They “Slayed The Sleeping Lady” – Ixtaccuiatl

November 12, 2009

Peter Anderson, IMG Senior Guide, reported in last night from the city of Puebla. Safety and success was the message. In Peterâ€™s words, â€œwe slayed the â€˜sleeping ladyâ€™â€. â€˜Sleeping ladyâ€™ is a name used for Ixtacciuatl. Even though the ascent from high camp wasnâ€™t that long, it is a long day. Up to the summit, back to high camp, pack, walk back to the road and then drive to Puebla. But itâ€™s all worthwhile with Ixta in the rear view mirror.

Orizaba (Photo: Mike Heritage)

Today, the teamâ€™s off to the town of Tlachichuca. A nice lunch with our Mexican partners, the Reyes family, and then itâ€™s off to the Piedre Grande refugio. Orizaba, their next objective, will be waiting for them early Friday morning.

Letâ€™s hope the good news continues. One down and one to go.

Phil Ershler

Mt. Rainier Winter Expedition Seminars

November 6, 2009

Our Winter Expeditions take place in mid-winter: January and February. It’s a great opportunity to climb Rainier when conditions can be quite extreme, providing valuable experience in cold weather, high altitude conditions. IMG Partners EricÂ Simonson and GeorgeÂ Dunn developed the Winter Expedition Seminar as guides on Mt. Rainier in the mid-eighties and have refined it into the program it is today.
Photo by Adam Angel

Mt. Rainer is the ultimate winter challenge with its world record snowfall and rules supreme as the premiere training ground for North American climbers. This program ascends Mt. Rainier in expedition fashion using two or more camps along the way at progressively higher altitudes. We incorporate avalanche level 1 training material into the climb to offer in depth snow training and avalanche risk assessment. This program has two primary goals: to attempt to climb, survive and summit the mountain, and to spend a significant amount of time learning skills and training. Weather can potentially limit our ability to climb higher at any step of the way, but this allows for more time spent training and learning skills to survive what the mountain throws at us. Winter Expedition Climbs ascend through the Muir Corridor (Ingraham Glacier, Disappointment Cleaver, and Gibraltar Ledges routes), but the selected route is weather and snow pack dependent. Camp Muir is always used as the high base for our summit attempts.

Think you’ve got what it takes?

Camp Muir in the Winter (Photo by IMG Guide Mark Allen)

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Tye Chapman
Operations Manager

How Do You Pronounce Ouray?

October 30, 2009

The home to some of North America’s premier ice climbing each and every winter is in a small town in Southwestern Colorado called Ouray.Â Often more intimidating than the vertical water ice is pronouncing Ouray correctly! So how do you say it… Is it “Oooray” or “Ewwray”…? Actually is best pronounced You-Ray.

So now that you know how to say it correctly it’s time to see which course fits you best. We offer 2-day, 3-day and 5-day courses, private trips are no problem either…and with no experience needed to get started climbing there are officially no excuses! IMG Guides John Race, Olivia Cussen, Mark Allen, Brian Warren, Zoe Hart, Jake Norton, Matt Farmer, and Eric Remza hope to see you in Ouray this winter for some world class ice climbing.

Get Vertical!

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Tye Chapman
Operations Manager

IMG Team Summits Ama Dablam and Returns to BC

October 27, 2009

IMG guide Justin Merle reports that everyone is safe and sound after a very successful summit day. Congrats to the climbers! They left Camp 2 at 4am and reached the summit a bit after 10am. Then they descended to Camp 2 by about 2pm, and were feeling good, so they kept moving down, eventually descending ALL the way to Base Camp by about 8:30pm! It was a long day, but everyone was feeling good, and they wanted to just keep movingÂ down.

Justin reports that the route was in good shape and the Dablam Glacier ice cliff looked a lot better than it did the last couple years. He said there was some old debris in the vicinity of Camp 3, but it appeared that the cliff has stabilized compared to the last few years, when it was quiteÂ active.

â€”Eric

Ama Dablam Climbers at C2 Positioned for Summit Bid

October 26, 2009

Justin Merle called on the sat phone to say that today they were able to move up to Camp 2. The weather and conditions remain good and the ridge was in good shape for climbing.

