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Ecuador Team Summits Cayambe

January 13, 2016

Luke and a couple members of the Cayambe summit team.

Luke and a couple members of the Cayambe summit team.

The call came in this morning from Luke to let us know they’d had a successful summit of Cayambe this morning.  Weather was pretty ‘misty’ yesterday but cleared off last night, enabling the team to summit.  Well done.  They’re already down, packed and on their way out, heading for the hot springs of Papallacta.  They’ll spend the night there and then start thinking about #2 — Antisana.

Josh McDowell let me know that their team will be getting together for a final dinner tonight and then everyone will be heading their separate ways.  Weather was tough and left no opportunity to even attempt the summit.  Bummed but happy to be safe and enjoying everyone’s company in Mendoza.

Phil Ershler

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A Few Updates From The Southern Hemisphere

January 12, 2016

Luke’s team on the top of Imbabura.

Luke’s team on the top of Imbabura.

Let’s catch up with our teams in the Southern Hemisphere.  Luke, Romulo and team are ‘barely’ in the Southern Hemisphere right now and part of the day will be in the Northern Hemisphere, actually.  They are up at the climber’s hut on Cayambe and taking the day to do more acclimatization and training.  At around 15,000 ft., it’s a good place to do both.  Luke called in late yesterday, 11 Jan, and said it was a spectacular night at the hut.  Stars a bunch.  If weather holds, they’ll make a summit attempt this evening/early tomorrow.  At 19,000 ft, Cayambe will be their first big test.

Josh, Robert, Martin and crew finish their hike out today from Pampas Lenas on Aconcagua and will be in Mendoza this evening.  Short hike and I’m sure they’re looking forward to showers and a hotel bed.  Mountain said no this time but it will be waiting when they’re ready for a rematch.

And furthest south is our team on Vinson with Austin Shannon.  Camp 1 right now, around 10,000 ft.  Austin said they got a couple of inches of snow, which is a lot for Antarctica and that temps are actually ‘reasonably warm’.  Remember, this is Antarctica so everything’s relative.  They’re likely to use today to consolidate camp and get a bit more acclimatization before they try to make their big carry to C2, high camp.  One step at a time.

Next up – Jonathan Schrock heads to Aconcagua with our third team of the season.  They all arrive Mendoza on the 17th and we’ll follow their progress once they hit the trail.

Phil Ershler

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Weekend Check-In From IMG Teams

January 10, 2016

Here’s a quick summary of Sunday’s ‘movements’ for IMG teams down south. Quick call came in from Austin Shannon and team on the Ice. They moved quickly to C1 today. Couldn’t be going smoother, so far.

Josh McDowell and team retrieved gear and supplies at C2 and headed down the mountain to base camp at Plaza Argentina. They’ll need 2 more days to hike out and expect to be in Mendoza late the evening of the 12th. They are bummed not to have gotten a good shot at the summit but all are smart mountaineers and understand that you can’t control the weather. There will be another time.

Hiking on Fuya Fuya, Ecuador

Hiking on Fuya Fuya, Ecuador

And then there’s Luke Reilly and Romulo Cardenas down in Ecuador. After hiking up Fuya Fuya yesterday, they finished off with a visit to an Otavalan weaver friend of ours in the town of Peguche and dinner at the Hacienda Pinsaqui. Today was another acclimatization hike, this time on Imbabura. They spend tonight at a new hacienda called Papa Gayo. All’s good in Ecuador.

Phil Ershler

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Team Greg Heading Home, Team Austin At C1

January 10, 2016

Ready to fly

Ready to fly

Greg’s Vinson team members are on their way home. This trip is over. Greg sent me this final report on Saturday:

From: Greg Vernovage
Sent: Saturday, January 09, 2016 7:50 PM
Subject: Pretty sweet climb!

Phil,

Sitting on the IL-76 back to Punta Arenas. It’s getting warm and the team is beginning to shed s couple layers as usual. I wanted to shoot a quick note to you and all of our followers about the great climb of Vinson we just had.

