June 1, 2019

Quick weekend ‘strategy’ update: Andy and crew sat today after having already made their carry high. Plan is to move to high camp tomorrow. Weather is calling for a transition day tomorrow with mostly dry weather Monday and Tuesday with winds less than 30 knots up high. Sunday seems like the day to make their move up high and get established at high camp.

Ridge of the West Buttress going up to high camp (Jason Edwards)

Meanwhile, Austin and team are making their move to 14K today. They’ll need to pick up their cache at 13,500’, but we’ll have to see exactly when they do that. This is where the ‘art’ of guiding comes in. Weather, acclimatization, team strength, weather, motivation –- they all play a role in the decision-making. We’ll just have to see how things unfold for Team 3.

Regardless, all is fine on the mountain. The guides will get a kick out of being together, at least for the night.

Phil Ershler

May 29, 2019

Ed and crew tried to sneak one in and just couldn’t get the break needed. They snuck up to high camp, hoping to get a break which would let them summit while STILL leaving a margin of time and weather to ‘sneak’ back down. Just wasn’t happening and none of the forecasts showed a window within a reasonable amount of days. Tough, but discretion is always the better part of valor, and the team decided yesterday to leave high camp. Cold, windy and snowy just didn’t make for a good summit attempt combination. They likely fly out today.

Like climbing in another world (Jason Edwards)

Andy and crew are heading for 14K. They’re just ticking right along and hoping Alaska is a bit more kind to them when it comes time to move higher.

And, let’s not forget Austin Shannon and team who flew onto the mountain yesterday. They’ve got some ‘hauling’ days ahead on the Kahiltna Glacier but those are actually some of the most important days. Building that foundation of acclimatization is key to success above 14K.

Phil Ershler

May 27, 2019

Ed Leas’ team is sitting at 17,000 feet waiting for a good spell to summit in. They have a good supply of food and fuel and are well fortified, just waiting on a clear day!

Andy Polloczek’s team is at 11,000 feet, waiting to move up to 14,000 as conditions allow. All are well and they carried the bulk of their supplies up to 13,700 on Saturday. They will move to 14, then drop down the next day to pick up their cache.

Austin Shannon’s team is doing their briefing with the NPS today, and as conditions allow, flying onto the mountain as soon as possible. They have gone through their gear checks, review of group supplies and food and will be ready to go.

George Dunn