Tough Start On Mt. Rainier

May 11, 2018

Little Tahoma (Luke Reilly)

Things looked promising for our first two climbs of the Rainier season, but as she always does, Mt. Rainier had the final say, which meant no summits for our teams. High winds and low visibility being two of the deciding factors. The good news is that both teams got a good dose of Mt. Rainier, and will surly be back!

Our third climb of the season is heading uphill to Camp Muir now, and if the weather forecast holds, they’ll likely get a fair chance at a summit attempt on Sunday. Only time, and Mt. Rainier, will tell!

Tye Chapman

2018 PNW Summer Women’s Programs

May 10, 2018

By IMG Guide Anna Hicks

: Mt. Shuksan (Anna Hicks)

: Mt. Shuksan (Anna Hicks)

: The summit of Mt. Shuksan (Anna Hicks)

Iâ€™ve personally experienced the constraints a person can face on their journey to becoming a mountaineer. Now that Iâ€™m a mountain guide, Iâ€™m passionate about helping other people achieve their goals in the mountains. Currently women are very underrepresented in mountaineering, and being the only woman on a climb can be challenging.Â Therefore, myself and the other female guides at IMG have developed programs to help women build competence and confidence in the mountains.

This year we are offering 3 all-womenâ€™s programs during the 2018 summer season!Â Whether youâ€™re a first-time mountaineer who wants an introduction to climbing or a seasoned adventurer looking for a refresher course with in-depth hands-on training and practice, we have a program that will suit your needs.Â You can sign up for a summit climb of Rainier via the Disappointment Cleaver route, or a 6-day mountaineering skills seminar on Mount Baker or Mount Shuksan.Â Check out our website for program details and dates.

During last yearâ€™s womenâ€™s programs I asked every participant why they signed up and I heard a wide range of reasons.Â A couple of women said it happened to be the only spot left on a Disappointment Cleaver climb of Rainier.Â A few said that they didnâ€™t necessarily care if it was an all-womenâ€™s climb, but that they can relate better to female guides.Â Others said they wanted an all-womenâ€™s climb because they believe it can be a more supportive learning environment, that they want to focus on the strengths we share as women, or that they wanted to meet future female climbing partners.

Our different reasons for choosing one of IMGâ€™s all-womenâ€™s programs is a big part of what we individually have to contribute to the whole: a wide variety of perspectives, opinions, skillsets, and backgrounds.Â Â We at IMG look forward to speaking with you about our womenâ€™s programs and helping you pick the right program for your goals.Â We look forward to you becoming part of our community of women in the mountains who are working together to become more competent and confident mountaineers.

I hope you can join us on one of our women’s climbs this summer!

Anna Hicks

Denali Contract Announcement

May 8, 2018

IMG Guides Mike Haft and Peter Dale On the summit of Denali

It is with great excitement and pride that IMG Denali, LLC Â announces having been awarded a 10 year contract by the National Park Service to guide on Denali.Â IMG Denali, LLC is a new company formed in 2014 by International Mountain Guides, LLC Â and our long-time friend, past climbing partner and guide, Dr. Daniel Mann.Â International Mountain Guides, LLC partnersÂ Paul Baugher, George Dunn, Phil Ershler and Eric Simonson look forward to working with Dan Mann and bringing our combined skills and experience to the challenge of guiding on Denali and in Denali National Park beginning in May 2019.

We will be bringing a fresh approach to guiding The Great One. While the National Park Service requires a 3:1 climber to guide ratio, we will employ a 2:1 climber to guide ratio, with groups of 8 climbers and 4 guides. This approach gives us more strength and more options on summit day. Most people donâ€™t get a chance to climb Denali twice, which is why we want to do everything we can to set ourselves up for success the first time.

We are still finalizing our dates and rates for 2019. If you are interested in climbing with one of our IMG Denali teams, please get in touch with our office, and we’ll put your name on the list to receive furtherÂ information:

office@mountainguides.com
360-569-2609

Weâ€™ll see you in Alaska in 2019!

