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Patience and Flexibility for the Everest Teams

March 29, 2021

Team 1 departing KTM (Ang Jangbu Sherpa)
Team 1 departing KTM (Ang Jangbu Sherpa)
Team 2 Meeting Photo (Ang Jangbu Sherpa)
Team 2 Meeting Photo (Ang Jangbu Sherpa)

IMG Teams 1 and 2 have been doing a fantastic job taking care of themselves in Kathmandu as they prepare to head for the Khumbu Valley.   IMG Guides Andy Politz and Kevin Kayl went to the Ministry and have now received the IMG climbing permits for Everest and Lhotse.  We are official now!  Team 1 members have all now passed their required COVID tests and are ready to go….but wait, there is another challenge for them!

2021 Lhotse Permit with Kevin Kayl (Ang Jangbu Sherpa)
2021 Lhotse Permit with Kevin Kayl (Ang Jangbu Sherpa)
2021 Everest Permit with Andy Politz (Ang Jangbu Sherpa)
2021 Everest Permit with Andy Politz (Ang Jangbu Sherpa)

There have been a great number of forest fires occurring in Nepal as a result of a very dry winter.  Due to the smokey air, all the Lukla flights have been grounded in KTM for the last three days with little sign of improvement.  The IMG Leaders put their thinking caps on and decided to pack up, load up into vehicles, and head east to Phaplu where the smoke conditions are better and from where they will have a better chance to fly into the Khumbu Valley.  It was all smiles this morning as they loaded up and drove out of town.  Team 1 is now in Phaplu (7,918 ft / 2,413 m) for the night and they will be up before first light to catch an early morning flight into the Khumbu.   IMG Trekking Sirdar  Sonam Sherpa is now in Lukla arranging porters and he reports some light rain which we hope will help to push down the smoke.   Team 2 will be getting their required COVID tests tomorrow and hopefully will be departing Kathmandu the following day.

Team 1 departing the hotel in KTM (Ang Jangbu Sherpa)
Team 1 departing the hotel in KTM (Ang Jangbu Sherpa)
Dinner in Phaplu (Phunuru Sherpa)
Dinner in Phaplu (Phunuru Sherpa)

Greg Vernovage

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Team 1 arrives in Kathmandu; Base Camp construction continuing

March 23, 2021

EBC coming together (Ang Pasang)
EBC coming together (Ang Pasang)
Storage Tent at EBC (Ang Pasang)
Storage Tent at EBC (Ang Pasang)

There is a ton of action going on in Nepal!  Expedition Leaders Jonathan Schrock and Ang Jangbu report that the members of the Team 1 arrived on time with all of their luggage, which is always great news! Over the next few days they will be keeping busy with gear checks and preparations.

Up at Everest Base Camp our Advanced Team have been enjoying beautiful weather which has allowed them to set up several of the big tents.  Ang Pasang arrived with his yaks to drop off another load of essential gear and sent us some great photos of the progress at EBC.

Gear in Storage at EBC (Ang Pasang)
Gear in Storage at EBC (Ang Pasang)
Oxygen in storage (Ang Pasang)
Oxygen in storage (Ang Pasang)

IMG Guides Kevin Kayl and Andy Politz departed the USA yesterday and are currently in route to Nepal, and the Team 2 will be arriving in the next couple days.

It’s great to see the expedition teams coming together!

Greg Vernovage

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Advanced Team at EBC; IMG Guides arriving to Kathmandu

March 3, 2021

Advanced Team heading to EBC (Karma Rita Sherpa)

Advanced Team heading to EBC (Karma Rita Sherpa)

There is a lot happening in Nepal now, as we prepare for our 2021 IMG Everest and Lhotse expeditions.  Up in the Khumbu, the Advanced Team led by Senior Guide Karma Rita Sherpa arrived to Everest Base Camp a couple of days ago and have started building the camp.  Their first job will be constructing large tent platforms for the kitchen and dining tents, which requires moving a lot of rocks and chopping a lot of ice!  Accompanying the Team to EBC was IMG stalwart Ang Pasang and his parade of yaks, carrying food, fuel, oxygen and equipment.  In the coming days Ang Pasang and his yaks will make several more round trips between Syangboche and EBC with additional supplies.

