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3 For 3

August 12, 2014

Almost there. (Jonathan Schrock)
Almost there. (Jonathan Schrock)
The team on top! (Jonathan Schrock)
The team on top! (Jonathan Schrock)
The upper mountain. (Jonathan Schrock)
The upper mountain. (Jonathan Schrock)

Here’s the early morning email from Jonathan and our Elbrus team:

We got our weather window and summited at 8:15am this morning in pristine conditions. Everyone did great breaking trail ahead of all the other teams making their push this morning. Lots of stacked up demand for summits after the recent bout of poor weather. We’re back in Terskol for some R&R. Dinner and a few drinks are on the agenda for the evening.

Jonathan

And that’s the way it’s done.  Nice job, Jonathan, Igor, Sasha and team.  Patience is, indeed, a virtue.  We’re super proud of these guys.

Phil Ershler

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Second Bolivia Team Is Off And Walking…Slowly

August 11, 2014

August 2014 Bolivia team in LaPaz (Greg Vernovage)

August 2014 Bolivia team in LaPaz (Greg Vernovage)

When you walk out of the El Alto airport at 13,323′ (4,061 m) it does not take very long to realize that you better move slowly!  LaPaz is a bit lower than the airport, but for the first day or two it is super important to take it slow.  So far the team reports that they are sleeping well and feeling good, which is a great sign of acclimatization and things to come.  Today IMG guide Luke Reilly led the team on an easy walking tour of the city.  The weather was perfect and we had a great time exploring LaPaz.  One of the stops on the tour today was the Witches Market…and one of the questions we always get:  “Do you think a dried llama fetus would make it through customs?”  Answer…..Nope!

Tonight we have the welcome dinner and then tomorrow it’s off to the beach at Copacabana/Lake Titicaca for more acclimatization!

Greg Vernovage

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Elbrus Team To Give It Another Go Tomorrow

August 11, 2014

Elbrus.  West (highest) summit on the left hand side.

Elbrus. West (highest) summit on the left hand side.

Just spoke with Jonathan.  The crew pushed hard today.  At around 17300’, they started to get some electrical activity in the air.  Too uncertain to keep pushing and too dangerous.  Good decision to fight another day.  Back now at high camp, fed and rehydrated and ready to try again in the morning.  No quit in this team.  Weather is forecasted to improve somewhat with winds remaining low.  They go again in the morning.  If they can pull this one off, they will totally have earned the summit.  To quote Fred Beckey, famed Northwest climber: “Sometimes you have to outwait, outrun or outfight the weather”.  Maybe this team’s doing a bit of all three.

Phil Ershler

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Elbrus Team Sits Tight

August 10, 2014

Elbrus.  West (highest) summit on the left hand side.

Elbrus. West (highest) summit on the left hand side.

Good news is that the winds are low.  Bad news is that it’s been snowing with poor visibility.  Faced with those conditions on the team’s first possible summit attempt, the guides decided to sit tight.  They’ve got 3 days to attempt to summit.  The trick, the art, is to hopefully find that window where they can get up with acceptable margins of risk.  Forecast is for the winds to remain low but snow showers to continue.  Keeping our fingers crossed for that little seam when the mountain potentially says yes.  Members up high are feeling good and anxious to go, but smart enough to know that patience is often a virtue.

Phil Ershler

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Illimani Is The Icing On The cake

August 8, 2014

From: Greg Vernovage
Sent: Friday, August 08, 2014 7:59 AM
To: Eric Simonson

Eric,
We did it! As always, the icing on the cake is Illimani. We had been looking at the mountain from the first day in LaPaz, to Copacabana and Sun Island, and from the top of Huayna Potosi. Finally, we had the opportunity to test ourselves with this Giant.

Illimani summit climbers (Greg Vernovage)
The view of the upper part of the route on Illimani (Greg Vernovage)

We had perfect weather and excellent snow conditions. I have climbed Illimani a number of times and of the many things that are memorable is how cold it can be on our summit push. What keeps me coming back is the fantastic climbing and breathtaking scenery. The headwall to the summit ridge looks steep, and feels even steeper once we are climbing it. Moving slow and steady and pressure breathing are the keys to success. We can handle the cold morning, especially when the sun hits us in the face on the final summit ridge.

Bolivia is a great place to climb, and a perfect test for any climber who is looking to extend themselves and reach new heights just outside their comfort zone. We had a great time and worked hard. Our reward was the summit of our third and last peak of the trip, Illimani. Now we are all back to LaPaz safe and sound, and it’s time to head for home!

