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How Can I Lighten My Pack?

Yup that's a ladder! (Photo by Jeremy Bruan)

The average pack weight for our Rainier climbers is roughly 35-40lbs for our 3.5 day climbs via Camp Muir and the Disappointment Cleaver and roughly 50-55lbs for our Emmons or Kautz Climbers. Below are a few techniques and tips that will help you shave some weight from your pack.

  • A lot of people ask if their ski jacket and ski pant will work for the required stormshell layers. The short answer is yes. The long answer is yes but you might want to consider other options: the average ski jacket and ski pants usually weigh twice (sometimes more) what the simplest Gore-tex shell layers do. Consider renting or buying lightweight Gore-tex layers. (Saves 1-2lbs)
  • Leave the crampon case behind. They’re great while traveling, but should typically be left in the car while the crampons are strapped to your pack itself. (Saves 4oz.)
  • Toiletries: most of this can and should be left at home. All you’ll need on the climb is a small toothbrush and a small tube of toothpaste along with any other absolute must haves… You’ll live without deodorant, lotion, bug spray, facewash, nail trimmers, q-tips, etc. (Saves TBA)
  • Sunscreen: You do not need an 8oz tube. For a 3 or 4 day climb a simple 1oz tube along with some chapstick will do just fine. (Saves 7oz)
  • How heavy is your actual pack? Some packs weigh in at 7lbs while others come in at 3 or 4lbs. Consider upgrading your pack to save the weight. (Saves 3lbs)
  • Personal Food: Don’t try to save weight here. Bring foods you like to eat! Do spend some time thinking/planning your snack consumption for the trip.
  • Sleeping Bags: Again there are tons of sleeping bags that will work, but the weight:cost ratio comes back into play here. Example: Feathered Friends 10 Degree Raven bag (2lbs 5oz) vs. other comparable 10 Degree bags in the 3-4lb+ range. (Saves 1lb+)
  • The insulated (puffy) jacket. There are a lot of options on the market these days that are ultralight and others that are ultraheavy… For a typical Rainier climb you don’t need the Antarctica Down Suit of jackets, a quality mid-weight puffy is what we’re looking for. A hood is strongly recommended. We rent the Outdoor Research Chaos (21-24oz.). (Possible weight savings 8oz.)
  • Extra clothes: you don’t need extra underwear, extra long underwear, extra t-shirts, etc. By the end of the climb we all stink and that’s ok – it sure beats dragging unnecessary items up and down the mountain. (Saves 1lb).
  • Cup, bowl, spoon. That’s it for your kitchen needs.
  • Compass & GPS: Keep it simple here. Unless you like to follow along these can be left behind. (Saves 6oz)
  • Camera, phone, batteries, etc.: Photos are important to everybody so definitely bring your small camera and an extra battery. Cumbersome cameras, lenses get in the way and actually result in fewer photos being taken.

So you can see there are lots of ways to save weight when packing for your next climb. A lot of these come at a financial cost but others are simple and productive. Do your research and you’ll be just fine!

—
Tye Chapman
Operations Manager

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Spotlight On Bhutan (By Phil Ershler)

People ask me – “Why go to Bhutan?”

Every trip doesn’t have to involve carrying heavy packs and doing all the work ourselves.  Once in a while, it’s nice to just go trekking.  With our experienced Sherpa and Bhutanese crew, the team members can relax a bit and simply concentrate on enjoying the people, the country and the experience.  No need to set up tents, carry heavy loads and worry about camp chores such as cooking and cleaning.  Members carry only what’s needed for any given day.  What a pleasure.

Additionally, treks like the one we do in Bhutan give us an opportunity to share the experience with a spouse, friend, son or daughter who may not have the mountaineering skills required for many more involved trips.  Add to all this the fact that a country like Bhutan sees a much smaller number of tourists than many other locations.  And talk about exotic, I can’t think of many locals higher on the ‘exotic’ scale than Bhutan.  Add it all up and you’ve got the makings for a great adventure (read about a past trek here).

Thinking about going yourself? See IMG’s upcoming Bhutan Dates.