IMG Denali

Get Lost In The Mountains Of Peru

May 8, 2018

: Not a bad campsite! (John Hodder))

: Lago Churup (John Hodder)

: Views in every direction! (John Hodder)

: Punta Cuyoc (John Hodder)

I trekked the Cordillera Huayhuash for the first time last summer and quickly fell in love with the region.Â The mountains are tucked away in the Peruvian Andes, and are home to some of Peru’s most remote peaks and most beautiful landscapes (in my opinion!).

Trekking through the range, you get to know these mountains by climbing up high passes and skirting their glacially fed rivers and lakes.Â With our itinerary, the pace is such that you can feel accomplished at the end of a day of hiking, but not so wiped out that you can’t enjoy the great views and take the time to look around and appreciate where you are.Â You get the luxury of burro support and a cook team, which means our camps and meals are taken care of, and you only need to carry a day’s worth of layers and food for the trail.Â The route itself is unique – you’ll be on very remote trails, yet you’ll pass through farming villages, seasonal grazing lands, and abandoned ruins.Â You get to see a full spectrum of ecology and plant and animal life as we pass through multiple elevations and ecosystems.Â You also get to see the highest peaks of the Cordillera Huayhuash from various angles, as we circumnavigate the large peaks of the zone.Â A highlight is getting to one of our highest passes, San Antonio, and walking out the long valley towards the mountain town of Huayllapa, a beautiful meander along river beds, lush farmlands, waterfalls and wildflowers.Â And finally, you get to know the culture of Peru more intimately than just a passerby with our local Peruvian guide and support staff telling stories and providing context as we go along.

It’s also worth mentioning that the Huayhuash Trek is a great trip to see how your body handles higher altitudes.Â We have the benefit of getting two full days to acclimatize in Huaraz, at 10,000feet, with day hikes to higher elevations, and then begin our trek at around 12,000feet, with gradual altitude gains and losses for the next 12 days.

So, whether you’re looking to build your high altitude trekking repertoire, or just want to get lost in the mountains for a while, I’d highly recommend this trip.Â It’s one of my favorites!

Betsy Dain-Owens

Mt. Rainier Climbing Season Is Here

May 7, 2018

: The Muir Set-up team with the frame to the weatherport done. (Andy Polloczek)

: Warm and cozy after setting up the weatherport. (Andy Polloczek)

: Our first team of the season. (Rob Jantzen)

Over the weekend several IMG Guides made their way up to Camp Muir to put the final piece of the preseason puzzle together…the weatherport. The weatherport is a temporary 12ft. x 15ft. structure that we use for team meals, guide sleeping and the storage of some of the needed climbing equipment for the season.Â For anybody who had climbed with us via the DC Route, they can attest to the weatherport as a great place to enjoy some of our famous burritos or pancakes & bacon.Â The guides knocked it out of the park and got it set-up in pretty good time… or at least very good timing as they pulled into the parking lot just as the forecasted thunderstorms arrived.

While they were making their way down from Paradise, our first climbers of the season were getting their orientation & gear check from IMG Chief Guide Justin Merle.Â Everyone was well prepared, and after a few rentals, were ready to go!Â This morning the team came together again, this time to load up and head up to Paradise to start our first Mt. Rainier climb of the 2019 season. Luke Reilly is in the lead and is assisted by Anna Hicks, Willie Webster and Rikki Dunn.

It’s going to be another great summer on Mt. Rainier!

Tye Chapman

New Guides Learning The Ropes On Mt. Rainier

May 2, 2018

: All smiles before heading up to Paradise. (Justin Merle)

: En route to Camp Muir. (Luke Reilly)

The first IMG climb of the Mt. Rainier season is just a few days away and we’re not letting those days go to waste. This morning our newly hired guides gathered at IMG for our annual new guide training.Â The goal for these three days is to get them up to speed and comfortable with how we run our programs on Mt. Rainier, and also for them to get to know Mt. Rainier a little (lot) better. The morning coffee was spent going over the weather, making a route plan and discussing the goals of the next three days.

Route plans in hand they loaded up the van and went up to Paradise. The afternoon will be spent going over some of the guide specific geography between Paradise and Camp Muir. They’ll also go over when and where we take breaks and teach specific techniques (i.e. the rest step and pressure breathing).Â Once at Camp Muir they’ll get the lay of the land and learn our protocols, along with some additional technical training over the next couple days.

