New height for Everest!

December 12, 2020

Mount Everest from the summit of Lhotse (Phunuru Sherpa)

China and Nepal share the summit of Mt Everest and have agreed to revised elevation. A group of Chinese surveyors and climbers climbed the north side in the spring 2020 season and have released their new height as 8,848.86m (29,032 ft). This is about halfway between the 1954 Survey of India calculation of Â 8,848m (29,028 ft) and the slightly greater height of 8,850m (29,035 ft) determined in 1999 by the National Geographic Society and Boston’s Museum of Science. Itâ€™s great news that Everest did not shrink too much after the 2015 earthquake, as some had feared. Itâ€™s still the worldâ€™s highest!

Congratulations to all of the climbers who have summited this beautiful mountain.

We are super motivated as we look forward to returning to Nepal and preparing for Everest 2021!

Join IMG On Mt. Rainier This Winter

October 23, 2020

An IMG Team taking it all in (Dave Coon)

While the bulk of summer season on Mt. Rainier is sold out, we still have availability on some of our winter Avalanche & Denali Prep Courses.

AIARE Avalanche Level 1 – Whether you are new to exploring the mountains during the winter or want to freshen up on your snow and avalanche skills, you’ll find topics covered in this course tailored to the backcountry recreationist. This curriculum meets and exceeds all guidelines put forth by the American Avalanche Association’s Education Committee for an Avalanche Level 1 course.

Mt Rainier (meeting at IMG headquarters in Ashford, WA):
December 18-20, 2020
January 1-3, 2021

Crystal Mountain (meeting at the Crystal Mountain Fire Hall):
January 22-24, 2021
February 12-14, 2021
February 26-28, 2021
March 12-14, 2021

Avalanche Rescue Couse – AIARE Avalanche Rescue is a one-day course that focuses on the basics of companion rescue for new students. Returning participants will expand their skill set with advanced topics and realistic scenario practice to help improve their skills. This program is intended to be retaken every other year or so to keep up on best practices in rescue techniques and gear. The Avalanche Rescue Course is a prerequisite of the AIARE LevelÂ 2 Course. Each student will receive professional coaching on their rescue skills as well as a rescue card acknowledging the completionÂ date.

Meeting at IMG headquarters in Ashford, WA:
January 4, 2021

Meeting at the Crystal Mountain Ski Area:
January 25, 2021

Denali Expedition Seminar Â – Training focused on preparation for an IMG expedition to Denali or other high altitude peaks. Get the best possible training necessary to participate in an expedition to Denali including ice axe arrest, cramponing, sled rigging and hauling, expedition camps, snow shelters, snow anchors, crevasse rescue and fixed ropes. This program is equally useful for those looking for a good introductory winter training seminar. February, March and AprilÂ only.

February 6-12, 2021 (2 spots open)
March 6-12, 2021 (4 spots open)
April 3-9, 2021Â (1 spot open)

2021 Rainier Dates Released

October 13, 2020

One of our 2020 Teams on the summit of Mt. Rainier. (Justin Merle)

After an abbreviated 2020 season on Mt. Rainier, we’re happy to announce a full slate of programs in 2021!

6.5 Day Denali Prep Seminar – This program is a perfect introduction to extreme cold weather mountaineering and a prerequisite for a guided Denali Expedition. Learn crevasse rescue, sled rigging & hauling, expedition camping, navigation, fixed line travel, and more.

AIARE Avalanche Level IÂ – This three day course is an introduction to the skills a backcountry recreationist needs to safely travel in avalanche terrain. Topics covered include identifying avalanche terrain, understanding snowpack basics, developing a plan, team decision making, and fundamentals of companion rescue.

AIARE Avalanche Rescue CourseÂ – This one day program is intended to be retaken every other year to maintain and hone your companion rescue skills. New students can focus on the basics of companion rescue while returning students expand their skills with advanced topics. All students receive in-depth training and feedback during realistic scenario practice. The Avalanche Rescue Course is a prerequisite of the AIARE Level 2 Course.

3.5 Day Disappointment Cleaver RouteÂ -Â This program is an enjoyable way to climb Rainier and is also a great introduction to mountaineering. Learn to climb safely and efficiently with expert instruction on cramponing, ice axe arrest, and rope team travel.

