January 29, 2016

Pico de Orizaba

Josh checked in this morning from Mexico.  The crew took their shot at the summit of Orizaba this morning but came up short.  We had a super tight guide to climber ratio on this trip, just over 1 to 2, but today, with the icy conditions, it wasn’t quite enough.  All our climbers took a shot this morning.  One wasn’t quite feeling it after a couple of hours and returned to the high hut with one of our 3 guides.  Another of our climbers made a similar decision another hour or two higher as the team was just getting on the upper glacier.  It was icy this morning and Josh had to make the tough call.  1 to 5 would only have been a consideration in the most ideal of climbing conditions.  That wasn’t the case today and Josh knew they had to descend together.  That is never an easy decision but it’s the type of difficult decision a guide has to make.  A disappointment, for sure, but everyone’s down with 10 fingers, 10 toes and in one piece.  They’re spending tonight at the Reyes compound in Tlachichuca and returning to Mexico City in the morning.

On Aconcagua, Jonathan and team pushed hard in spite of wind and new snow and got into C2.  What a weather year on Aconcagua!  This was a big move for the team as there’s a lull in the winds forecasted for early next week and the team’s trying to get into position to take advantage, if it occurs.  Everyone’s doing well and the chess game continues.

Phil Ershler

January 25, 2016

It was a carry day yesterday to C1 for Jonathan Schrock and team on Aconcagua. Rest day at base camp today and hopefully moving up to C1 tomorrow.

For Josh McDowell and team in Mexico, it was an acclimatization hike around the area of Paseo de Cortez.

Today they make a carry to high camp on Ixta, returning to Cortez Pass this afternoon and the night spent at the Altzimoni Hut. They’ll move up to high camp tomorrow. Nearby Popo is still smoking after all these years since becoming active again and effectively ending climbing there many years ago.

Phil Ershler