They’re in good hands with IMG Senior Guides Luke Reilly, Mike Haft leading the way, along with Jay Lyons assisting.

Tye Chapman

Weekend Guide Training Wrap-up

April 30, 2018

: Sunday’s classroom. (Betsy Dain-Owens)

: Justin Merle giving some instructions. (Betsy Dain-Owens)

: Rescue practice. (Jordan Cohen)

: What a team! (Robert Jantzen)

Every spring IMG Guides come together for our annual Guide Training weekend just before the start of the Rainier climbing season. This year we packed the room with 37 Guides.Â Saturday is typically reserved for getting to know the new guides (10 this year), discussing any new protocols, a refresher on driving the vans & trailers, and a brush-up on Leave No Trace ethics. After the day wrapped up it was time to crack open a beer, have a burger, relax, and really get to know the new guides, as well as catch-up with old friends after a long, long winter.

Sunday is a field day, so the guides loaded up in the vans and went up to Paradise to work on beacon search & recovery, crevasse rescue as well as a few different litter rescue scenarios. This weekend is a great transition/switching of gears for guides who have been on big expeditions and/or on skis for the better part of the winter.

The training continues for the new guides later this week with our New Guide Training. Chief Guide Justin Merle along with Guide Supervisors Luke Reilly and Mike Haft will take the new guides through the paces to show them the IMG ropes (pardon the pun). This typically starts out with some route planning followed by a trip up to Camp Muir. Thursday and Friday are reserved for some more technical training and if there’s time, a summit climb.

The weather looks good for the foreseeable future so we’re off to a great start to the 2018 Rainier Climbing season. Our first climb of the season hits the Muir Snowfield in one week!

Tye Chapman

That’s A Wrap For The Denali Prep Seminar

April 27, 2018

: Crevasse Rescue Training at Camp Muir (Jonathan Schrock)

: Is there a better place to learn? (Jonathan Schrock)

: Working their way up Muir Peak via a fixed line. (Jonathan Schrock)

: Fixed line training (Jonathan Schrock)

Our final Denali Prep Seminar sipped on coffee this morning at Camp Muir enjoying their last views of the trip. The walk down the Muir Snowfield took them into the clouds below and back to reality. Once down at Paradise they loaded up the van and made their way back to Ashford for a team debrief and some showers.

All smiles at Camp Muir this morning. (Betsy Dain-Owens)

This wraps up the winter season for IMG on Mt. Rainier. The good news is that the climbing season starts tomorrow with our annual Guide Training. The week that follows is pretty busy with our New Guide Training, Muir Set-up, and the first climb of the season on May 6th.

Here we go!

Tye Chapman

Denali Prep Seminar Enjoying A Great Week

April 26, 2018

: Sunrise on the Cowlitz Glacier. (Betsy Dain-Owens)

: IMG Guide Jonathan Schrock leading his team through the Cathedral Gap. (Betsy Dain-Owens)

: The team taking at break near The Flats. (Betsy Dain-Owens)

The photos pretty much say it all. The great weather continues for the Denali Prep Seminar on Mt. Rainier. Lead Guide Betsy Dain-Owens reports that her team took a walk across the Cowlitz Glacier, though the Cathedral Gap, up to The Flats to take a look at the upper mountain. While tempted to keep going, they opted to enjoy the view and let the recent warm-up keep the upper hand. They’re all back at Camp Muir continuing to train on technical skills while enjoying the views of the Mt. Adams and the Tatoosh Mountains.

Tye Chapman

Training Day At Camp Muir

April 25, 2018

View From The Camp Muir Webcam 4.25.18

Lead Guide Betsy Dain-Owens checked in from Camp Muir reporting more good weather for her Denali Prep Seminar. The team is taking full advantage of the weather by doing some crevasse rescue training today along with some fixed line work on Muir Peak.

We’re two weeks from the start of the Rainier climbing season! It can’t get here soon enough with weather like this!

Tye Chapman