”

Luke was just finishing up a BBQ at Illimani Base Camp.  He reports that the team was taking a siesta after they finished up lunch which consisted of a grilled meat, chorizo and vegetables at about 15,000 ft.  Starting the grill can be no easy task at this elevation.  Between our great cook staff and a few mountain guides, I am sure there was some great arguing about the best way to get it hot enough to cook.

The team decided to use another day down low to insure they were strong enough for the next two days.  Tomorrow, they will leave Base Camp and trek across to the ridge leading to High Camp at 18,000 ft.  It is the first of two strenuous days of climbing.

Base Camp is simply gorgeous.  They will take a short hike to stretch their legs and organize their gear for the summit push.

The team is happy, full and tired…the perfect lead in to a summit attempt!

Greg Vernovage

August 24, 2014

Luke checked in early this morning.  The team had a great day off yesterday.  They are rested and ready to hit the road to Illimani Base Camp.

From the minute the team leaves the hotel, they are heading in a different direction. Lake Titicaca, Pequeno Alpamayo and Huayna Potosi are all uphill from La Paz. Illimani heads down valley. The road weaves up and down and through many small villages.  The team will take the road to its end and meet the donkeys and porters. Once they organize gear, what better than to have a little picnic before heading up to Base Camp!  Illimani Base Camp is set next to a great stream of water directly off the glacier of Illimani. I believe the ground is like a mattress, soft and comfortable for a night or two of sleep.

Tonight, they will see the sun set over the Altiplano the lights glow in La Paz and El Alto. To the North will be Huayna Potosi.

Luke said the team is ready to go!  What does that mean to Luke? He said that he brought all three of his puffy coats and plenty of hand warmers.  It can be a little cool on their summit push, they climb in the shade until the sun hits them on the summit ridge!

Greg Vernovage

—–Original Message—–
From: Luke Reilly
Sent: Friday, August 22, 2014 9:50 AM
To: Tye Chapman; Eric Simonson; Greg Vernovage
Subject: Bolivia Update

Lots of snow and smiles this week in Bolivia. The team is back in la paz now after successful climbs of Pequeno Alpamayo and Huayna Potosi. Route conditions on both mountains were superb this week which helped since the weather has been a little unstable in the mountains lately. The team summitted in near white out conditions on Pequeno Alpamayo hiding the views of the Cordillera Real but the fun climbing on the summit pyramid made up for the lack of visibility. Huayna Potosi was a different story; a calm, clear and cool night afforded great climbing and vistas from the technical summit ridge.

Some are heading home as scheduled while others are resting up and preparing for our next objective…the Illimani extension.

Luke

August 21, 2014

Huayna Potosi summit ridge. (Greg Vernovage)

Luke checked in from Base Camp on Huayna Potosi just now: “All is well with a beautiful summit today!”

Great news for the team!  All according to plan for them.  Luke said there was a little more snow than he had expected on the route but it posed no problems.

The team was climbing by 2am and on the ridge, heading for the summit, by 7am with the sun rising over the jungle to the East and Lake Titicaca to the West as they worked their way up to the summit!

I asked how the temperatures were before the sun came up and Luke said “cold, really really cold.”

Now they are down at Base Camp for the evening.  Some soup and a good night sleep.  Tomorrow, the team will load up the bus and head back to La Paz.

They will celebrate their summit success and say good bye to the Huayna Potosi climbers.  For the Illimani Extension, some laundry and good food before they head back out to get the icing on the cake!

Nice job down there gang!

Greg Vernovage

August 18, 2014

Luke just called in from Base Camp.  All is well and the team stood on top of Pequeno Alpamayo today!  The team had good weather with a few clouds to accompany them. The route to the top is challenging with glacier travel, rock scrambling and fixed line ascension. It keeps everyone interested and on their toes. There is always something new waiting around the corner basically.  Everyone passed the test and they are ready to head over to Huayna Potosi in the morning.

One of my favorite parts of this climb is after returning to Base Camp and having some soup, we debrief the climb, refining techniques and the “why’s” and “what for’s”.  The night will be capped off for the gang when our cook staff come in with dinner. What is on the menu? The team will feast on fresh trout caught out of the lake at Base Camp!

What a reward!  Congratulations to the team!

Greg Vernovage