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Team 2 at EBC and Successful Dry Run for Team 1

April 19, 2021

Team 1 Preparing to depart EBC (Ang Jangbu Sherpa)

Team 1 Preparing to depart EBC (Ang Jangbu Sherpa)

Team 2 had a great day trekking back to EBC after a successful climb of Lobuche Peak over the weekend.  The Team will now have a couple days of rest before doing some ladder training and preparation to head up on their Dry Run.  It is a great feeling to get the summit of Lobuche under their belt.  The additional acclimatization and training on Lobuche will help the team when it comes time to head up the Khumbu Icefall on their first rotation.

EBC from Look Out Point (Ang Jangbu Sherpa)

EBC from Look Out Point (Ang Jangbu Sherpa)

Team 1 set the bar high for themselves during the morning of the Dry Run.  The energy felt in the pre-dawn hours at EBC is amazing.  Climbers put in months of training and hard work in preparation to climb Mount Everest and it starts happening now!  Expedition Leader Jonathan Schrock reported that all members were dialed and departed EBC 5 minutes before their scheduled departure time of 3AM. Backpacks on and walking out of camp at 2:55am!  The Team had perfect weather and had a great morning climbing half way up the Icefall before returning to Base Camp.  Great job Everyone!

Geneva Spur and South Col (Ang Jangbu Sherpa)

Geneva Spur and South Col (Ang Jangbu Sherpa)

Ang Jangbu reported that Camp 2 is looking good with the main tents now up and more Sherpa carrying loads up nearly every day.  We have 24 more Sherpa heading to Camp 2 tomorrow.  We also received an update has come in from the fixing team up on the Lhotse Face.  They have now got the route fixed up to the Geneva Spur (well above Camp 3)!  We  soon be sending several of our Sherpa up the Lhotse Face to evaluate the route and claim our Camp 3 campsite.

All is well on Mount Everest!

Greg Vernovage

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Lobuche Summits and Ladder Training at EBC

April 18, 2021

2021 Everest Panorama (Ang Jangbu Sherpa)

2021 Everest Panorama (Ang Jangbu Sherpa)

We received great news over night that Team 2 had a beautiful morning to summit Lobuche Peak.  The team climbed well and had perfect weather for their climb.  The Team is now resting back at Lobuche Base Camp and will plan on heading back to EBC in the morning for some more well-deserved rest.  We will pass along more photos when the team gets back to EBC!

Lobuche High Camp (Phunuru Sherpa)

Lobuche High Camp (Phunuru Sherpa)

Up at EBC, Expedition Leader Jonathan Schrock reports that Team 1 had a cool morning with great weather.  Perfect time to do some additional fixed line work and ladder training in preparation for their “Dry Run” up the Khumbu Icefall.  The Team has a 3am departure time from EBC for their “Dry Run.” Perfect time to continue dialing our system and getting into the morning routine.

Close up on ladder crossing (Jonathan Schrock)

Close up on ladder crossing (Jonathan Schrock)

Our Team at Camp 2 also wanted to let us know that they are making excellent progress with building Camp 2.  They have our cook tent and dining tent already set up and will be ready for the climbers when they get there.

 

All is well on Lobuche and Mount Everest!

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Holding Patterns on Lobuche and Everest

April 16, 2021

Pasang Kanchi Sherpa and Nima Doma Sherpa (Ang_Jangbu_Sherpa)

Pasang Kanchi Sherpa and Nima Doma Sherpa (Ang Jangbu Sherpa)

Changing weather at EBC (Ang Jangbu Sherpa)

Changing weather at EBC (Ang Jangbu Sherpa)

Up and down the Khumbu Valley, our IMG Teams woke up to snowfall this morning.   Up on Everest the Carry Team were heading for Camp 2,  but decided to drop their loads at Camp 1 and returned to EBC for the day.  The Camp 2 Staff were also heading up, but decided to stop at Camp 1 to wait out the snow and get in another night of acclimatization at Camp 1 before heading on to Camp 2 tomorrow.

At Everest Base Camp the Team 1 climbers also got their first full day of rest.  This Team has been working hard and with fresh snow on the ground, it was a perfect day to hang out and give their bodies some well-deserved R and R. Patience and flexibility is the name of the game at Mt Everest!