Women’s 3.5 Day Disappointment Cleaver Climb -Â If you’re a woman looking to climb and make connections with other strong women, don’t miss this program. Led by an all-female guide crew, this program follows the same itinerary as our other 3.5 Day DC Climbs.

4.5 Day Emmons RouteÂ -Â Excellent for the strong beginner to intermediate climber with a very high level of fitness and stamina. The Emmons climb offers a more remote, aesthetic experience on a quieter side of the mountain. Expedition-style climbing requires a heavier pack than our standard DC program, but it’s well worth the effort.

Kautz RouteÂ – This exciting intermediate route includes ascending a 30-50 degree snow/ice chute. Because the Kautz is more demanding and technical than the standard routes, prerequisites include a prior summit of Mt. Rainier via the DC or Emmons (or a comparable glacier climb approved by IMG). Come test your mettle on this challenging route off the beaten path.

Advanced climbers will enjoy the challenge of more technical programs such as theÂ Fuhrer FingerÂ andÂ Liberty Ridge.

Additional training programs focusing on skills development include our,Â Glacier Skills Seminar,Â Mountaineering Day School,Â Advanced Mountaineering Day School, andÂ Crevasse Rescue School.

Check out ourÂ Rainier FAQÂ and click here to register!

Important details on the application process:

As you scan the dates please note that the already limited availability is due to the rescheduling of our 2020 climbers who had their climbs cancelled due to Covid-19.
Please note that the only way to apply for a spot on a Mt. Rainier program is to submit a completed Rainier application form and application fee.Â Absolutely no reservations or holds will be taken by phone.Â No exceptions.Â
Each application is time-stamped and processed in the order in which it is received. List your available dates in order of preference and if you are climbing with one or more partners, you’ll want to include each other’s names in the space provided on the application. It is best to send your applications all together in one email.Â Â
All fees are non-refundableÂ and non-transferable. We strongly advise that you purchase travel insurance that includes trip cancellation coverage toÂ protect your investment in the event you need to cancel.

IMG Team

2020 Mt. Rainier Season Is Wrapped…2021 Dates Out Soon

September 30, 2020

: Late summer Mt. Rainier ready for a winter blanket of snow! (Anna HIcks)

: IMG Guide Anna Hicks carrying her fair share…and then some. (Nicole Sims)

: Camp Muir with some fresh snow from last week’s storm. (Anna Hicks)

: IMG Guide Nicole Sims with a loaded pack. (Anna HIcks)

We’re happy to report that the 2020 Mt. Rainier season is wrapped.Â Our final climb came off the mountain yesterday, and our Camp Muir Teardown Team (Rikki Dunn, Anna Hicks, Peter Dale, Nicole Sims, Dan Reithmuller & Jay Lyons) all descended today after two hard days of work battening down the hatches up at Camp Muir.Â The weather last week was less than ideal (read horrendous), thankfully the storm passed and high pressure rolled in for our final climb and teardown. It’s not often that the end of the season is celebrated with ice cream…but it felt appropriate in the 80 degree weather we’re having here in Ashford.

Tip of the cap to all of the guides who worked their tails off this summer (of all summers) keeping things mountain-safe and covid-safe! It was no small effort.

2021 Rainier dates will be released in a couple weeks. Stay tuned.

Tye Chapman

Smokey Mountains

September 11, 2020

: Wednesday morning from Camp Muir (Anna Hicks)

: Thursday afternoon from Camp Muir (Anna Hicks)

: Friday morning from Camp Muir (Anna Hicks)

As a guide service we don’t spend a lot of time in the Smokey Mountains…unfortunately this year things are a little different.

As the wildfires burn across the Western US, we’ve been lucky. Not only have the fires avoided the Ashford area, the smoke hasn’t been nearly as bad as the surrounding area. And as you’d imagine, things on the upper mountain are significantly better.

We’ll continue to monitor the air quality index and will adjust accordingly.

Tye Chapman

Mt. Rainier Rarely Disappoints

September 4, 2020

: Early morning climbing on the upper mountain. (Jonathan Schrock)

: Climbers on the descent from the summit of Mt. Rainier. (Jonathan Schrock)

: Hard to beat a sunrise on Mt. Rainier! (Jonathan Schrock)

Like most guides, IMG Guide Jonathan Schrock bounces around quite a bit. This week he was on Mt. Rainier for a couple climbs (and a couple of summits) and snapped a few beautiful photos too good not to share.

