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Denali Prep Seminar At Camp Muir

April 24, 2018

Not a bad camp! (Betsy Dian-Owens)
Denali Prep Camp 1 (Betsy Dain Owens)
View from Camp 1 (Betsy Dain-Owens)

Long ways to go. (Betsy Dain-Owens)
Working the Muir Snowfield. (Jonathan Schrock)
Camp Muir. Looking west from the public shelter to the Gombu. Lots of snow! (Betsy Dain-Owens)

 

IMG Senior Guide Betsy Dain-Owens reports that the good weather continues on Mt. Rainier! The team had a great day of training around their first camp yesterday and opted to take advantage of the good weather and head up to Camp Muir today.  Getting up to Camp Muir this time of year is a big day so that was pretty much their only goal for today.

Mission accomplished…sort of. Once at Muir they still had a little bit of work to do! Snow has blown in and blocked some of the doors and buildings around Muir. One surefire way to keep warm at Camp Muir is to pick up a shovel. The good news is that there are plenty of shovels to go around.

All is well on Mt. Rainier!

Tye Chapman

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Denali Prep Seminar Soaking In The Sun On Mt. Rainier

April 23, 2018

Mt. Rainier National Park Webcam View (4.23.18)

IMG Senior Guide Betsy Dain-Owens checked in by radio from the lower slopes of Mt. Rainier today. Her report was that the Denali Prep Seminar team is having an absolute blast in the good weather. Their plan for today is to work on some of the fundamentals (ice axe arrest, cramponing, and rope travel) then branch out into some companion rescue training with their avalanche beacons.

Mount Rainier Recreational Forecast
National Weather Service Seattle WA
333 AM PDT Mon Apr 23 2018

.SYNOPSIS…An upper ridge will build over the park today and
remain through Thursday, bringing a stretch of sunny and warm
days. Offshore flow will result in the warmest weather since last
September. An upper level low will approach from the south late
in the week bringing a return to more seasonal weather for the
weekend.

Tye Chapman

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Justin Merle Promoted To Chief Guide

April 23, 2018

Justin Merle (Paul Pottinger)
Justin Merle (Paul Pottinger)
Justin Merle (Sarah Cousins Hoopes)
Justin Merle (Sarah Cousins Hoopes)
Justin Merle and fellow IMG Guide Emily Johnston (Paul Pottinger)
Justin Merle and fellow IMG Guide Emily Johnston (Paul Pottinger)

Justin Merle began guiding on Mt. Rainer in 1999 and hasn’t stopped.  Since his first climb as a guide, he’s accumulated over 160 summits of Mt. Rainier and countless other summits here in the Great Pacific Northwest and worldwide, including seven summits of Mt. Everest. Merle, an AMGA certified Alpine Guide, has shown tremendous leadership over the years and he has earned the position of Chief Guide.  The Chief Guide role at IMG has been held by Justin’s good friend, mentor and longtime guide, IMG Partner George Dunn.

“I’m delighted to pass on the role of Chief Guide to veteran IMG Guide Justin Merle. Justin has been with IMG from the start and he is a proven guide with experience based on years of leading programs around the world. Most importantly, Justin has the respect and friendship of the entire guide staff at IMG.” – George Dunn

In this new role for Justin, he’ll direct our great team of Guide Supervisors, oversee new guide hiring, training and ongoing guide development. Additionally, throughout the Rainier season Merle will consult with the IMG staff as well as the National Park Service and the other Rainier Guide Services on mountain conditions, route development and risk management on the mountain.

“I’m humbled to be named Chief Guide at IMG. I’ve looked up to George Dunn, Phil Ershler and Eric Simonson since my first climb in 1999. They’ve been great leaders, mentors, bosses and friends. I’m looking forward to these new responsibilities, especially working with the guide staff. If there’s one thing I know, it’s that we can all be better guides, and that starts this weekend with our Spring Guide Training. Time to get to work!” – Justin Merle

While Merle has been promoted to Chief Guide, George Dunn isn’t going anywhere. He’ll continue to oversee the entire Rainier Program at IMG. Look for George and Justin on the snowfield this summer!

Tye Chapman

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Perfect Spring Weather for the Final 2018 Denali Seminar

April 22, 2018

Great view in perfect weather from Lower Cornice Camp (Dustin Balderach)

Great view in perfect weather from Lower Cornice Camp (Dustin Balderach)

Clear blue skies and moderate temperatures met IMG’s final 2018 Denali Seminar as they arrived in Paradise on Sunday. In fact, if the forecast holds they should receive beautiful weather the whole week as they work their way up the mountain. Fingers crossed!

Already today the team has covered some basic knots, fixed rope ascension, sled rigging and are on their way to the first camp. These Seminars are always chock full of learning experiences, regardless of weather.  Bad weather dials in your camp and self care skills, while good weather should allow this team to complete significant work on their technical skills. Its day one of a long trip and you can’t ask for a better start!

Robert Jantzen

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2018 Pricing On Spring 2019 Everest Programs

April 16, 2018

Trekking above Pheriche (Ang Jangbu Sherpa)

Trekking above Pheriche (Ang Jangbu Sherpa)

Our 2018 Everest Expedition is in full swing. Teams are on the move in the Khumbu Valley every day now. For those of you following along, with your eyes on 2019, you’ve got two weeks to take advantage of our 2018 pricing!

