June 10, 2019

The sun does set on Denali (Jason Edwards)

Austin and his team flew off the mountain yesterday evening. They’re showered, fed and rested, and now checked out with the National Park Service. They are a pretty happy crew and some are already making their way home. The guides will stay in Talkeetna one more day to clean and dry gear. Nice end to our first guiding season on Denali. Big congratulations one more time to all members of Austin’s team and all the guides. Nice job, gang.

Phil Ershler

June 8, 2019

IMG climbers on the summit of Denali (Mike Haft)

We have an update from Alaska! Andy Polloczek and his crew are back at the landing strip, waiting for clouds to dissipate and clearer skies that will allow for a flight to Talkeetna. Hopefully, they are out today and on their way home in the morning. We thank everyone for an excellent effort!

In other news, Austin Shannon and his team had 100% on top yesterday. Weather was as hoped and it was not a day to sit at high camp. Even though the team had a long day the day before, they all said “let’s go” when they woke to good climbing conditions.  “When the fish are running, it’s time to go fishing”! Great job by all.

Their return to high camp was uneventful and they’re making their move lower now. They’ll decide along the way whether to stop at 14K or 11K or head all the way down to 7,500 for the night.  They’ll do what feels right and at least get down as low as they can.  A flight out, weather permitting, is scheduled for tomorrow.

So, all is well in Alaska.

Phil Ershler

June 7, 2019

View from above (Jason Edwards)

Andy and team are on their way back to the landing site.  Time to get a shower, a nice dinner and sleep again in a bed. They know they gave it their best and that’s what really matters.

Austin and team woke up this morning at high camp and were met by pretty good weather.  Team had a quick discussion and decided to take a shot.  They are motivated and want to take that shot – NOW.  Have not heard back from the team and won’t likely until later today but we’re sending them our best thoughts.  Wishing them luck on their summit bid and hoping Andy and team are able to fly off the mountain this evening.

Phil Ershler

June 6, 2019

High Camp To Denali Pass (Jason Edwards)

Well, Andy Polloczek and Team 2 gave it one ‘heck’ of an effort. Team was turned around yesterday but didn’t bail. They hung in at 17K and took another shot today.  Mother nature said an emphatic NO. Increasing wind, precipitation and thunder. Decision was an easy one. Team made quick work of getting to Denali Pass but that was it. You have to be VERY careful about climbing up into a storm. Totally correct call.

Austin and Team 3 are trying to get to 17K today. This is a big push. It’ll be nice to have Team 2 at high camp and ready to offer a hot drink.

Regardless, all is well, albeit without a summit. That said, lots of ways to measure success. 10 fingers and 10 toes probably counts for something.

Phil Ershler

June 4, 2019

Andy and team are still playing a bit of a waiting game up at 17K. Weather is the issue which decides when they take a shot at the summit. Been too windy to make a safe summit attempt. They’ve still got time, so trying now to time things ‘just right’. They’re dug in with supplies to wait long, and they’re feeling well. Come on, weather!

The slope from 14K to 16K (Jason Edwards)

Austin and crew are in a good position at 14K. They’ve picked up their cache at 13.5K and will now make a carry up onto the Buttress as soon as they can. They too are watching the weather carefully. Preference for them would be to get their carry done and then sit at 14K until ‘signs say yes’ and then head for the summit right away. Lots of food and fuel at 14K so they’re being patient and will be ready to move when the mountain says move.

Phil Ershler