Bad Weather On The Mountain

June 5, 2025

Fixed Lines, heading to 17K (Peter Dale)

The weather has not been a friend to Teams 1 (Swanson) and 2 (Bond) on this trip. After waiting eight days for a weather window to make a break for 17 Camp and then for the summit, they have both had to make the decision to descend. While this isn’t ever what we hope for when we set out on an expedition, the weather has been particularly poor so far in 2025 and climber safety is always the central consideration in everything we do.

Teams 3 (Dale) and 4 (Phillips) still have a chance at the summit, and are planning to carry to 13 camp tomorrow. This should keep them on track to take advantage of any upcoming breaks in the weather that may hit on the upper mountain in the next week. Team 5 (Madison) arrives in Anchorage tomorrow.

Conditions Continue

June 3, 2025

Looking Southwest from 14K Camp at the inspiring Mt. Foraker (17,398′). Photo by Stu Johnson.

Conditions on the mountain remain the same as they’ve been the past few days, and all teams remain in place. However, there’s good weather in the near future!

Teams 1 and 2 are looking toward later this week for possible summit windows as a temporary ridging weather pattern crosses over southern Alaska. With their gear already cached near high camp, the teams are able to quickly mobilize and move to 17 camp for an attempt on the summit.

This same pattern should allow Teams 3 and 4 to ascend further, and continue their progress up the mountain.

Here’s to wishing them good luck and good weather!

All Remain at Camp

June 2, 2025

Group Kitchen, dinner family style.

All four teams have been blocked by inclement weather for another day. Teams 1 and 2 (Swanson and Bond) remain at 14 Camp where they’ve been hanging out, snacking, and performing general camp maintenance for several days. Team 3 (Dale) is hunkered down at Ski Hill Camp, and Team 4 (Phillips) is doing the same at 10 Camp. Both will use the time well to acclimate, bond as a team, and make plans for the next weather window ascent.

IMGD Teams Are Making Upwards Progress

Morning sun illuminates the clouds while climbers pass Kahiltna Dome on the Lower Kahiltna Glacier (Stu Johnson).

Another day of progress for our four teams on Denali. Team 3 (Dale) and Team 4 Custom (Phillips) will be carrying gear to cache at 9,800 feet today in order to lighten their loads when they move from Ski Hill Camp at 7,600 feet to 11K camp. The day following their move to 11K Camp (weather permitting) they will back-carry, walking down from 11K Camp with mostly empty backpacks to pickup the gear they cached (by burying it in the snow) the day before. Team 1 (Swanson) and Team 2 (Bond) are patiently anticipating improved weather while they rest and recuperate at 14K Camp. With their gear cached, all four teams are in an excellent position to move higher on the mountain as the weather improves. Check back in the coming days to follow everyone’s progress!

IMGD Teams 3 and 4 Are On – Teams 1 and 2 Cache at 16K

May 31st, 2025

: Team 3 led by Peter Dale ready to catch their flight in Talkeetna to the Kahiltna Glacier. (P Dale)

: Custom Team 4 led by Timm Phillips about to board the Otter aircraft – equipped with ski landing gear – at the airport in Talkeetna.

Teams 1 (Swanson) and 2 (Bond) successfully completed a carry day from 14K Camp to a cache spot on 16K Ridge. Now, as a weather system passes over Denali, they are nestled in at 14K Camp, knowing they have set themselves up for success higher on the mountain. Activities during storms involve maintaining camp (lots of shoveling), napping, snacking, and the occasional game of cards! All the while our climbers continue to acclimatize in preparation for better weather and the opportunity to move higher on the mountain. Lower down, Team 3 led by Peter Dale has arrived at Kahiltna International Airport – the only international airport on a glacier! They will begin their ascent in the coming hours once sleds are rigged and snowshoes are strapped, heading towards their first camp at approximately 7,600 feet. Not far behind is our custom climb Team 4 led by Timm Phillips, who will be following close behind Team 3. All is well on Denali – we are eager for better weather to prevail and for our teams to continue moving up the great mountain!

IMGD Teams 1 and 2 at 14K Camp – Teams 3 + 4 Ready in Talkeetna

May 30, 2025

Team 4 stands together in front of the hotel

Teams 1 and 2 are still waiting out weather at 14 Camp. A weather window looks to open up tomorrow, allowing them to carry to 16K Ridge in the morning. Beyond that, current weather patterns will likely keep them from ascending further for a little while longer, but a summit attempt is still in the cards!

Team 3 is also weathered in in Talkeetna today, and waiting for a window to fly onto the Kahiltna Glacier.

Team 4 Custom has joined Team 3 in Talkeetna today.

IMG Denali can arrange custom programs for climbing groups of any size up to 8. Our custom programs are tailored to the groups needs and can be a great way to have a unique experience with a group of friends, family, or coworkers! To inquire about your 2026 custom program, send us an email at: office@mountainguides.com

Team 4 Lands in Anchorage!

May 29, 2025

Team 1 is resting at 14 camp today, as they wait for a weather window to carry their first load of gear to high camp.

Team 2 is in much the same position as team 1. They are also resting at 14 Camp, and will likely continue to await better weather through tomorrow.

Team 3 is headed to Talkeetna! There they will wait for a weather window to fly onto the mountain and begin their ascent.

Team 4, led by Timm Phillips, has arrived in Alaska! They will do their gear check this afternoon, and then have a team dinner to get to know each other tonight.

Team 3 taking a well deserved rest in the Seattle airport this morning.

Team 3 Arrives in Alaska!

Group 3 Gear Check at the Lakefront Hotel in Anchorage

Team 3 Gear Check at the Lakefront Hotel in Anchorage

May 28, 2025 –

Team 3, led by Peter Dale, has arrived in Anchorage! There are still two groups left to fly out, but we have officially launched over half of our 2025 Denali/McKinley teams.

Team 1 is retrieving their cached goods from 13,000 Camp today, and tonight should be their second to last night at 14 Camp. They’ll be being joined by Team 2 this evening, as they make their first ascent to 14 camp.

Continued Climbing

View from Motorcycle hill looking back to 11000′ camp and Mt Foraker in the background. (Eric Simonson)

May 27, 2025

IMG Denali teams 1 and 2 are still only one day apart!

Team 1 are headed to 14,000 camp for the night. After caching supplies yesterday, they’re acclimated and have had a chance to store some of their supplies higher up the mountain.

Team 2 spent today caching their own supplies! Ideally, these two groups will remain staggered like this all the way to the summit, and be able to overlap and offer camaraderie and support to each other throughout the trip.

Team 3, led by Peter Dale, will fly into Anchorage tomorrow morning, so keep an eye out for a new team to track!

Update from Denali/McKinley!

May 25th, 2025

11K camp located at the bottom of Motorcycle Hill.

Both IMG Denali teams are currently camped and operating out of the 11,000′ camp.

Team 1 made a carry up Motorcycle Hill and around the famous Windy Corner today to supply their next cache, located at 13,500′.
Team 2 reached the 11,000′ camp yesterday and are currently back-carrying to retrieve items cached at Kahiltna Pass.

No doubt both teams will be swapping stories and enjoying some camaraderie over dinner tonight!