May 26, 2019
Denali West Buttress Route
Ed Leas and his team made it up to high camp at 17,000 feet on Saturday. They are all dug in and ready to wait out the expected winds and cold weather for the next day or two. The weather is expected to improve starting on Tuesday, and if so, their team will be in place to go for the summit when the weather and conditions look good.
George Dunn
May 25, 2019
Looking out over the Alaska Range (Mike Haft)
Expeditions on Denali are complicated, the accuracy of weather reports can be on point or entirely suspect, and teams often alternate between prepping and plain ‘ol waiting – on a daily basis. IMG Denali guides understand patience, persistence, and being ready to take advantage of opportunities are key and strategize accordingly. As of today, Ed Leas and his team are ready for their move to high camp, Andy Polloczek is not far behind, and Austin Shannon and his crew arrive in Talkeetna tomorrow.
All is well (and busy!) in the land of the midnight sun.
Phil Ershler
May 25, 2019
Hiking to Condoriri Base Camp (Adam Clark)
After their first night in tents down at Tambo Condoriri, the team loaded up the donkeys and moved to the Base Camp. This is an absolutely beautiful area, with a nice lake, great training opportunities and several nice peaks nearby. Today the team did some training on the glacier to refresh their skills and get ready for their first peak tomorrow. Their plan will be to climb Pico Austria, a nice scramble and at about 17,300 ft it’s great altitude practice.
Eric Simonson
May 25, 2019
Winter conditions on the Muir Snowfield in May (Nicole Sims)
After an unseasonably warm start to May, the weather over the past 10 days brought much needed snow to the glaciers. Whiteout conditions prevailed below Muir, but with a 10,600′ cloud deck yesterday, IMG Senior Guide, Mike Haft, and his team climbed up into clearer skies at camp on the Ingraham.
Above the Muir ground blizzard (Lara Ralich)
With conditions and visibility improving, the guide services are actively working on the route to the summit. We’ll continue with the Ingraham a bit longer than we’d thought!
The Fuhrer Finger team heads uphill in favorable weather (Rowan Stewart)
Earlier this week, IMG Lead Guide, Jay Lyons, and his Fuhrer Finger team were met with inconsistent weather that had the potential to give them a shot at the summit but ultimately, they opted for a safe retreat.
The clouds move in on the Fuhrer Finger team (Rowan Stewart)
While it’s always difficult to walk away without a summit, each climber has gained something valuable from their teammates and from the mountain.
Watch for our May newsletter early next week to learn more about upcoming programs!
Heather Garland
May 23, 2019
After a couple fun days down at Lake Titicaca the team moved up to Tambo Condoriri, a nice camping place at about 14,000 feet in the Cordillera Real.
This afternoon they took an acclimatization hike in the surrounding area (which is also known as Tuni) and enjoyed the views of the Condoriri Range.
Tomorrow they are heading for Condoriri Base Camp, at over 15,000 feet. The mountains are getting closer!
Eric Simonson
May 22, 2019
Our Bolivia team had the ultimate acclimatization day today, with a boat trip and gorgeous hiking on the famous Isla del Sol (Sun Island) in Lake Titicaca. It’s a fun trip, with some nice trails and interesting Inca ruins to explore. According to the Inca legends, this island was the birthplace of the Sun God!
Now they have returned back to Copacabana for the night. After two nights at 11,000 feet in La Paz and two nights at 12,500 feet at Lake Titicaca, the acclimatization is starting to kick in. Roberto reports that the team is feeling good and looking forward to going to the mountains.
Tomorrow they will load up and move to Tambo Condoriri (about 14,000 feet) for more acclimatization hiking, and then the next day they go to the Condoriri Base Camp (over 15,000 feet). It’s all money in the bank for their acclimatization.
Eric Simonson
May 21, 2019
The summer climbing season is beginning in Bolivia, and our IMG team is ready to take advantage of the good weather and conditions in the Cordillera Real mountains!
Good news: everyone made it to La Paz safe and sound with all their luggage. That’s the way to start a trip! After a day of acclimatization in La Paz, today the team moved up to Lake Titicaca (about 12,500ft) for more acclimatization. Bolivia is HIGH, so we need to take it slow and easy!
Over the next couple weeks, the team will travel to the Condoriri area for training and an ascent of Pequeno Alpamayo (17,482’), then on to Huayna Potosi (19,974’) and finally to Illimani (21,200’).
We are looking forward to following along with them.
Eric Simonson
May 20, 2019
14,000′ Camp on Denali (Jason Edwards)
Progress is getting made up on Denali. Team 1, with Ed and Kevin, made their carry from 11,000’ to 13,500’ two days ago and then moved into their new 14,000’ camp yesterday. Big move day but folks did well. Today is a ‘back carry’ day. Team will take their time getting ready this morning as the walk down to their cache is QUICK and the walk back with the load just isn’t that far. Kind of an ‘active rest’ day. They’ve earned it. Big thing will be to make sure they clear out the cache completely so they won’t have to worry about it on their way home.
Down in Talkeetna, Andy Polloczek and crew have a meeting scheduled with the NPS and bunches of packing/sorting to wrap up. Busy day but pretty exciting. Game day could easily be tomorrow morning, weather permitting. Need good weather to fly so fingers are crossed.
Phil Ershler
May 18, 2018
Fresh snow after a few days of stormy weather (Willie Webster)
The weather on Rainier has calmed a bit and the sun is shining today. IMG Lead Guide, Willie Webster, and his team are up at Muir training this morning and will head to the Ingraham Flats Camp this afternoon. A couple of the guides on the trip have ascended ahead of Willie to assess the route above camp to the Ingraham Headwall. We’re hoping conditions are favorable, the weather remains stable, and a summit attempt is in the cards.
We still have opportunities to climb the mountain and/or work on your mountaineering skills for an independent climb:
Mountain Day School
May 24
June 14
July 4
July 25
Advanced Mountain Day School
July 5
July 26
Crevasse Rescue School
July 6-7
July 27-28
3.5 Day DC
August 24-27
Emmons
July 22-26
Kautz
June 29 – July 3
Glacier Skills Seminar
August 17-23
Little Tahoma Seminar
June 16-21
July 7-12
Complete and submit your application packet or email office@mountainguides.com for more info!
All remains well on Rainier!
Heather Garland
May 17, 2019
Hauling sleds (Jason Edwards)
Great progress on Denali. No issues for the team as they have now moved to Camp 3 at 11,000’ and are taking a deserved rest day there. So, they’re done with the bulk of the sled pulling, at this point. They’ll use the sleds above, into 14,000’, but the weight in the sled decreases as the terrain begins to get steeper and a bit more ‘technical’.
Ed reports all members doing well with everyone strong and not hesitating to pitch in with all aspects of the expedition. Can’t ask for more.
Phil Ershler