The Ang Pasang Yak Train (Ang Pasang Sherpa)

IMG guides Jonathan Schrock and Ang Dorjee Sherpa departed the USA yesterday and have just landed in KTM with all of their gear.  They will be working with Ang Jangbu, Pasang and Mohan to prepare for the arrival of our climbers and trekkers over the next few days.

We are excited to have our team together in Kathmandu soon!

Greg Vernovage

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Checking out the climbing route for Everest 2021

March 9, 2021

West Shoulder with ice block gone (Phunuru Sherpa)
West Shoulder with ice block gone (Phunuru Sherpa)
Upper Icefall (Phunuru Sherpa)
Upper Icefall (Phunuru Sherpa)

Phunuru checked in from Phortse where he has been doing some training with our guide team, as well as recently taking a really incredible helicopter ride up into the Western Cwm.  He reports that the Lhotse Face is in good shape and he said the precarious ice block that was hanging over the Icefall on the West Shoulder has released.  Great news!

Western Cwm 3-9-21 (Phunuru Sherpa)
Western Cwm 3-9-21 (Phunuru Sherpa)
Lhotse Face 3-9-21 (Phunuru Sherpa)
Lhotse Face 3-9-21 (Phunuru Sherpa)
Lhotse Face (Phunuru Sherpa)
Lhotse Face (Phunuru Sherpa)

Greg Vernovage

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IMG Preparations in full swing for Everest 2021

March 1, 2021

 

Repackaging oxygen for the trip to Base Camp on a yak (Ang Jangbu Sherpa)

Repackaging oxygen for the trip to Base Camp on a yak (Ang Jangbu Sherpa)

It’s March, and that means Everest season is just around the corner.  Over in Nepal, after a long hiatus, IMG Senior Guide Phunuru Sherpa and our other Phortse based guides and Sherpas are chomping at the bit to get back on Everest!  Now, they are preparing to start moving our equipment and supplies up to Everest Base Camp, and our advance Base Camp construction team will soon be moving up to begin building all of the tent platforms.

Phunuru and wife Kancha by their house in Phortse (Eric Simonson)

Phunuru and wife Kancha by their house in Phortse (Eric Simonson)

Just yesterday, the Icefall Doctors, employed by Sagarmatha Pollution Control Committee (SPCC) started their trek to Everest Base Camp.  Their job is to get a head start on the climbers, as they will be building the route through the Icefall in the coming weeks.  It’s a difficult task which requiring the installation of many ladders and ropes, and we wish them the best as they start this hard work.  Back at home here in the USA, our team is assembling the final loads of gear to send over to Nepal and looking forward to getting out the door ourselves.  We are ready to head to Mount Everest this Spring!

SPCC Icefall Doctors at their Base Camp puja (Phunuru Sherpa)

SPCC Icefall Doctors at their Base Camp puja (Phunuru Sherpa)

Greg Vernovage

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Mt Vinson January 2022 availability

February 24, 2021

Last steps to the top (Eric Simonson)

Last steps to the top (Eric Simonson)

There were NO Mt. Vinson programs operated this past season (with any company) due to COVID.  For that reason there is now a backlog of climbers wishing to climb Mt Vinson for the upcoming 2021-22 season, and there are only a very few seats remaining on the IL-76 flights to the ice. Our IMG November 2021 Mt Vinson trip with Justin Merle is filled. We are currently holding a few additional seats for our January 6, 2022 Mt Vinson trip with Jonathan Schrock. We are quite certain that all the Vinson seats will be sold in the next few weeks (with any operator).

If you want to climb Mt Vinson with IMG in the 2021-22 season, now is the time to commit. Please get in touch ASAP.  First come, first served!

Eric Simonson

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Escape to Bolivia!