The team came together great and worked their butts off to get in position for the warmest summit day I have ever had on Vinson! From the first day I arrived in Punta Arenas and then Union Glacier, I had been warned of the crazy weather patterns the mountain had been experiencing this year. For the first time, I was in danger of spending New Years at Union Glacier. Instead, this team spent New Years counting down on the twin otter! Pilots included, this was a treat!

The team set up camp at Base Camp and Camp 1 to give you an idea of how they were ready to work.

We singled to Camp 1 and after a rest day, carry day and reports of two good weather days in a row, there was no holding us back. We powered up the fixed lines and made High Camp.

Zero hesitation and no doubt, the summit to ourselves!

Like I always say, New Years on the Ice is pretty special. Congratulations to the 2015 Vinson Team and especially to our to Teammates that completed the 7 Summits on this trip.

– Greg Vernovage

Back on the Ice, Austin and team are already at Camp 1.  All’s good.

Phil Ershler

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Vinson, Aconcagua & Ecuador Teams Check In

January 9, 2016

BUSY season for IMG teams in South America and Antarctica.  Let’s starts with our Vinson teams first.

Vinson Team 3 in Punta Arenas

Vinson Team 3 in Punta Arenas

As you know, Greg Vernovage, Austin Shannon and their team all stood together on the summit of Vinson a couple of days ago.  They flew off the Ice this morning, exactly on schedule.  One night in Punta Arenas and they’ll be saying good-bye to one another.  Great team, great success.  Austin Shannon remained on the Ice and met the 4 climbers on our third and final team this morning.  They are standing by for their flight to Vinson base camp now.  China, Korea, Canada and the USA.  They should have fun.  We will be posting dates for the 2016/17 Vinson expeditions soon.  Hope you don’t miss out.

On Aconcagua, Josh McDowell, Robert Jantzen, Martin Lucero and team decided discretion was the better part of valor and are retreating from the mountain.  Snow and wind was making their potential summit attempt simply too much this time around.  That’s OK, they’re healthy and unhurt and hoping there’ll be a rematch with Aconcagua in their future.  Team will be back in Mendoza late on the 12th.  Great effort and solid, consensus decision-making.  Jonathan Schrock will be teaming up with Martin and the next IMG Aconcagua group in just over a week.  We’re wishing them much better luck with the weather.

Ecuador team touring Old Town Quito

Ecuador team touring Old Town Quito

And, we need to report in on our final Ecuador trip of the season.  Led by Luke Reilly, the crew is in Otavalo today.  The famous Indian market there was on the agenda early this morning.  They’ll be taking in the sights/sounds/smells and getting in a couple of acclimatization hikes in the surrounding mountains prior to heading towards their first objective – the summit of Cayambe.  Luke Reilly and Romulo Cardenas “do” an Ecuador climbing trip unlike anyone else.  The group is in for a treat.

Phil Ershler

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Aconcagua Team Waits At Camp 1

January 8, 2016

Route above C1 (in good weather)

Route above C1 (in good weather)

Josh and his team keep trying and the mountain keeps pushing back.  Cold, windy and snowy conditions kept the team from getting to C2 today.  They’ve been super cautious and patient but the team’s starting to get tight on time.  Tomorrow will be a big decision day, in all likelihood.  Probably one way or the other tomorrow.  This team is 100% healthy and strong and ready to rock but the mountain has the final word.  Let’s wish them well and hope Aconcagua decides to cooperate tomorrow, and the next day, and the next.  Regardless, they’re all good, safe and ready to roll with the punches.