Snow at EBC (Ang Jangbu Sherpa)

Snow at EBC (Ang Jangbu Sherpa)

Down at Lobuche Base Camp, the snowfall prompted Team 2 to re-evaluate the conditions and they also decided to take a rest day at Lobuche Base Camp.  This will allow the snow on the slabs heading to High Camp the chance to melt off during the afternoon.  The weather forecast is favorable over the next couple days and Team 2 will be ready to climb tomorrow.

We would also like to take a moment today to introduce and welcome two of our newest Sherpani guides to the IMG Team.  Pasang Kanchi Sherpa and Nima Doma Sherpa have been training under the tutelage of IMG Senior Guide and KCC Instructor Phunuru Sherpa for many years, and we look forward to working with them on Mt Everest.

All is well on Mount Everest and Lobuche!

Greg Vernovage

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Team 1 up to EBC and Team 2 down to LBC

April 15, 2021

Summit Panorama from Lobuche (Phunuru Sherpa)

Summit Panorama from Lobuche (Phunuru Sherpa)

Team 2 Puja (Kevin Kayl)

Team 2 Puja (Kevin Kayl)

Team 2 started the day with another Puja under beautiful skies.  Team Leader Kevin Kayl reports the team is doing great after a couple days of good training and a few nights of good sleep at Everest Base Camp.  After the Puja, the team headed down valley to Lobuche Base Camp to prepare for their climb.  Our Trekking Team also headed out and trekked down as far as Lobuche Village before saying farewell to the climbers and continuing to Pheriche.  The Team 2 climbers will head to High Camp in the morning to get in position for an alpine start the next day, while the Trekkers will continue to Namche, this time via Tengboche to visit the famous monastery on their way downhill.

After their successful Lobuche summits yesterday, Team 1 had a casual morning at Lobuche Base Camp, enjoying an extra cup of tea or coffee and celebrating their climb.  Then, after packing up, Team 1 trekked back to EBC, bringing with them some new photos from their Lobuche climb.  They will now enjoy a couple well deserved rest days before preparing to do their Dry Run up the Khumbu Icefall.

Climbers descending from the summit of Lobuche (Nawang_Tenzing Sherpa)
Climbers descending from the summit of Lobuche (Nawang_Tenzing Sherpa)
Climbers nearing the summit of Lobuche (Phunuru Sherpa)
Climbers nearing the summit of Lobuche (Phunuru Sherpa)

All is well in the Khumbu Valley!

Greg Vernovage

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Lobuche Summits, EBC Training, Camp 2 carries

April 4, 2021

On the way to High Camp on Lobuche Peak (Harry Hamlin)
On the way to High Camp on Lobuche Peak (Harry Hamlin)
On the way to the summit of Lobuche Peak (Harry Hamlin)
On the way to the summit of Lobuche Peak (Harry Hamlin)

Ang Jangbu reports from Everest Base Camp that our Teams are enjoying perfect weather for climbing and training!  Down at Lobuche Peak we had 100% Team 1 success this morning with all climbers and guides standing on top, enjoying a fantastic view of Everest.  They said that there is now only room for three people at a time to stand on the summit, as apparently a piece of the summit snow blob has fallen off!

Team Two training at EBC (Kevin Kayl)

Team Two training at EBC (Kevin Kayl)

Back up on Everest, our first big load carrying push was successful with a large team of Sherpas reaching Camp 2 and descending safely to Base Camp.  Well done!  Team Two had a training day on the ice near EBC and IMG leader Kevin Kayl says the team did well working out the bugs with their rigging and ice climbing before they head down to Lobuche Peak tomorrow.

All’s well at Everest!

Eric Simonson

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Puja Day on Mount Everest

April 12, 2021

Training obstacle course (Jonathan Schrock)
Training obstacle course (Jonathan Schrock)
Beautiful day for training (Ang Jangbu Sherpa)
Beautiful day for training (Ang Jangbu Sherpa)

It has been busy over the weekend at Everest Base Camp.  Expedition Leader Jonathan Schrock reports that Team 1 did some excellent training on the Lower Khumbu Glacier to fine tune their crampon and fixed rope skills,  before heading back down to Lobuche Base Camp for their acclimatization climb of Lobuche Peak.  This morning at Everest Base Camp also marked the Sherpa team’s traditional Puja Ceremony for good luck on the mountain.