February 16, 2021

Road to Illimani with the mountain in the distance (Harry Hamlin)
Road to Illimani with the mountain in the distance (Harry Hamlin)
Full moon over Huayna Potosi (Greg Vernovage)
Pequeno Alpamayo/Condoriri Base Camp (Greg Vernovage)
Pequeno Alpamayo/Condoriri Base Camp (Greg Vernovage)

Legend has it that Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid made a break for it, escaping the USA and heading to Bolivia to hide out after robbing banks.  We are all looking for places to go right now and we have a good looking team coming together for Bolivia.  We do not suggest robbing any banks to go down there but we do think this trip is a great bang for the buck!  Join IMG in Bolivia from July 18-30 (Illimani Extension July 31 – August 6, 2021)

Shoot us a note if you are interested here. (Get it? “shoot” us a note)

Greg Vernovage

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2021 Mt Rainier Season Kick Off

February 3, 2021

IMG Guide Jay Lyons contemplates Mt Rainier
A Denali Prep Seminar team practices dragging gear via sled

The summer Mt Rainier season is coming up fast! We’re busy at IMG HQ preparing to get our first Mt Rainier trip of 2021 in to the field this weekend. The sleds have been organized, the snowshoes arranged, and our team is ready for a week full of learning some of the most important skills that are key to success on Denali. Many people reach out asking about which boots are right for which trips, and we always direct them to this comprehensive article written by our very own Porter McMichael. If you’re unsure of which boot is best for which trip, this is the place to start.

 

Even with summer right around the corner, it is very much still winter and wintry conditions are expected to continue for some time yet. It’s not too late to get out into the snow! Are you thinking of climbing Denali? Come join us on our Mt Rainier Denali Prep Seminar on Mount Rainier. We’ve added dates and still have availability, but it’s going quick. Are you wanting to develop your backcountry ski/avalanche skills? Come join us for one of our AIARE Level 1 courses this spring, perfect prep for some Pacific North West Spring skiing.

 

Mt Rainier Denali Prep Seminar

Mar 6-12 (1 spot remaining)

Mar 20-26 (Just added)

 

AIARE Level 1

Feb 26-28 (2 spots remaining)

Mar 12-14

 

Happy Climbing

-The IMG Team

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IMG Everest 2021 Base Camp Reserved

December 17, 2020

IMG EBC 2021 with PK (Pega Sherpa)

IMG EBC 2021 with PK (Pega Sherpa)

Great news from Everest Base Camp came in this weekend!  IMG Guides Pega and PK Sherpa went to Everest Base Camp to reserve our site.  PK and Pega reported excellent conditions around our campsite and there are two clean water sources on the backside. They team spent the night in Gorakshep last night.

IMG Senior Guide Phunuru Sherpa has already put our guide team together for this Spring and will be sending the advanced team to EBC soon. The advanced team will go to Base Camp to start the long and difficult task of carving out tent platforms and setting up tents.  This is great news and we are happy to announce the 2021 Everest Season is underway!

Reserving EBC Campsite (Pega Sherpa)
Reserving EBC Campsite (Pega Sherpa)
Looking towards the Icefall from the 2021 EBC Campsite (Pega Sherpa)
Looking towards the Icefall from the 2021 EBC Campsite (Pega Sherpa)

Greg Vernovage

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That’s A Wrap For 2020

December 30, 2020

Happy Holidays!

On one hand it’s hard to believe 2020 is over, on the other hand it’s been one of the longest years on record! Like most businesses, here at IMG, we took our bumps & bruises in 2020. We missed more countries & rescheduled more climbs than we care to count, but we’re still here and looking forward to 2021… and beyond!

On the bright side of 2020, we were able to run over 30 Rainier climbs via the Disappointment Cleaver Route and a lot of climbs of Mt. Baker & Mt. Shuksan. It was a huge effort by the guides to maintain our Covid-19 protocols, but in their truest of forms, they knocked it out of the park. We’re taking all that we learned in 2020 and will use it as the foundation for our climbs in 2021. As such, we’ve got a full slate of programs scheduled for this winter in New England, Ouray, and on Mt. Rainier as well as spring climbs of Mt. Whitney, a full schedule of climbs and treks on Everest, a full summer of sold out climbs of Mt. Rainier, and an ever filling schedule of Mt. Baker, Mt. Shuksan and other climbs here in the PNW.

We fully recognize that things are still pretty fragile, and more fluid that we’d all like, but have a lot to be thankful for, and even more to look forward to.

See you in the mountains!

IMG Team

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