Phil Ershler

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Vinson Wraps, Aconcagua Continues

January 7, 2016

Big Bird

The Big Bird

Vinson is pretty much a wrap.  The team left high camp yesterday, descended all the way to Vinson base camp, hopped into a waiting Twin Otter and were eating a hot, prepared dinner at the Union Glacier last evening.  Now, they simply relax in total comfort until the ‘big bird’ swoops in and grabs them.  Ideally, that happens on 9 Jan.  That flight will bring in our final group of the season.  Austin Shannon will be waiting for that team’s arrival.  Don’t know how this trip could have gone any better and don’t know how we could have put together a better group of climbers.  IMG is totally proud of our climbers and guides.

The trek out for Mike's Aconcagua team

The trek out for Mike’s Aconcagua team

Mike Hamill just emailed from Mendoza and told me it’s pouring rain there.  Mike and team will begin flying home on the 9th.  They gave it their all but sometimes the mountain says ‘no’.  It shouted ‘NO’ this time.

Meanwhile on Aconcagua, Josh McDowell and crew continue to wait at C1.  Team’s antsy to go higher but Josh is holding them in check.  Hoping they can sneak in a carry to C2 today.  We’ll see.  Weather has the final word.  They’re healthy, fed and watered and raring to go.

Phil Ershler

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From One Extreme To Another

January 5, 2016

To The Top

To The Top

“Sometimes you eat the mountain and sometimes the mountain eats you.”  It’s a good line.  I think that sums up the day for IMG teams.  Mike Hamill called in from Plaza Mulas, which is base camp on the Horcones Valley side of Aconcagua.  They had hoped to take a summit shot this morning but the mountain said no.  Regardless of the forecasted weather lull this morning, the winds picked up to an easy 60-70 mph, snow fell horizontally and visibility went to zero.  Even an attempt was out of the question.  Mike, Leandro and team did a stellar job of keeping their wits about them and got camp taken down, packed up and they descended.  That was an impressive feat, in itself.  Great effort and a great decision.  They’re safe, warm and ready to hike out tomorrow.  Heck of an effort and absolutely the correct decision.

At the other extreme, Greg Vernovage just called in to say that the entire Vinson team was standing on the summit, in absolutely perfect weather.  No wind, great visibility and in Antarctica, that equates to ‘relatively’ warm.  Sensational effort by Greg, Austin, Gretchen, Doug, Grace, Francois, Brooke, Robert, Chaz and Moselle.  They will be in Vinson base camp by tomorrow afternoon.

Phil Ershler

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Happy New Year From Ouray

January 5, 2016

Cedric launches onto Pitch #2. (Justin Merle)
Cedric launches onto Pitch #2. (Justin Merle)
Rappelling just in time to beat the sun. (Justin Merle)
Rappelling just in time to beat the sun. (Justin Merle)

 

IMG Guides Cedric Gamble and Justin Merle welcomed in the new year with an early morning ascent of Gravity’s Rainbow, one of Ouray’s local classics.  The climb faces south, so it takes cold/cloudy conditions for it to be climbable.  It was a cold morning, but even so they were happy to be off the route before the sun hit.

Our ice climbing season in Ouray just started and the guides are psyched for good conditions and a fun season of climbing, soaking in the hot springs, and not having to sleep in a tent!  With a large variety of ice terrain, Ouray is a wonderful place to learn to ice climb, or to hone the skills your already have.

George Dunn

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Teams Settled In At Camps

January 4, 2016

Quick late afternoon update from the South. Mike and team at high camp on Aconcagua decided to stay put today. Too much wind to attempt the summit. Forecasts call for a lessening of the winds tomorrow and Mike’s team is ready to take a shot.

Josh McDowell’s team on Aconcagua moved into C1 today. they’re planning a carry to C2 tomorrow. All is well with the team.

Mt. Shinn (3rd highest) from high camp

Mt. Shinn (3rd highest) from high camp

On Vinson, Greg Vernovage reported in to say the team moved to high camp today. Great weather and MOS is forecasted for tomorrow. They’re prepping now for a summit attempt tomorrow. It’ll be a long day but it’s hard to rest at high camp when you have good weather.

Wish them all luck.

Phil Ershler

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