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Updates From Tibet

September 10, 2011

Looking up from Camp 1. (Photo by Greg Vernovage)

Good reports from Tibet from IMG Guides Craig John and Mike Hamill overnight.

Hamill reports that the Shishapangma team is on their second of three rest days at Advanced Base Camp after their Camp 1 Rotation. The Sherpas are higer on the mountain working on the route to Camp 2. After a good rest they’ll make the move to C2.

Over on Cho Oyu Craig John reports that the team is finishing up their C1 rotation and will also make their move to C2 in a couple days.

All good things!

Tye Chapman

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Fall Helicopter Flight On Rainer

September 9, 2011

The annual Fall Flight went off without a hitch earlier this week on Mt. Rainier. We successfully flew up several cylinders of propane, a new floor to our Weatherport and a few other odds and ends. IMG Partners Phil Ershler and Eric Simonson, who combined have been to Muir over 1000 times, couldn’t be kept away – they were hands on with the installation along with IMG Guide Luke Reilly.

Hard work no doubt, but I think there was more fun had than anything. Give these guys a chance to roll their sleeves up and get after it and they’re as happy as can be. You gotta love it when the owners are first in line to get to work.  George will go up this weekend and give their craftsmanship a once over as he heads uphill on his second climb this week. 506…507… Good stuff!

Tye Chapman

Old floor getting packed in net for flight downhill. (Eric Simonson)
Phil & luke with new Weatherport floor. (Eric Simonson)

Helicopter over the Cowlitz with a load of propane. (Eric Simonson)
Helicopter over Camp Muir. (Eric Simonson)

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Shish’ Team @ Camp 1; Cho Oyu Team Having Cake

September 8, 2011

Cho Oyu— Members who spent night of the 6th came down to ABC safe and we celebrated Kumaran’s 27th birthday last night. Attached are couple of shots. Depending on weather, we plan to send the sherpa team to do a carry to camp 1 tomorrow.

Kumaran’s birthday dinner.
Kumaran’s birthday at Cho Oyu ABC.

Shishapangma— I talked to Mike Hamill on the sat phone last night, they were up at camp 1 spending the night. Mike said everyone on his team is doing well. They are headed back down to ABC today.

Jangbu

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Sunrise At The Ingraham Flats

September 7, 2011

A big thank you to Evann Strathern who put this video together on a recent climb of Mt. Rainier!

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Cho Oyu Camp 1 Established & Occupied

September 6, 2011

Upper mountain. (Photo by Ang Jangbu)
Tents at camp 1. (Photo by Ang Jangbu)

Camp One. (Photo by Ang Jangbu)
Camp 1 looking south. (Photo by Ang Jangbu)

A number of the IMG climbers moved up to Camp 1 today for an overnight stay for acclimatization, and the other members will be moving up tomorrow or the next day.  Ang Jangbu accompanied them and got some nice photos from Camp 1!

Eric Simonson

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2012 Rainier Dates Released

September 6, 2011

Another beautiful sunrise on Mt. Rainier!

The long wait is over…our 2012 Rainier dates have been released!

We’re not quite done this year on Mt. Rainer but we’re already looking forward to another great season on Mt. Rainier next year. We’ll have all the classic climbs like the 3.5 Day Disappointment Cleaver, 4.5 Day Emmons and 4 or 5 Day Kautz climbs as well some more technical climbs via the Fuhrer Finger & Liberty Ridge routes. And for those of you looking to learn a bit more, the Glacier Skills Seminar or the New Little Tahoma Mountaineering Seminar should fit your needs.

And for those of you with Denali on the brain don’t miss our Winter and Denali Prep Seminars this winter.

**Please click here to see our registration forms and process. And don’t miss our  Rainier FAQ section to answer a lot of your initial question. Note: “Holds” will not be placed on any Rainier climbs.