He’s since departed for Bend, OR, but will be back for a few more climbs in the PNW to round out the summer.

All is well on Mt. Rainier!

Tye Chapman

Rainier 2021 Update

August 26, 2020

: Sunrise summit (Jay Lyons)

: Rainier climbers on the upper mountain (Austin Shannon)

: The summit crater (Nickel Wood)

: Happy climbers on the summit of Mt. Rainier (Andy Polloczek)

As this climbing season cruises along, we’ve been hard at work behind the scenes planning for 2021. We will be pushing out some more information in the coming weeks. In the meantime, if you want to climb Mt. Rainier with IMG in 2021 be sure to sign-up for our e-newsletter.

Hope you can join us on Mt. Rainier next summer!

Tye Chapman

Autumn Update-Nepal

August 24, 2020

Heading up Chukhung Ri with Nuptse and Lhotse behind (Eric Simonson)

We take very seriously the health and safety of our IMG team members and Sherpa staff and are closely monitoring the COVID-19 situation in the country.Â Unfortunately, the current situation in Nepal makes it impossible for us to operate our scheduled Autumn 2020 Nepal treks and climbs.Â We are looking forward to returning in the Spring of 2021 and will be happy to give you updated information as it comes in.Â If you would like to donate to our dedicated Sherpa staff in Nepal, who are looking at another season with no jobs, you can visit the link on our website: https://www.mountainguides.com/everest-south20.shtml

Greg Vernovage

Not All Heroes Wear Capes

August 13, 2020

: Cold Beer courtesy of Warren Wilhide

: Warren’s team (Warren Wilhide 2007)

: Working the Muir Snowfield (Warren Wilhide 2007)

: The route in 2007 went down below the cleaver (Warren Wilhide)

: Warren & Ang Dorjee on the summit of Rainier (Warren Wilhide 2007)

: IMG Guides Left to Right: Greg Vernovage, Eric Remza, Ang Dorjee Sherpa, Chris Meder

If you’ve climbed with IMG, or with any other guide service for that matter, you’ll agree that guides work hard, very hard. Obviously it’s great when their hard work is recognized with gratuity at the end of a climb, but it’s also great when the hard work is appreciated from afar, with a truly random act of kindness (two to be exact).

Twice this summer we got a message on facebook from longtime climber & friend of IMG, Warren Wilhide, who wanted to surprise the guides with some beer. Far be it from me to get in the way of free beer! I offered to pick up the the beer and figure out a way for him to pay me back, but Warren wasn’t messing around. He contacted a local bar and worked out a deal. 20 minutes later our guide lounge refrigerator was full of ice cold beer. Twice!

Thanks for making it happen Warren!

Tye Chapman

P.S. I looked through the archives and dug up some photos from Warren’s climb of Rainier from back in 2007. I was instantly reminded that the route dropped down below the Disappointment Cleaver that year making for “heartbreak hill’ to get back up to the Ingraham Flats on the way ‘down’.

IMG Denali 2021 Planning Well Underway

August 7, 2020

The last few steps to the summit of Denali in 2019 (Eric Simonson)

Getting back to guiding on Mt Rainier this past month has been a great boost for everyone at IMG after months of boring isolation.Â A big shout out to our hard working guides and staff, our fantastic IMG climbers, and the National Park Service for working to re-start climbing at Mt Rainier. Â It makes us feel hopeful again that there will be some more mountains in our future!

Speaking of which, we are now working on our 2021 Denali season planning.Â While many of the 2021 expedition slots have already been taken by 2020 climbers who rescheduled, we do have a few slots left on our May 14 and May 18 programs, and they are going fast.Â These mid-May departures typically make their summit bids in late May/early June which is normally a great time to climb! If you are a physically strong climber with solid skills (cramponing, glacier travel, crevasse rescue, cold weather experience, etc) then we hope you will consider joining us.Â Our Denali program director Nicole Sims is happy to discuss the trip with you in more detail, so please get in touch!

Eric Simonson

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