Puja Dancing with the alter (Jonathan Schrock)
Puja Dancing with the alter (Jonathan Schrock)
Team 1 Puja (Ang Jangbu Sherpa)
Team 1 Puja (Ang Jangbu Sherpa)

Moving up to Everest Base Camp today was Team 2, after spending several days of acclimatization hiking in the Lobuche BC area.   Along the way they exchanged greetings on the trail with Team 1 heading downhill.   Team 2 is now settling in for a few days of rest and training at Everest Base Camp, and then in a few days they will also be headed back down to climb Lobuche Peak.  It takes time to get well acclimatized, and every day our climbers spend on the trail, at Lobuche Peak, and training on the glacier is “money in the bank”.  We feel strongly that there is no reason for anyone to be heading up the Icefall to Camps 1 & 2 until they are well prepared and acclimatized!

Team 2 at dinner time (Ang Jangbu Sherpa)

Team 2 at dinner time (Ang Jangbu Sherpa)

With their puja accomplished and our Sherpa team ready, tomorrow will mark the beginning of moving gear above EBC.  Ang Jangbu says that we have 28 Sherpas prepared to make their first carry to Camp 1 in the morning.  The team is excited and ready to get to work building Camp 1!

Beautiful weather and a lot going on at Everest Base Camp!

Greg Vernovage

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Team 2 to LBC and Team 1 to EBC!

April 9, 2021

2021 Everest Panorama (Ang Jangbu Sherpa)

2021 Everest Panorama (Ang Jangbu Sherpa)

IMG Expedition Leader Jonathan Schrock checked in with great news from Everest Base Camp.  Team 1 pulled into EBC at the six hour mark.  Everyone is happy to be at Base Camp with a full belly from Kaji’s cooking.  All members of the IMG Team, including climbers, trekkers and Nepalese staff have been tested for COVID-19 several times along the way to EBC and results have all been negative.  We will continue to be strict with our protocols.

Team 1 above Lobuche Base Camp (Jonathan Schrock)
Team 1 above Lobuche Base Camp (Jonathan Schrock)
Team 1 arrives to EBC (Ang Jangbu Sherpa)
Team 1 arrives to EBC (Ang Jangbu Sherpa)

Morning view of EBC with Everest (Ang Jangbu Sherpa)

Morning view of EBC with Everest (Ang Jangbu Sherpa)

The early season weather is showing normal patterns according to Jonathan.  Calm, clear mornings; perfect for trekking and then slowly trending to slightly overcast with a breeze in the afternoon.

Trekking through Gorakshep (Jonathan Schrock)

Trekking through Gorakshep (Jonathan Schrock)

Team 2 had a great day trekking from Pheriche to Lobuche Base Camp and everyone is doing well and settling in for a few nights.  The lodges we visit during the trek are great but there is something about moving into tents at Lobuche Base Camp and having our own kitchen and dining facilities.  Home cooking and quiet nights at 15,000 feet are just a couple of the things we love about these camps.

Tomorrow is a rest day for both teams and they will get moved into their tents and familiarize themselves with the IMG Base Camp!

 

Greg Vernovage

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Another Productive Day on Everest

April 4, 2021

Pheriche with Lobuche Peak and Cho Oyu in the distance (Austin Shannon)

Pheriche with Lobuche Peak and Cho Oyu in the distance (Austin Shannon)

The IMG Teams are doing great in Pheriche, Lobuche Base Camp and Everest Base Camp.  Team 2 took  a hike up the hill behind Pheriche and are planning on moving up hill to Lobuche BC in the morning.  Team 1 also hiked back up towards high camp and are feeling great.  They will pack up and head to Everest Base Camp tomorrow.

At EBC, Ang Jangbu and the team have been busy.  They have now completed building the tent platforms and took advantage of the beautiful day to build the lower helipad.  Nice work!  We continue to celebrate the hard work of Sherpa Fura and Dawa Tenzing who secured out campsites at Camp 1 and Camp 2.

Sherpa Fura (Ang Jangbu Sherpa)
Sherpa Fura (Ang Jangbu Sherpa)
Dawa Tenzing (Ang Jangbu Sherpa)
Dawa Tenzing (Ang Jangbu Sherpa)

All is well in the Khumbu Valley and on Mount Everest!

