November 8, 2011

Part 2 of our week long series “From A Guide’s Perspective”, IMG Guide Chris Meder describes a few things that can make or break a climb.

Daily Expectations & Your Process
By Chris Meder

Chris Meder

Mountaineering, like many challenging things we apply ourselves to in life, can bring some anxiety.  Not knowing what the route looks like, an uncertain weather forecast, and not being sure of our physical fitness can all contribute to an unproductive sense of nervousness.   As with most of these challenges, planning, preparation and knowledge can give you a hefty psychological advantage.  That’s why it’s good to have an idea of what you can expect day to day in the mountains.  Whether you’re just embarking on your mountaineering career with a first climb of Mt Rainier, or attempting a big peak in some remote location around the globe, the process of your day to day activities will be very similar.   Here are some things to get you started in developing a mental model of what to expect from a day in the mountains, just about anywhere.

At its most basic, your daily routine will look something like this.  Wake up reasonably early (dark and early for summit days), get dressed in clothing appropriate to the current weather, jumpstart the body with some breakfast, then attend to any camp chores before departing for the day.  Once you’re walking or climbing, your goal is to move as efficiently as possible, moving at a consistent pace.

You want to focus on taking care of yourself, conserving precious energy as you go.  This means stopping to eat and drink approximately every hour, even if you are not hungry.  You’re not eating to satisfy a current hunger, but rather to keep the fire going throughout the day so that the body continually has reserves to draw upon.  Stay ahead of the caloric and hydration curves.

Throughout the day, even while trying to move at a consistent pace, you will inevitably get hot or cold.  Thermal equilibrium in the mountains is a myth; it’s just something we need to accept and deal with.  The weather can change quickly, and the body’s heat output will do the same based on the terrain you’re traveling through, and how hard you’re working.  Be flexible and do your best to anticipate what layers to wear for each part of the day, given the current weather and your current temperature.   Your guide will help with this clothing selection, but spend some time at home becoming familiar with your layering system to aid in this process.  Eventually, you will come to know exactly what layers to wear for a particular part of the day.  No problem if you choose incorrectly, just make a mental note and adjust next time.  Your goal with all of this is to manage your body temperature effectively—not sweating profusely or shivering uncontrollably—which will in turn conserve energy.

IMG Camp On Bona (Photo by Mark Allen)

At the end of the traveling portion of the day, you’ll pull into camp.  It’s time to put on some warm clothes, probably that big puffy jacket you’ve been carrying.  Tasks you’ll want to attend to in the evening are establishing a solid camp (done as a group on IMG trips), drying out any wet clothes, and continuing to hydrate and eat.  After dinner and enjoying your surroundings for a bit, get to bed at a decent hour to rest up.  The more time you can spend lying down, the more opportunity the body has to recover.  Fortunately, this applies to a certain degree even if you are not sleeping.

So whether you’re on Mt Rainier or any other mountain in the world, this general daily process will be roughly the same.  Throughout the day, and over the course of any trip, you want to approach the climb as you would any long term goal.  The mind has knowledge of the final objective, but its best to break the journey down into discrete, manageable chunks.  On day one, it can be counterproductive to fixate on the summit.  It’s helpful if you take the climb one day at a time.  Focus on the immediate goal for the day.  You can gain an idea of the day’s itinerary from your guide or your research, but you need to remain flexible with that vision as the day’s plans often change in the mountain environment.  Executing that itinerary successfully, while taking care of yourself, is your goal for the day.  Take each day as it comes, and enjoy the process.  Before you know it, you’ve amassed a number of successful victories in the journey to the summit and back!

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Up next for Chris:  Vinson down in Antarctica later this week, his first trip onto the ice.

November 7, 2011

Part 1 of our week long series “From A Guide’s Perspective”, IMG Guide Jenni Fogle describes a few things that can make or break a climb.

Jenni Fogle

Success and Failure in the Mountains
By Jenni Fogle

I don’t think anyone sets out on a climb expecting to fail. Some may have doubts or apprehension, but most expect to make it to the top. As an IMG guide, I always tell people that my job is to provide them with a safe, enjoyable and successful climb. Success as I see it is not the same for everyone. For many (for most) success is getting to the summit, but this isn’t always the case. I’m often asked, “What can I do to improve my chances for success?” Here are my top five suggestions, in order of least to most importance.

5. Pack only what you need, and nothing that you don’t need. Read the website before you show up for your climb. The people with the lightest, most effective equipment and clothing are those who read and follow the information on the IMG website. If you have questions about gear, call the office. If you are hesitant to spend the money for exactly what you need, just remind yourself that you need to do everything you can to improve your chances of success. You’ve already invested time training and probably money on airfare; how disappointed would you be if you had to turn around on summit day because your hands were just too cold?

4. Train hard. Most people register for their climbs several months in advance. Take advantage of that time to prepare. Join a gym, hire a trainer, or  train with partners. Do whatever it takes to stay motivated. Read the information on the IMG website regarding suggested training programs. Stack the cards in your favor! Get fit and feel better about yourself!

3. Eat well and stay hydrated on the climb. Your body needs fuel and water. Bring foods that you like, but that aren’t too heavy. Fresh foods on the first day are a great idea. The more you eat on your first day, the lighter your load will be, and the better you’ll feel! Drink plenty of water and/or electrolytes.

2. Listen to your guides. Listen to your guides. Listen to your guides. Chances are we’ve spent a lot more time in the mountains than you have, and you can probably learn something from us. That’s why you hired us, right? Our job is to keep you safe and help you have a good time. Trust us; our success is yours.

1. Have a great attitude. To me, success is much more than just getting to the top of a mountain. I’ve climbed with people who didn’t get anywhere near the top of the mountain they  were on but still had the time of their lives! We see many first-time mountaineers at IMG, and climbing a mountain like Rainier is often the hardest thing they’ve ever done. One of the most difficult aspects is facing the unknown. Show up with a sense of adventure, and be ready to make the best of whatever the mountain gives you. A fellow climber once told me the reason he climbs is, “You can’t lie to the mountains. The mountain will show you the truth.” The truth may be that you didn’t train hard enough, you packed too much stuff, the avalanche danger is too high, you don’t have enough energy to continue, or maybe the stars align and you have a fantastic adventure all the way to the summit and down. The truth is it’s all up to you!

I look forward to seeing you on an IMG climb, and wish you success, whatever that means for you!