Their plan is to make an alpine start tomorrow morning and try to go for the summit from Camp 2 (skipping C3). This makes the summit day longer, but eliminates having to stay at Camp 3, which has been hit by falling ice occasionally in past years. We’ll keep you posted!

â€”Eric

Ama Dablam Climbers Move Up

October 26, 2009

Justin Merle called on the sat phone from Camp 1 to report that the team moved up to there today. The weather and conditions are good and if all goes well, they will move up to Camp 2 tomorrow.

â€”Eric

Ama Dablam Climbers Reach Base Camp

October 22, 2009

IMG leader Justin Merle reports that the Ama Dablam team is now at the base camp.Â After hiking to Everest BC and climbing Lobuche Peak for acclimatization, and a couple days of rest in Dingboche, they are all set and ready to start climbing.

A rare view of Ama Dablam from Pumori Camp 1 (photo: Eric Simonson)

Ang Pasang and Ang Tshering have the Ama Dablam BC all buffed out, and they will do their puja tomorrow, then start moving up.Â The loads for the upper camps are ready to start moving up by yaks to below the start of the South Ridge route. Justin reports the weather has been stable and the conditions look reasonably good.

â€”Eric Simonson

IMG Bhutan Trip Ends a Success

October 21, 2009

This time we got an email from IMG Bhutan leader, Mike Hamill. He said that everyoneâ€™s now in Thimpu, Bhutan’s capital city, and that all is well. Shopping and sightseeing are the order of the day prior to driving back to Paro. The only airport in country is in Paro and flights out are typically earlier in the morning so itâ€™s just easier to spend the night there prior to heading for Bangkok.

They did it. 14 days on the trail and everyone came through without a scratch. Bhutanâ€™s a special country, perhaps the most exotic travel destination in the world. If IMG goes back in 2010, donâ€™t miss it. No one comes home unchanged.

Thanks to all our team members: Kim and John, Michael and Eboli, Sam and Sasha, Jean and Chuck. And remember, ‘gross national happiness.’

â€”Phil Ershler

Interested in exploring Bhutan’s Gross National Happiness yourself? Click for all the detailsÂ Â»

25th Anniversary of Phil Ershler’s first Everest Summit

October 20, 2009

Today marks 25 years since Phil Ershler made the first American ascent of the North Face of Everest. His first Everest summit was achieved in a solo climb where his one and only oxygen bottle ran out on the upper mountain. He went on to the top, descended safely, and did it in 1984 when going to Everest was a bit like going to the moon.

Phil was on the cutting edge of high altitude mountaineering in those days. He led Bass and Well’s ’83 Everest trip, reached the summit of Kangchenjunga from the North in ’89, climbed to within a few hundred feet of the summit of K2 in ’90 w/o O2 (via the remote North Ridge). As members of several of those early American teams that ventured to the Himalayas, we remember clearly what it was like back then: no other teams on the mountain, no fixed ropes unless we put them in ourselves, noÂ sherpas, noÂ tourists, noÂ satÂ phones, noÂ rescue, noÂ nothing!

In the years that followed those exploits, Phil has continued to distinguish himself as a remarkable mountain guide, who has personally led well over a hundred expeditions around the world and inspired a whole generation of guides and customers. All of us who have climbed and worked with him are continually amazed by his perseverance, good humor, even keel, and great judgment. He is a real asset for us here at IMG. Way to go, Phil!

â€”Eric Simonson and George Dunn

Read the full story and see more photos on Phil Ershler’s 25th Everest Anniversary PageÂ Â»

IMG Bhutan Team Enjoying Himalayan Hot Springs

October 19, 2009

I talked to Mike late last evening, which means morning in Bhutan on the 19th.Â They’d just finished breakfast and were ready to leave for their final day of trekking.Â Last night was spent in Gaza (9750′) and included a soak in the hot springs there.Â They visited a large monastery in Gaza before dropping down to the hot springs .Â Other than the occasional blister, the team has done well. Perfect weather since getting soaked the first couple of days on the trail.

They’re heading now to Damji at about 7500′.Â One last night in a tent and they’ll be driving for Thimpu, the capital of Bhutan, on the 20th.Â No real need for a shower as they got clean at the Gaza hot spring.Â They’ll likely take one regardless at the Hotel Druk.

Phil Ershler

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