Greg Vernovage
International Mountain Guides

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Elbrus Team At High Hut

August 8, 2014

Spectacular view from our high hut (Viki Tracey)

Spectacular view from our high hut (Viki Tracey)

Jonathan, Igor, Sasha and team are up at our hut.  VERY nice weather today.  Let’s see if their luck holds.

Tomorrow’s an acclimatization day to the Pastohov Rocks.  Get the last details sorted out, pack, make a few more red blood cells – you get the idea.  Then it’ll be time to ‘pick the shot’. With the Black Sea on one side and the Caspian Sea on the other, weather tends to be a bit unstable in the Caucasus.  They’ve got a couple of days so we’ll wish them the best.

Phil Ershler

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Full Circle On Rainier

August 7, 2014

Eric, Audrey, and Emily share a perfect morning on the summit of Rainier  (Jason Edwards)

Eric, Audrey, and Emily share a perfect morning on the summit of Rainier (Jason Edwards)

When I first climbed Mt Rainier back in 1970, I was 15 years old. Since then I have done it every year, close to 300 times now. Last week I went to the top again, making it 45 years in a row, but this climb marked a different kind of milestone, as I was able to share the climb with my 14 year old daughter Audrey. She did a great job on her first ascent of Rainier, and we stood together on Columbia Crest at 6:30am on July 31. I was proud to watch her deal with the challenges along the way and it helped me remember what it was like 45 years ago for me (I think I suffered a lot more than she did!). What also made this trip special was the fact that I think this was the first time in 42 years that I did not lead a rope team as a guide. Instead, Audrey and I joined six climbers and four IMG guides on one of our 3.5 day climbs, and enjoyed climbing Mt Rainier just for ourselves. Guide Emily Johnston led our rope and, along with our climb leader Jason Edwards and guides Peter Adams and Eric Remza, did a great job, with our entire IMG group reaching Columbia Crest. It was great to just be a dad and go climbing with your kid, relive some memories, and make some new ones!

Eric Simonson

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Illimani Summits

August 6, 2014

On the summit ridge of Illimani (Greg Venovage)

On the summit ridge of Illimani (Greg Venovage)

IMG guides Greg Vernovage and Luke Reilly called from Base Camp on the sat phone to report a perfect day on Illimani.  Their team left high camp at 2am and was on top at 7:15 am.  Greg said it was very cold and clear, with the climbers wearing all their layers!  After a nice long stay on the summit in the morning sun, they descended to high camp, packed up that camp, and then descended to BC.  Tomorrow, after breakfast, they will hike down to the road, have a BBQ lunch at the trailhead, and then head on back to LaPaz, which they expect to reach by about 4pm.  Well done, team!

Eric Simonson

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Elbrus Team Enjoying Some Acclimatization

August 6, 2014

Waterfall on the way to the Observatory. (Photo by Jonathan Schrock)
Waterfall on the way to the Observatory. (Photo by Jonathan Schrock)
Boat ride on the Neva River. (Photo by Jonathan Schrock)
Boat ride on the Neva River. (Photo by Jonathan Schrock)

First full day in the Valley is complete.  It was spent doing their first acclimatization hike up to the Observatory.  It’s about a 3000 vertical foot gain, which is about perfect.  About 2 hours up.  Terskol is at just over 7000 feet so that helps a lot, too.  In bed now with the plan being to head up to the lower slopes of Elbrus tomorrow for a training/review day.  It, of course, also provides additional acclimatization.  ‘Climb high, sleep low’ is still a pretty good mantra to follow when it comes to adapting to altitude.  Team will be back in the Valley again tomorrow night.  All’s good, so far.  Weather is a bit unsettle now but forecast show clearing early next week.  May work out just fine for their summit bid.

Phil Ershler

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Bolivia Climbers Reach The Condor’s Nest On Illimani

August 5, 2014

Illimani from High Camp (Viki Tracey)
Illimani from High Camp (Viki Tracey)
Illimani High Camp (Ryoko Miyazaki)
Illimani High Camp (Ryoko Miyazaki)

Greg called on the sat phone to say that they had a nice climb today moving up from the 15,000 foot Base Camp to the high camp at Nido de Condores (the Condor’s Nest, at over 18,000 feet). The route conditions are looking excellent, the weather is good, and the team are all doing well. Greg said it was a beautiful and calm evening with the lights of La Paz and Lake Titicaca visible far below. The plan for tomorrow is to make an early pre-dawn start for the summit of the 21, 200 foot peak. Most of the climbing will be on snow and ice, with several steeper pitches along the way which they will fix with ropes. So far, so good!

Eric Simonson

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