While the 2019 Everest dates are set, prices will be going up for the Spring 2019 Everest programs (Everest, Lhotse, Lobuche, EBC Treks). There’s just no way around it. The good news is that for climbers and trekkers who are ready to sign up for 2019 Everest programs, we are extending the current 2018 prices until May 1, 2018.

Take a look at the dates for our 2019 Everest Programs and give it some thought. Drop us a line if you’re interested!

Tye Chapman
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Training on Rainier at its Best

April 13, 2018

Expedition Style Camp (Nathan Berry)
Expedition Style Camp (Nathan Berry)
Snow Walls Protect the Cook Tent from Harsh Winds (Conrad Wharton)
Snow Walls Protect the Cook Tent from Harsh Winds (Conrad Wharton)
Learning to Negotiate Fixed Ropes (Conrad Wharton)
Learning to Negotiate Fixed Ropes (Conrad Wharton)
Lead Guide Nickel Wood Demonstrating Fixed Rope Ascension at IMG HQ in Ashford (Nathan Berry)
Lead Guide Nickel Wood Demonstrating Fixed Rope Ascension at IMG HQ in Ashford (Nathan Berry)

As always Rainier has provided a great training venue this week. Snowy winter weather, wind, and variable terrain gave our Denali Seminar team exposure to all aspects of expedition climbing. Over the last 6 days they’ve experienced expedition camp maintenance, crevasse rescue scenarios, navigation training, fixed rope courses and, of course, the joys of sled hauling.

Yesterday the weather had the last word and lead guide Nickel Wood made the call to bring the team out a day early. Today they’re focusing on the details of more advanced haul systems used to extricate climbers from a crevasse in the comfort of our Ashford HQ training facilities.

Nice work team!

Robert Jantzen

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Denali Prep Team Takes A Day Trip To Paradise Glacier

April 11, 2018

Paradise Webcam Screenshot (April 11, 2018)

Paradise Webcam Screenshot (April 11, 2018)

The Denali Prep Team checked in by radio again today reporting that they’ve opted to hang tight another day to train.  They’ve got their eyes on a frontal system that’s moving into the area. It’s likely bringing a good bit of precip (snow) with it, so better to hunker down & take advantage of what Mt. Rainier gives them. The good news is that there is plenty to do, and great terrain to train on in the area.  After breakfast the team loaded up for the day and ventured from their camp on Mazama Ridge, over to the nearby Paradise Glacier.

Tye Chapman

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Denali Prep Seminar Dug In On Mt. Rainier

April 10, 2018

Paradise Webcam - Mt. Rainier National Park

Paradise Webcam – Mt. Rainier National Park

IMG Senior Guide Nickel Wood radioed in from Mazama Ridge on the lower flanks of Mt. Rainier today.  After a road closure on Sunday, the team was able to get into Mt. Rainier National Park & up to the Paradise parking lot yesterday. All the prep work was done, so once they got to the parking lot it was go time. They put the packs on and grabbed their pre-rigged sleds and made their way to camp. Once in camp, the team got right to work digging tent platforms & building wind walls around their tents.

The plan for today is to hang tight around camp and train. If the weather improves they’ll move up to Camp Muir or an intermediate camp along the way. Patience is part of the training!  Hopefully the guys will be able to sneak out a photo. For now we’re stuck looking at the webcam!

Tye Chapman

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April 7, 2018

IMG’s 2018 Everest Expedition Coverage is now under way!

IMG now has three teams in the Khumbu Valley with Team 3 flying into Lukla and trekking to Phakding.

Team 3 on the trail from Lukla to Phakding (photo: Ang Jangbu)

 

Team 2 is acclimating in Lobuche BC and today hiked up to Lobuch high camp, while Team 1 is getting settled in Everest BC. The first team’s trekkers explored base camp and walked up to Crampon Point at the base of the Khumbu Icefall.

IMG trekkers in Everest BC at the base of the Khumbu Icefall (photo: Greg Vernovage)

 

Read today’s full dispatch and follow along daily on the IMG 2018 Everest Expedition Coverage page »

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PNW Climbs Filling Up Fast

March 28, 2018

Mt. Shuksan (Austin Shannon)
Eagles Nest Camp on Mt. Rainier (photo: Luke Reilly)
Sunset on Mt. Baker (photo: Charles Peterson)
Sunset on Mt. Baker (photo: Charles Peterson)

 

While the bulk of our Mt. Rainier climbs are full, we still have a few openings on our intermediate climbs of the Kautz & Fuhrer Finger Routes, as well as our Little Tahoma Seminar Program. These are great climbs for people who have already climbed Mt. Rainier and are looking for a more technical challenge (Kautz & Fuhrer Finger) or a more skills focused seminar (Little Tahoma Seminar) that climbs the 3rd highest peak in Washington.

While we agree that everybody should climb Mt. Rainier at least once in their lifetime, we feel equally as strong about Mt. Baker and our climbs in the North Cascades. Join one of our scheduled climbs of Mt. Shuksan or Mt. Baker (great introductory climbs), or grab a climbing partner and we’ll put together a private program for you on Baker, Shuksan, or one of the other myriad of moderate to technical alpine routes North Cascades National Park has to offer. June through September is the main climbing season in the North Cascades. The summer schedule is filling up fast so drop us a line if you’re considering a climb this summer!

Tye Chapman

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