August 21, 2011
Mt. Baker
Quick update from IMG Guide Aaron Mainer who called in from high camp on Baker to report that the team summited this afternoon (a day early due to the forecast) and are safely back at camp. They’ll enjoy a full night in their sleeping bags tonight before making their way out to the trailhead tomorrow.
Tye Chapman
August 21, 2011
Ang Jangbu reports from Kathmandu that all of our Cho Oyu and Shishapangma climbers and their bags have arrived safely in Kathmandu—always a great way to start an expedition!
The Sherpas have now finished packing all the food and equipment into yak loads. They loaded the truck this evening, which will depart from Kathmandu early tomorrow morning for the border escorted by Panuru, Karma Rita and Pasang Nuri. Currently the road is open which is good news despite reports of some recent landslide activity.
The team receives their Chinese/Tibetan visas tomorrow, and then they will depart early the following morning. Tonight, the team had a “welcome dinner†at Hotel Tibet. After traveling half way around the world, it’s great to finally get all that traveling done, and have the chance to relax a bit with your team, knowing the trip has officially started!
Cho Oyu leaders Craig John and Max Bunce, and Shishapangma leader Mike Hamill report that everyone is doing well and are in good spirits!
Eric Simonson
August 21
Greg reports that after a good rest day yesterday in La Paz, today the group went back into the mountains, supported by some mules to haul their gear for their trek to Base Camp. The camp is in a beautiful grassy area at about 15,000 feet, mowed smooth by llamas, mules, horses, and sheep that graze in the area. There is a nice running stream nearby and in the evening the team will get a great view of La Paz night lights.
Eric Simonson
August 19, 2011
Mary and Alex being lowered from the summit of Pequeno Alpamayo. Full photo album available on IMG's Facebook page (click photo above). Give us the 'thumbs up' if you approve.
It has been a great trip to say the least, with two weeks of perfect weather and great climbing. Â We are now back in La Paz and we have all taken a well deserved shower. Â Our teammate, Alex, had to depart last night to get back to the United States and I know he was bummed, because he was ready to take on our next challenge, Illimani.
Our climbing and training for Illimani has been perfect. Â The technical challenges of Pequeno Alpamayo had the team work with both altitude and skills that we will need for Illimani. Â After that test, I assured the team that Huayna Potosi would be technically simpler. Â As we all know though, a bit more elevation can be challenging as well. Â 6,088 meters is equal to just under 20,000 feet. Â Bottom line, the team did great! As we get to the summit ridge, after climbing for 5+ hours, if you are a climber, you have to look over the edge. Â The first thing you should notice is Lake Titicaca in the distance. Â As you get more comfortable with your surroundings or lack there of, you look over the lip, down the West Face of Potosi, 3,000 feet down. Â Probably our sweetest day of climbing so far.
Back at Base Camp, we got a great dinner and good night sleep. Â Up early and on our way back to La Paz, the talk in the van circled around showers, a great dinner at a restaurant that Eduardo (one of our top notch Bolivian guides) wants to go to. Â The last topic of conversation on the way back to town was in front of us for the entire drive. Â “Greg, That is one huge mountain. (Illimani) Â How are we going to climb it? Â Where are we going to go?” Â Illimani is 6,438m (21,122 ft) and I am looking forward to showing this team another piece of Bolivia.
A rest day tomorrow in La Paz, and we are ready to go!
Greg Vernovage
August 18, 2011
Greg Vernovage on the summit of Huayna Potosi
IMG guide Greg Vernovage reports that the climb went well today, with the entire group reaching the summit!
The route started from high camp with glacier travel, then some steep rolls, and finally a steep chute up to the ridge that leads to a fantastic summit (with a 3000 foot drop off down the west face at your feet!). Â The weather was good, and they had excellent views of Lake Titicaca, Illimani, and the surrounding peaks of the Condoriri group before heading back down to the high camp. Â Congrats to Greg, Â Alex, Mary, Derek, Bill, Ryoko, Viki, Deborah, and our Bolivian guides for a safe ascent and descent.
Greg says they left the high camp at 2:45am and reached the top at 8:00am, and were all back to the high camp by 11:45am.  After a rest, some lunch, and getting packed up, they are heading on down this afternoon to the Base Camp. We’ll plan to hear from them tomorrow after they get back to La Paz.
Two down, one to go (Illimani)!!
Eric Simonson
August 17, 2011
IMG guide Greg Vernovage fired up his SPOT  to show us where the team was,  on their way to the high camp at the Casa Alta Roca hut (16,990 ft / 5,180m). They’ll be getting a pre-dawn start tonight, heading for the 19,974 ft / 6,094m summit of Huayna Potosi.
Eric Simonson
Huayna Potosi (courtesy of Google Earth)
August 16, 2011
Huayno Potosi from near Zongo Pass. (Photo by Ben Marshall)
IMG leader Greg Vernovage reports by sat phone that the team successfully moved from Condoriri Base Camp to the Huayna Potosi Base Camp and are now ensconced at the Casa Blanca Hut (about 15,500 feet). Today was an easy day, with some training, rest and reorganization, in preparation for the climb tomorrow up to the Campo de Rocas hut at almost 17,000 feet. The weather remains good and everyone is doing well.
Eric Simonson
August 15, 2011
Climbing in the Alps.
August 15, 2011
Pequeño Alpamayo summit ridge. (photo by Mark Ursino)
One summit down, two to go! Greg Vernovage reports by sat phone from Condoriri Base Camp that the team put their training to work yesterday with 100% success on Pequeño Alpamayo (17,482’). Greg said the weather and conditions for the climb were excellent and the team did a great job on the ascent and descent. After a good dinner and sleep back at Base Camp, the team descends today to meet the jeeps and will travel to the Huayna Potosi Base Camp.
So far so good!
Eric Simonson
August 14, 2011
by IMG Pirate Jenni Fogle
The Buff is relatively new to the ‘gear scene’ but it is quickly becoming a must-have item. Simple, lightweight and versatile give it instant credibility amongst the guide staff and makes as close to required as possible. Here IMG Guide Jenni Fogle gives a quick demonstration of a few of The Buff’s uses.