Phil Ershler

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Mt. Rainier “Denali Seminar” – Day 5

April 16, 2009

As planned the team awoke at 4am, had a quick breakfast and started out in the early morning…

The route they were heading up was ‘Gib Ledges’; a popular early season & winter route. As the team approached Gib Chute they stopped to evaluate the snow conditions. Guides Mark Allen and Ben Kurdt noted a significant wind slab had formed and the stability wasn’t what they were hoping for. Add in the solar radiation from Gibralter Rock and you’ve got a nasty mix of avy terrain and rockfall hazard. Needless to say the team turned at this point and returned safely to Camp Muir.

The summit will have to wait.

The final day of the seminar is tomorrow and with some unstable weather forecasted the team anticipates an early departure downhill from Muir in the morning.

All is well on Mt. Rainier…

Tye Chapman
Operations Manager

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Mt. Rainier “Denali Seminar” – Day 4

April 15, 2009

I spoke with Lead Guide Mark Allen today and the sun at Camp Muir continues to shine!

Blueberry pancakes and fried bacon woke the team up and fueled them for another solid training day, but an early dinner and a 4am wake-up call will put the team in their sleeping bags a little early tonight as they hope to take a shot at the summit early tomorrow morning.

Temps at Muir are ranging from the high single digits to the high teens with wind speeds in the teens to twenties. They are above the clouds and in the sun. Forecasted temps on the summit are hovering around 0 with winds forecasted in the high teens to twenties.

We’ll know more in the morning…

That’s all for now…

Tye Chapman
Operations Manager

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Mt. Rainier “Denali Seminar” Pulls Into Camp Muir

Photo Courtesy Mark Allen (Winter Camp Muir 2008)Lead Guide Mark Allen called in on the sat phone from Camp Muir a few minutes ago…

The Team had a great day hiking up to Muir. The trail-breaking wasn’t too bad after the last couple days of snow. It’s sunny and warm with minimal wind up there now!

The plan is to do some more training tomorrow then evaluate their options for the remaining days on the mountain. On the menu tonight: Pot Roast, mashed potatoes and some snap peas!

All is well on Mt. Rainier…

—
Tye Chapman
Operations Manager

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Another Storm Holds Up Mt. Rainier “Denali Seminar”

April 13, 2009

Denali like conditions kept our next “Denali Seminar” in camp today.

Photo Courtesy Adam AngelI drove the team to the Paradise Parking Lot in Mt. Rainier National Park yesterday in very winter like conditions… Not the Spring Easter we were hoping for. Some fresh snow was covering the freshly plowed parking lot as the team loaded the packs and rigged up the sleds… Into the snow they went.

Day 1 (Sunday) – The objective on Day 1 is to get to their first camp which is typically located near Panorama Point. Lead guide Mark Allen called in yesterday to report that they had indeed arrived at their first camp and actually went a little higher…they are currently near the top of  “Pan” at roughly 7000ft.

Day 2 (Monday) – Mark radioed in this morning to say that they plan to hang tight for a day, do some training and see if the forecast for improving weather is correct…

Day 3 through 6 – TBA…

Stay tuned…

—
Tye Chapman
Operations Manager

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Lhotse Team Rested & Ready To Move

April 10, 2009

Lhotse Guide Greg Vernovage Reports (4:36am PST)

All is very well here in Namche.  We woke to quite a blanket of snow this morning. It was great.  Started last evening and continued.

Yesterday after a short walk, the sky came tumbling in, just as had I ordered.  The exact words I used were, “Championship nap weather” and it did not disappoint – cold wind and some rain & snow.  The group showered up before dinner just up from a nap, hungry, but most importantly the only dry people in the place.  I love when things go as planned.

The gang is doing just great.  Happy, eating and resting.  The Namche market started this afternoon and runs through tomorrow, but it is time for us to move on up.  It is a great place here in Namche.  Some shopping, warm showers and another good nap are in order followed by some last minute purchases and even a shave by one of the team by the local barber.

On the menu is some good warm tea and probably a few sizzlers (Yak or Chicken).  What a great spot.  Everything is in place and we are laughing.

Greg

Current Time In Nepal


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A Beautiful Day On Top Of Mt. Whitney

April 8, 2009

On Monday we summitted Mt. Whitney.

Day 1: Ten virtual strangers met in the Mt. Whitney Cafe in Lone Pine, CA for breakfast on Friday… after some bacon and eggs we sorted our gear, repacked and made the 16 mile drive up the Whitney Portal Road.  Once at the trailhead we loaded up our packs and started the climb… and getting to know each other.

