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Whitney Trip Report

April 5, 2011

Heading down to Lone Pine for some pizza and beer!

We summited Whitney over the weekend (Saturday) around 9:15 a.m. in windy conditions. The whole team made it in good style. The weather improved as we descended and we were back at high camp by around 1:30 pm.

It was a beautiful afternoon in camp, resting and enjoying the sun. Sometime after midnight it started to blow and snow and got pretty wild. The guides’ tent suffered two broken poles and we had to collapse it to survive the winds. Working outside I clocked some of the gusts at 70mph. Luckily the rest of the tents held up OK with minor damage. The guides spent the rest of the night in their collapsed tent with no ill effects, and by about 5:30 a.m. the winds died and the day began with clear, sunny skies once more.

We packed up, and started walking down a little after 8:00 a.m. We passed the next climb as they were preparing to depart from Lower Boy Scout Lake and move up to high camp. It looks like they will have great weather for their climb, high pressure is building over the area for Monday and Tuesday. Our team continued on down and we were in Lone Pine for a lunch of pizza and beer shortly after noon. It was a great climb and a great way to finish my visit to Whitney this year. My thanks to all the members who share these climbs with me. I’m already planning next year’s visit.

George Dunn

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Whitney Summit!

April 2, 2011

Mt Whitney Plaque.

George called in this morning from the summit of Mt. Whitney.  “100% on top! A beautiful, but cold, morning here on the summit of Mt. Whitney.  Strong team. Great climb.”

They’ll spend a few minutes on the summit before heading back to camp for some hot drinks, dinner and some well deserved rest. Tomorrow they’ll head back to Lone Pine, celebrate and fade back into life.

Tye Chapman

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Team #3 On Whitney Moving To High Camp

April 1, 2011

Heading to high camp on Mt. Whitney.

George Dunn called in today to report that conditions have improved since his last go-around on Whitney last week. They’re en route to High Camp now and given that the snow is settling nicely they should have an opportunity to climb tonight/tomorrow.

Good luck guys & gals!

Tye Chapman

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Boots For Mt. Rainier: Singles vs. Doubles

March 31, 2011

Asolo Evoluziones are a great choice of double plastic boots for Mt. Rainier.

With the Rainier season just around the corner we’re getting “the boot question” more and more frequently so here’s a snapshot of our thinking…

When to use plastic boots:

* Early season (May and June) and winter
* If you are a First time climber, you should rent them
* If you are a person with compromised circulation or a history of cold feet

When to use single boots:

* If you own your own boots and have used them successfully in similar conditions to Mt. Rainier
* During the peak summer season (July through September)
* If you have fit issues (very small, large, narrow or wide feet)

Late season suggestion:

If you are climbing in later season (after early August) it is often worth bringing a light pair of hiking or running shoes to wear on the first 2½ miles of the approach up to Pebble Creek. These are especially valuable on the way down if your feet are sore (or hot) in the double plastic boots.

For our full boot philosophy on Mt. Rainier click here.

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Latest Denali Seminar Is “Wearing It”

March 30, 2011

Camp 1. (Photo by Landon Turner)

Aaron Mainer called in from +/- 6500ft on Mt. Rainier, where he and our Denali Prep Seminar team are camped, to report exactly what the forecast called (and is calling) for: bad weather.

Yesterday’s anticipated weather window closed quicker than expected forcing the team to hang down low, instead of heading up to Camp Muir. They put their time to good use by building some big wind walls around their tents  in anticipation of the incoming weather. Today they learned about anchor systems.

That’s the beauty of these seminars – good weather or bad, there are plenty of opportunities to learn!

Tye Chapman

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It’s Almost ‘Go Time’ In Kathmandu

March 29, 2011

We received a quick note from Greg Vernovage late last night who’s with our Everest team in Kathmandu getting ready to make the hop from KTM to Lukla in the next few days.

———-
Hey All,

People are streaming in all day today. Our welcome dinner tonight at 6:30 will bring it all together. We’re doing a lot of gear checks and some last minute purchases – standard protocol in these parts.

The team is showing up looking great. All of the guides here are pretty fired up and excited to keep the trip moving. There  is a great energy here and I can’t wait to get things rolling.

Greg
———-

**Remember you can follow all the Everest action on the Everest Expedition Coverage Homepage,

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Stormed Off Mt. Whitney

March 28th, 2011

Inyo National Forest is home to Mt. Whitney.

Over the weekend the deep snow, bad weather and a poor forecast forced our first Whitney team off the mountain and back to Lone Pine.  All made it back in good form, thus the mantra of ” Safety First” won again!

Team number two was scheduled to be on the mountain early this week but avalanche conditions prevented them from going above C1. Instead, they opted to go rock climbing today and will do some training tomorrow.

Tye

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Deep Snow On Whitney

March 25, 2011

Great views all around.

George called in from Upper Boy Scout Lake on Mt. Whitney today to report that the deep snow made for some difficult trail-breaking this afternoon.  As a result, they pulled up short of the typical high camp location and will instead make up that time with lighter packs in the morning.

All is well!

Tye Chapman

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Lots Of Moving Parts These Days

March 24, 2011

We’ve got a lot of moving parts these days with several programs getting started over the next couple weeks.

Next up are: Everest, Lhotse, Lobuche, Everest Base Camp Treks, Whitney, Denali Prep Seminars and Machu Picchu. That covers 2 U.S. States, 3 countries on 3 continents. Not too bad.

Machu Picchu. (Photo by Trent Carey)
Some less than ideal conditions on Mt. Rainier. Fun nonetheless! (Photo by John Short)

Mt. Whitney from Upper Boy Scout (High Camp).
Everest. (Photo by Larry Alleva)

Keep these programs in mind next year if you’re sitting at your desk right now thinking “this is a good time of year for me to take a vacation!” Or just follow along here on the blog.

But right now it’s time for all of us to get back to work!

Tye Chapman

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Whitney Season Kicks Off This Weekend

March 23, 2011

The last pitch before the summit. (Photo by Trent Carey)

George Dunn is finishing up his last minute checklist here in Washington before he jumps on a plane tomorrow to head down to Lone Pine, CA to kick-off the IMG climbing season on Mt. Whitney.

Most people climb Whitney in the summer but we schedule our trips in the spring to maximize the alpine environment that Whitney provides this time of year.  In the summer, the Mountaineers Route is typically a loose scramble up a rock gully but in the spring it becomes a snow climb on terrain up to 45-degrees, a great challenge for all climbers.

We’re running more trips than ever this year, 7 in total, so we’ll have plenty to post here on the blog.

Have fun guys!

Tye Chapman

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