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Mountaineering Legend Passes Away

April 25, 2011

Phil and Gombu discussing the finer points of climbing while Gombu hosted the IMG Sikkim trekking team to lunch at his home in Darjeeling.

Easter morning, I received an email from Yangdu Gombu, daughter of famed mountaineer, Nawang Gombu, letting me know that her father had passed away.  Many stories will be written about Gombu and they will all be true.  Jim Whittaker was Gombu’s partner when they climbed Everest together in 1963.  Gombu returned in 1965 with an Indian expedition, becoming the first man to summit Everest TWICE.

I first met Gombu in the summer of 1971 while I was a young apprentice guide.  My partners, George Dunn and Eric Simonson, and I had the great privilege of sharing days with Gombu on Rainier, Denali, Everest and Kanchenjunga – doing our best to learn and just to try absorb a bit of his spirit, humility and grace.

Funeral services will be held in Darjeeling on April 28th.

Those who knew him will remember a kind spirit, a powerful mountain climber and simply a great friend.  The mountaineering world has lost a true icon.

Phil Ershler

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Chainsaws & Lawnmowers – The Sounds Of Spring

April 22, 2011

We have to take advantage of any sunny day in the spring around here…and unfortunately we’re not talking about spring skiing! There’s work to be done before the 2011 Rainier season officially gets underway and Steven and Larry are checking a couple items off the to do list today.

3 weeks until we kick off the season. Can’t wait!

Not a wild animal…that’s Larry taking care of some suspect trees.
HQ is shaping up.

Tye Chapman

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Puja & Lobuche Photos

April 21, 2011

Everybody loves photos… so here are some photos sent over from Greg Vernovage and Ang Jangbu from Everest Base camp.

Remember you can follow the Everest Team’s Progress here.

Enjoy!

Tye Chapman

The Guys at the Puja.
Puja Ceremony
Puja Ceremony

The Team
Lobuche Summit!
Lobuche Climb

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How To Train For A Climb Of Mt. Rainier

April 18, 2011

Upper mountain...almost there!

Mt. Rainier, at 14,410 feet, is one of the largest and most challenging endurance climbs in the United States. It is the most imposing glaciated peak in the lower 48 States and has long been a premier training ground for climbs such as Denali, Aconcagua and the Himalayas. An attempt of Mt. Rainier is a serious endeavor and one that demands good physical fitness.

It is our goal to help you properly prepare for your upcoming Mt. Rainier climb. We realize that many of our customers have never climbed a large mountain before and are unsure about exactly how to train for a climb of such magnitude. We will try to help by explaining as clearly as possible what will be expected of you physically during your ascent. We have also done our best to outline how to achieve the necessary fitness level. You will be safer, increase your chance of success and enjoy the climb more if you show up in good physical condition.

(Read more…)

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Everest Teams Right On Schedule

April 15, 2011

All of our Everest Teams are firing on all cylinders! The Lobuche, Lhohtse and Everest climbers are acclimatizing well, the trekkers are en route and the Sherpas are working hard establishing the camps higher on the mountain.

International Mountain Guides Everest Base Camp 2011

Keep up with their progress on the Everest Expedition Coverage page.

Tye Chapman

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IMG Guide Mark Allen In American Alpine Journal

April 13, 2011

By Mark Allen

Mt. Bradley watercolor. Art by Lee Allen. Topo by Mark Allen.

Graham Zimmerman and I landed in the Ruth Gorge on March 28, and soon spotted a virgin line on the southeast buttress of Mt. Bradley. We made an attempt on March 31. Then, on the evening of April 2, we left camp with 40 hours of food and fuel in a 20-pound second’s pack and a 15-pound leader’s pack, regained our highpoint and established five more pitches. Mid-day we bivied on a prow, sheltered from what loomed above. The 1,500′ day included Zimmerman climbing several M5 pitches and me dealing with sustained 5.9 rock, an A1 tension traverse, and a transition from boots and crampons to rock shoes and back.

(Read more)

 

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Avalanches Are Awesome From A Distance

April 12, 2011

IMG Partner and Director of Ski Patrol at Crystal Mountain, Paul Baugher was recently  featured on King 5 News as he and his ski patrollers did their best to eliminate some of the avalanche danger that has been a long standing partner of year’s ski season.

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More Success On Whitney

April 8, 2011

Our Whitney climbs continue to be successful after the first two stormy climbs.

The third trip summitted 100% as previously reported. So did the fourth trip, April 2-5!

A private climb of 4 persons (April 4-7) summited April 6, and they descended that same day all the way down in the face of approaching windy conditions. Word is the conditions are about as good as they get on the route right now.

Now we are awaiting news of success from the sixth climb of the season, April 7-10. They should be summiting tomorrow a.m. It looks like the weather may just be OK for them, we’ll post as soon as they let us know of their success.

George

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Everest Expedition Photos On Facebook

April 7, 2011

Please excuse the shameless plug…

We’ve posted some photos from the ongoing Everest Expedition on our facebook page. Check it out and give us a “thumbs up” or a “like” if you approve.

 

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2011 Rainier Ropes Arrived Today

April 6, 2011

Another Rainier season approaches…

2011 Ropes for Rainier have arrived.

We received our 2011 Rainier ropes today. Bluewater 9.4 Dominators to be exact.

Let the climbing begin!

Tye Chapman

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