Tye Chapman

 

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Cho Oyu & Shishapangma Team Establish C1

September 5, 2011

Team after Puja. (Photo by Ang Jangbu)

With their pujas behind them, it is time for the climbing to start!  Mike Hamill on Shishapangma and Ang Jangbu on Cho Oyu report that both teams are on essentially the same schedules. Today the sherpas from each team made it up to their respective Camp 1 sites, and got those camps put in.  Meanwhile, the climbers did some more acclimatization hiking and training, in preparation for moving up to Camp 1 in the next day or two.  On Shishapangma the route to Camp 1 is simple snow travel on the lower part of the glacier.  On Cho Oyu the climbers ascend a (normally) rocky slope leading up to the ridge crest.  However, Jangbu reports that there is a lot of snow this year below Camp 1, and today the Cho Oyu sherpas fixed 150 meters of rope below the campsite.

Eric Simonson

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Superfoods Of The Mountains

September 4, 2011

If you squint...you can see some bananas in the back there.

What you eat in the mountains is important… staying healthy is a great place to start but so is eating what you like. Here’s a glimpse into some actual superfoods and some superfoods of a few of our guides:

Actual superfoods:
Beans, Blueberries, Broccoli, Oats, Oranges, Pumpkin, Salmon, Soy, Spinach, Tea (green or black), Tomatoes, Turkey, Walnuts, Yogurt.

IMG Superfoods
Chris Meder – Bagel sandwiches
Greg Vernovage – Swedish Fish
Josh Smith – Quesadillas
Kelly Ryan – Jalapeno poppers
Emily Johnston – Double chocolate oatmeal cookies
Eben Reckord – Domino’s Pizza & Sour Patch Kids
Austin Shannon – Yogurt covered pretzels
Tyler Gimenez – Blue Diamond wasabi flavored almonds
Tye Chapman – Trader Joe’s Naan bread with cream cheese, red peppers & turkey.
Max Bunce – Sour Patch Kids
Dan Zokaites – Potatoes & hard boiled eggs. Old school.
Erica Engle – Banana or zucchini bread

Eat well in the mountains!

Tye Chapman

 

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It’s Puja Time

September 2, 2011

Cho Oyu towers above the ABC puja alter. (Photo by Ang Jangbu)

IMG leader Mike Hamill reports that the Shishapangma team is doing well up at Advanced Base Camp, with their final yak loads now having arrived.  Today Mike, Kami, and Panuru took a reconaissance hike up a ways towards Camp 1, and everyone will be hiking and/or relaxing tomorrow.  Over at Cho Oyu, Ang Jangbu reports that their final yak loads have also now arrived to ABC, and the Cho Oyu climbers are also doing acclimatization hiking and relaxing.  Tomorrow they plan to go up to Lake Camp (below Camp 1) for a day hike.

Both teams are doing their puja ceremonies on October 4, an auspicious day on the Tibetan calendar.  This is the traditional sherpa blessing ceremoney and the official start of the climbing.  Both groups they plan to start working on carrying to Camp 1 starting on Monday.  So far so good!

Eric Simonson

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Forbidden & The North Cascades

September 1, 2011

Forbidden Summit. (Photo by Austin Shannon)

North Cascades National Park in Washington is like none other.  It is full of everything from glaciated terrain to beautiful granite spires and everything in between.  It offers climbers and outdoor enthusiasts alike a place to experience the little bit of wilderness we have left.  If your looking for the next step in a mountain adventure or simply want to experience something off the beaten path then the North Cascades is the place for you.  Possibilities are endless; all you have to do is push the door open.

For instance, I recently guided a trip on Forbidden peak.  It is located in Boston Basin, which is one of the most beautiful places in North Cascade National Park.  The west ridge of Forbidden peak is a beautiful rock ridge that stretches up from the valley below nearly 2,000 vertical feet.  This route offers the novice climber wonderful exposure, superb climbing, and a full alpine style commitment…accompanied by a guide of course.  This is just one of the examples that the “Alps of America” has to offer.

The beauty of the North Cascades programs is that they can be completely customized.  Anything from a short three day alpine attack to a five day skills seminar, we will meet your needs.  So, come out and climb with us and see what this gem of Washington does for you.

Austin Shannon

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