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Carstensz Climbers Back Over New Zealand Pass

July 16, 2011

Yet another stream crossing (credit Jim Walkley)
On the crossing of New Zealand pass (credit Jim Walkley)

Jason Edwards reports that the Carstensz team have successfully made it back over New Zealand Pass, and are back on the plateau.  The pass required 1700 feet of climbing, and they had to install ropes in several places of where the terrain was especially steep and slippery.  Now, on the plateau, they have two days of stream crossings and mud, followed by two days in the forest, before they are back to Ilaga.  Jason says everyone is getting a bit tired, but is hanging in there: “this mountain just keeps giving us something new every day”.

Eric Simonson

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Kili Team Feeling Strong at Karanga

July 16, 2011

After a spectacular day on the Breach Wall and the traverse under the Southern Glaciers IMG Guide Eric Remza reports that the team is feeling strong.  The weather has been crystal clear and looking good as summit day approaches.  Tomorrow the team will have a short day to “high camp” at Barafu.  Barafu means “Ice” in Swahili!  Karanga is the last camp where water is available, so the porter team is ferrying loads of water to Barafu to make sure that the team is well stocked.  Everything is ticking along perfectly.

Adam Angel

The steep and rewarding path up the Breach Wall. (Photo by Adam Angel)

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Rewarding Day on Kili.

July 15, 2011

Eric Remza called in from Barranco Camp at 13,000′.  The group had a long and rewarding 8 hour day as they trekked past Lava Tower and to the base of the Barranco Wall, where they will camp.  Tomorrow the group will get an early start to climb the Breach Wall before getting spectacular views of the Southern Glaciers.  It will be another magnificent day, and undoubtedly a highlight of the trip.

The summit looms overhead and provides inpiration for the upcoming days. (Photo by Adam Angel)

Kili gets closer and closer as the team heads for 15,000'. (Photo by Adam Angel)

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Carstensz 100% Summit!

July 15, 2011

IMG guide Jason Edwards reports that the team had an excellent summit day, and they were 100% to the top with six IMG climbers, and three guides.  Congrats to climbers Mark, Jeff, Chris, Ted, Colin, and Andrew and to Jason and our two Indonesian guides Steven and Joshua.  The weather was excellent and they enjoyed a full moon for their alpine start (about 3:30am).  Roundtrip from BC to the summit ended up being about 12 hours.  Conditions on the route were good, and the new Tyrolean Traverse over the big notch on the ridge simplifies getting past this obstacle (before you had to rappel into the notch and climb out the other side).  After going hard for the last week, and then climbing today, the team enjoyed relaxing after getting back down, knowing they had been successful.  After a good night sleep tonight, the porters return tomorrow and they start the trek back to Ilaga, which they are estimating will take five days.

Eric Simonson

One of the many rappels to get back down from the summit of Carstensz (Photo by Eric Simonson)
The Tyrolean Traverse on the summit ridge (Photo by Jim Walkley)

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Kili Team at Shira Camp

July 14, 2011

All is well on Kilimanjaro.  Eric Remza called in from the Shira Plateau to report that the group was very strong and doing great.  The tent and gear porters got a quick start today and had a great camp ready for the climbers when they arrived.  You get good views of the mountain on the way to Shira as you climb out of the clouds.  If all goes well with the weather they’ll be above the cloud deck for the rest of the climb.  After a good nights sleep they will head to Barranco camp by way of Lava Tower where they’ll get their first taste of 15,000′.

Adam Angel

Getting the first close glimpses of the mountain on the way to Shira Plateau. (Photo by Adam Angel)

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Carstensz Team Reaches Base Camp

July 14, 2011

Base Camp is situated by the turquoise lakes at the foot of the mountain. (Photo by Jim Walkley)

Jason Edwards reports that the team has successfully reached base camp, after seven days of trekking.  This is one more than the planned six days, and was due to an adjustment made at the request of the porters, who wanted to pull up short on the next-to-last day, so they could make it to BC early the following day and be able to turn around and make it back to their camp (where they have wood and water).

The weather has been excellent for the team, with only occasional rain, and clear skies for much of the time.  The sun was nice, because they got wet many times a day with all the stream crossings on the plateau.  Jason says they wore their rubber boots for the entire trek, except for the last day of hiking to BC!

Now, they are preparing for the climb of Carstensz.  The plan is to try tomorrow, with a departure about 3am, and about 12 hours projected for the round trip ascent/descent.

Eric Simonson

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Kili Team Settles In At Machame Camp

July 13, 2011

Always nice to get the satellite phone call letting us know that another Kilimanjaro trip is off to a good start.  First, flights have to go according to plan and all the luggage needs to arrive.  No small hurdle in itself.  Then, like today, it’s good to know that the team did well on Day 1.  And that was the report from IMG Senior Guide, Eric Remza.  He called to let us know that the first 4,000 ft of the climb is now history.  Everyone’s settled in at Machame Camp and all is well.  Nice.

Phil Ershler

On the way to Machame Camp

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Kili Team Shaking Off Jet Lag

July 12, 2011

Our porters line up to receive their loads for the mountain. (Photo by Adam Angel).

IMG Guide Eric Remza and his second crew of the season have all arrived on schedule in Tanzania.  All of our local friends and staff are excited to meet the next team of IMG climbers.

The group will enjoy a free day today to recover from the long flights.  They’ll visit the local market, the Kilimanjaro Porter’s Assistance Project, and get packed up and ready to start climbing tomorrow.

They’re off to a great start.

Adam Angel

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IMG Teams Checking In

July 12, 2011

Heading back down to The Flats.

Radio transmissions and SAT phone calls are coming in from all over the place this morning…

Phil Ershler chimed in from the summit of Mt. Rainier early this morning.

Eben Reckord and our Glacier Skills Seminar radioed from 7000ft on the Paradise Glacier – all is well. They’ll move to their second camp today and work on some skill sessions.

Jess Culver, who is assisting with the Camp Patriot Climb reports that all is well at Camp Muir. They’ll do some training today and get ready to climb tonight.

On the other side of the mountain, Max Bunce, and his Emmons team are getting things rolling this morning. After a nice breakfast at the Alpine Inn, they’ll start their climb to Camp 1 on the Inter Glacier.

And due south on Mt. Adams, IMG Guides Dan Zokaites and Mike Haft report some less than ideal conditions, which is a nice way of saying it’s raining sideways. After a quick breakfast they’ll evaluate their options and make a decision on their day. All is well – just a little wet.

Tye Chapman

 

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Denali Team On Terra Firma

July 11, 2011

Awaiting their flight to Talkeetna a few hours ago.

Vernovage called in this afternoon from Talkeetna – a welcome sight after 3 weeks on Denali!

All is well – they’ll dry, sort and repair gear, inhale a burger or 3 and eventually make their way to Anchorage and on home. Mission accomplished.

Well done team!

Tye Chapman

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