Bolivia Team To Tackle Huayna Potosi Tomorrow

August 20, 2014

Huayna Potosi. (Greg Vernovage)

Luke checked in from High Camp on Huayna Potosi today and reports that there is good weather and some new snow on the ground from the last storm.

The team is doing great and will have an early dinner of chicken and pasta before they get off their feet and rest.Â Tonight will be the highest elevation the team has slept at so far.Â Much of the time will be spent just laying down and resting.Â It’s tough to go to bed early especially combined with the excitement of climbing Huayna Potosi in the morning.

Luke said that they are planning on waking up at 12:30 and climbing by 2:00 am.Â This will give the team plenty of time to climb and get down before the afternoon clouds and fog roll in.

Everyone is psyched to be at high camp and are all ready to take on the challenge of Huayna Potosi tomorrow!

Greg Vernovage

Hanging At Huayna Potosi Base Camp

August 19, 2014

Greg Vernovage and Luke Reilly with Huayna Potosi in the back. The route runs behind the right hand ridge and comes up the East. We’re not sure why Luke opted to stand on that rock. (Turner Britton)

Luke called in this afternoon with a happy team from Huayna Potosi Base Camp.

The team packed up from Pequeno Alpamayo Base Camp and headed towards the bus to Huayna Potosi. Herding the llamas and walking down to the bus with a summit under their belts is a great feeling. Almost as good as meeting the resupply vehicle loaded with more fresh food and PIZZA for lunch!

Fog is in and out at Huayna today. The team got a few good glimpses of their next objective. An early dinner and a great night sleep in the refugio tonight.

I asked Luke how the spirits of the team are and he said that they are enjoying a few cups of tea and “a James Bond movie.”

Tomorrow, they will hit the trail around 10 am, then walk up hill to the next refugio. There might be a condor sighting if they are lucky.

They are in for another great view in a couple days.

Greg Vernovage

Pequeno Alpamayo Summits!

August 18, 2014

: Rock section with the saddle (Greg Vernovage)

: The final summit ridge (Greg Vernovage)

Luke just called in from Base Camp.Â All is well and the team stood on top of Pequeno Alpamayo today!Â The team had good weather with a few clouds to accompany them. The route to the top is challenging with glacier travel, rock scrambling and fixed line ascension. It keeps everyone interested and on their toes. There is always something new waiting around the corner basically.Â Everyone passed the test and they are ready to head over to Huayna Potosi in the morning.

One of my favorite parts of this climb is after returning to Base Camp and having some soup, we debrief the climb, refining techniques and the “why’s” and “what for’s”.Â The night will be capped off for the gang when our cook staff come in with dinner. What is on the menu? The team will feast on fresh trout caught out of the lake at Base Camp!

What a reward!Â Congratulations to the team!

Greg Vernovage

Set And Ready To Go For Pequeno Alpamayo

August 17, 2014

View of training on the glacier with Base Camp and the lake with fresh trout in the background (Roberto Gomez)

Luke just checked in from Base Camp.Â The team had a great morning for training on the glacier.Â When the team heads out to the glacier to train, they accomplish a lot. The tongue of the glacier is fairly steep. The base of the glacier is set up as a perfect staging point for the climb. Harness up and get the crampons on in the daylight. Ice axes out and rope up. This is a great refresher training ground for what the team has coming up tonight.

I always liked going out to train the day before because we get to see in daylight our objectives for the following night.Â Luke and his guide team did just that. The tongue, Luke reports has almost six inches of fresh snow on it! “Perfect cramponing.”

Luke and the team are in great spirits. They are all feeling strong and ready to take on their first challenge.

Early dinner and a short night of sleep! Have a great climb everyone.

Greg Vernovage

Good Day On Pico Austria

August 16, 2014

Pequeno Alpamayo center back with Condoriri on the left. (Greg Vernovage)

Luke called on a beautiful evening from Base Camp.

The team made it to the top of Pico Austria with light snow on the way. Â On the return to Base Camp, the clouds parted and they could see a little more of a view.