Greg Vernovage

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Updates from Everest Base Camp

April 4, 2021

Looking towards Lhotse Face from Camp 2 (Sherpa Fura)

Looking towards Lhotse Face from Camp 2 (Sherpa Fura)

Ang Jangbu got a call through this morning from Everest Base Camp to let us know the internet is up and running and all is well up and down the valley.  Dawa Tenzing and Sherpa Fura had a great day climbing to Camp 2 yesterday to secure our campsites and recon the Icefall, Western Cwm and Lhotse Face.   They report that the Icefall is in good shape with a number of twists and turns as usual, but that it has (get ready for this) only ONE ladder right now.  “Can you believe that?!”  It is early in the season and we all know the Icefall will do a bit of adjusting and route changing as the season continues but having only one ladder is pretty remarkable.

IMG Senior Guide Karma Rita Sherpa (Greg Vernovage)

IMG Senior Guide Karma Rita Sherpa (Greg Vernovage)

Ang Jangbu says that IMG’s 2021 Everest Base Camp is looking good and is all ready for the arrival of Team 1.  A big shout out to the Advanced Team under the leadership of Senior Guide Karma Rita Sherpa for all of their hard work getting the camp prepared!

Back down at Lobuche Base Camp, Team 1 took a trek today partway up to High Camp on Lobuche for additional acclimatization, and 5 of our guides  continued all the way to High Camp to evaluate the conditions and check the water source.  Everything looks good for the climb of Lobuche Peak in a few days, after the climbers first visit Everest Base Camp.

Lobuche Base Camp with Ama Dablam in the distance (Ang Jangbu Sherpa)
Lobuche Base Camp with Ama Dablam in the distance (Ang Jangbu Sherpa)
Lobuche Peak (Ang Jangbu Sherpa)
Lobuche Peak (Ang Jangbu Sherpa)

Looking up valley from Pheriche with Cholatse (left) and_Lobuche (right) (Sonam Dore Sherpa)

Looking up valley from Pheriche with Cholatse (left) and Lobuche (right) (Sonam Dorje Sherpa)

Team 2, led by Senior Guide Kevin Kayl pulled into Pheriche in excellent form and will settle in for a couple nights of acclimatization.  Tomorrow the team will take a hike up the hill behind Pheriche to get a better look at Lobuche Peak and Dingboche, which is just over the hill.  They will also say hello to the medical team at the Pheriche HRA clinic and hear more about acclimatization.

All is well in the Khumbu Valley and on Mount Everest!

Greg Vernovage

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Camps 1 and 2 Established

April 6, 2021

Khumbu Icefall March 2021 (Phunuru Sherpa)
Khumbu Icefall March 2021 (Phunuru Sherpa)
Western Cwm March 2021 (Phunuru Sherpa)
Western Cwm March 2021 (Phunuru Sherpa)

We received welcome news overnight that Sherpas Fura and Dawa Tenzing successfully reached Camp 2 yesterday and returned back to Base Camp.  They report the route up the Khumbu Icefall is in good shape and that our Camps 1 and 2 are secured.  Well done!

The high trail from Phortse to Pangboche (Eric Simonson)

The high trail from Phortse to Pangboche (Eric Simonson)

Lower down both our IMG Teams were on the move today in the Khumbu Valley.  Kevin Kayl checked in from Pangboche to let us know that Team 2 are doing well after a nice trek on the high trail from Phortse.  After lunch they visited Lama Ngawang Paljur at the Pangboche monastery and received their blessing.  Tomorrow the team will head to Pheriche for a couple nights of acclimatization.

 

Lobuche Base Camp (Greg Vernovage)

Lobuche Base Camp (Greg Vernovage)

 

Up valley a little further, Jonathan Schrock checked in via satellite phone from IMG’s Lobuche Base Camp to report that the Team 1 is doing great and the camp looks awesome.  This will be the first night of actual camping for the team, and they will enjoy the peace and quiet of this lovely area.  The team will spend an important three days and nights at Lobuche Base Camp doing acclimation hiking and taking in the beautiful views of the upper valley.  They may also climb up higher, towards the Lobuche High Camp, to familiarize themselves with the climbing route and gain a little more altitude practice before pushing on up to Everest Base Camp.

Sunset from Lobuche Base Camp (Harry Hamlin)

Sunset from Lobuche Base Camp (Harry Hamlin)

All is well in the Khumbu Valley and on Mount Everest!

Greg Vernovage

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