The summer route is quite different than the conditions we were climbing in… On a typical day in the summer it’s not uncommon to find a couple hundred hikers to be making their way up Mt. Whitney… but on a cold Spring snow covered day we saw nobody. Snowshoes are almost standard for the Sierras this time of year but luckily we were able to go without… Four hours and we were at camp (Lower Boy Scout Lake 10,000ft). We set up our tents and Bernd and Chris fired up the stoves for some “hots” or hot drinks. After we settled-in, we enjoyed some spicy noodles in a peanut sauce for dinner. An hour or two of getting to know each other quickly faded as the temperature dropped.

Lower Boy Scout Lake Camp Sam and Jeff - Day 2

Day 2: After a cold night’s sleep, a warm cup of cocoa lifts anybody’s spirits! Day two has begun. It isn’t a big day 10,000ft to 12,000ft, but it’s a great way to gain some more altitude and continue acclimatizing. We pulled into our second camp (Upper Boy Scout Lake) around 2:00pm – plenty of time to set up the tents, get settled, and relax. The weather was perfect! The sun drops behind the ridge at about 5:00 so we had an early dinner of tortellini’s and a quick summit meeting to discuss the plan of attack the following morning.

Day 3: Summit Day. Up at 3:30am, “hots” and breakfast at 4:00 and walking at about 4:30 – a pretty efficient team! The first part of the climb was standard snow travel – some traversing and some switchbacks… Once we reached our first break it was time to rope-up. After an hour or so of some steep climbing up the gully we reached our first big objective of the day: The Notch. We took a good break at The Notch while the Chris, Bernd and George established the fixed lines from The Notch to the summit. The last 200 meters is steep enough to use ascenders on the fixed lines to safely reach the summit…on this route…this time of year

.A view up at The Notch Halfway up the gully

The Summit: 10 for 10 on top! Not a breath of wind, warm and sunny! Absolutely spectacular. After an hour or so of sharing stories and taking pictures we made our way back to camp for some time in the sun and a nice hot dinner. We slept well!

Day 4: 6:30am – an early start to get back to Lone Pine for a beer and some pzza. By noon we were in Lone Pine with 3 large pizzas and a pitcher of beer (Sierra Nevada of course) in front of us…by 12:30 they were gone. Ten strangers now friends.

A long way down!

Guides: George Dunn, Bernd Zeugswetter, Chris Werner

Climbers: Catherine, Jeff, Paul, Sam, Scott, Tim and me tagging along.

—-
Tye Chapman
Operations Manager

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Lhotse Team Moving To Namche

April 7, 2009

Lhotse Lead Guide Greg Vernovage called in a few minutes (6am Nepal Time) ago to report that the team had a smooth flight from Kathmandu into Lukla yesterday and are currently en route to Namche (from Phakding). The weather is “perfect”. Greg says that the team is doing well and are anxious to get moving…

Lukla Airport

Today the team has the “Namche Hill” to look forward to – their first physical test of the trip. It’s a beautiful hike that includes their first view of Everest! Once in Namche they’ll have 2 active rest days to explore the surrounding area and the town itself (market, shops, restaurants, etc.) After three nights in Namche they’ll be well rested, acclimitized and ready to move higher.

Namche

That’s all for now…

—
Tye Chapman
Operations Manager

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Denali Seminar Weathing The Storm(s)…

April 1, 2009

Our Mt. Rainier Denali Seminar snuck up to Paradise during a small weather window on Monday. Since then they’ve been training down low on the mountain hoping for some better conditions which would allow them to move up to Camp Muir. So far, that hasn’t been the case, as storms have been moving through the region dumping lots of snow in the Cascades.

And with the storms came the wind…yesterday the winds at Camp Muir averaged (for a couple hours) over 100mph with gusts up to 140mph! So it’s a good thing the team wasn’t up there.

Lead Guide Eric Stevenson radioed in this morning and said team was taking advantage of the situation and working on some avalanche hazard evaluation and some avalanche transceiver techniques.

All is well on Mt. Rainier!

Tye Chapman
IMG Operations Manager

Mt. Rainier (IMG Stock Photo)

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