All is well! Â The team took the afternoon organizing their gear and will get to bed early. Â Tomorrow is the hike to the tongue of the glacier. Â From here they will harness up and step into it with both feet and some self arrest training.

They will train in the morning and return for some time to rest.

We are closing in on the first climb now. Â Luke said there is plenty of laughter to go around which means they are taking a few deep breaths for acclimatization.

Greg Vernovage

Glacier Skills Seminar Having Some Fun

August 15, 2014

IMG Lead Guide Dustin Balderach snuck out some photos from the Ingraham Flats on Mt. Rainier this afternoon. Looks like the Glacier Skills Seminar is having a good climb despite the rain earlier in the week.

: Mt. Rainier hidden in the clouds. (Dustin Balderach)

: Glacier travel. (Dustin Balderach)

: Rope work in the weathrport at Camp Muir. (Dustin Balderach)

: Anchor building practice. (Dustin Balderach)

: Crevasse rescue practice. (Dustin Balderach)

: In a big crack. (Dustin Balderach)

Tye Chapman

A Little Snow At Base Camp For Bolivia Climbers

August 15, 2014

Alpamayo Base Camp (Greg Vernovage)

Luke just called from Pequeno Alpamayo Base Camp. Â The team had a great hike to camp with no issues. Â They are in great shape and everyone is feeling good.

Just after the team pulled into camp, the snow started falling.Â They have about three inches of new snow on the ground which must make the place look even more amazing! Â The falling snow didn’t stop the gang from getting their gear out and setting up the harnesses. Â Some fixed line instruction and endless peaks to look at rounded out the day.

Looking up the valley, the team will first see Pico Austria which is where they are planning on taking another acclimatization hike tomorrow. Â The hike is to a peak just over 17k. Â To the right of Pico Austria is Condoriri. Â We look at it and find the best chutes and lines to climb in the future. Â Just to the right of Condoriri is Pequeno Alpamayo, up the glacier and poking out over the “first” summit.

The snow on the ground will be good for the route. Â The final ridge to the summit of Pequeno Alpamayo was getting a little icy a few weeks ago. Â The new snow will make for some great footwork with the crampons!

Greg Vernovage

Camping With The Llamas

August 14, 2014

A beautiful view of Huayna Potosi. (Greg Vernovage)

Luke Reilly just checked in from Tambo Condoriri.Â This is the teams first camp as they start moving closer to the mountains.Â After the typical dirt road drive towards Pequeno Alpamayo Base Camp, the team had a good acclimatization hike today and are relaxing before a home cooked meal.Â The Team is doing great and the plan is to pack up and move into Condoriri Base Camp tomorrow.Â Tonight, they will enjoy their first night in the tents at about 14,000 feet. They won’t be alone though, the llamas will bed down all around them and help carry their gear tomorrow.Â This camp is great, Huayna Potosi’s West Face is great to look at. It is a big mountain and will give the team a little incentive to be acclimatized and train on Pegueno Alpamayo.Â As the team sits around the dinner table, sharing some laughs, someone will take a deep breath and say finally, we are going to get ready to go climb now. They have done a good job of taking things slow at the beginning of the trip and staying strong!

Tomorrow is Base Camp and organizing their harnesses and climbing gear!

Greg Vernovage

Elbrus Team Enjoying Moscow

August 14, 2014

: Taking in the sights!

: Dinner time!

Love it when plans and people come together. A little more sightseeing tomorrow in Moscow and then it’s time to fly.

Not a scratch, hugely successful and a ton of fun. That’s always the goal and this team ran away with it. Nice!

Phil Ershler

A Great Day On Sun Island

August 13, 2014

The team on Sun Island.

Luke just called in from Copacabana where the team had a great day on Sun Island. Â After a calm boat ride,Â the team enjoyed aÂ hike to the top of the island to help acclimatize and take in the views of the mountain range.

After a picnic on the shoreline, and another nightÂ in Copacabana, the team will move up to Tambo Condoriri. The camp is located at 14,000 feet and is a great spot to enjoy theÂ view of the West Face of Huayna Potosi.

Slow and steady, Luke says the team is acclimatizing well and looks strong!

Greg Vernovage