Aconcagua & Mexico Team Covering Some Ground

January 25, 2016

It was a carry day yesterday to C1 for Jonathan Schrock and team on Aconcagua. Rest day at base camp today and hopefully moving up to C1 tomorrow.

For Josh McDowell and team in Mexico, it was an acclimatization hike around the area of Paseo de Cortez.

: Mexico team

: Acclimatization hike with a smoking Popo in the background

Today they make a carry to high camp on Ixta, returning to Cortez Pass this afternoon and the night spent at the Altzimoni Hut. Theyâ€™ll move up to high camp tomorrow. Nearby Popo is still smoking after all these years since becoming active again and effectively ending climbing there many years ago.

Phil Ershler

The Ice Is Nice In New Hampshire

January 24, 2016

IMG Senior Guide Craig John sent this report over the weekend, along with some great photos.Â Conditions have been stellar for ice climbing in New Hampshire.

“Paul started the weekend with a day of steep ice climbing.Â He climbed seven pitches of grade 3 and 4 ice.Â On our second day we made an ascent of Right Gully in Tuckerman’s Ravine on Mt. Washington. Conditions were fantastic. There was very little wind and visibility was up to 120 miles from the summit.Â And we saw no one else on the route!Â A great weekend in the White Mountains of New Hampshire.” – Craig John

George Dunn

Weekend Updates From Aconcagua & Mexico

January 24, 2016

Time for a weekend update on IMG teams on Aconcagua and in Mexico.

Letâ€™s start with Jonathan Schrock and team on Aconcagua. All members arrived at base camp without issues. Saturday was a rest/acclimatization day at base camp and the teamâ€™s plan for today is to make a carry to Camp 1. Base camp is around 13,600â€™ and C1 about 16,200â€™.Â Weather remains unsettled up high but that doesnâ€™t really affect the team yet. They can make progress lower on the mountain as long as things donâ€™t get too bad. So far, theyâ€™re making progress.

Ixta and Popo from the air

In Mexico, Josh McDowell, Charlotte Austin and team got together Saturday evening in Mexico City for their first dinner together. They head up towards Ixta today for an acclimatization hike and will be spending the night in the town of Amecameca. Gerardo Reyes, our friend and service provider in Mexico, sent me an email saying that conditions on the mountain are good, with some new snow. Letâ€™s see how it goes tomorrow when they make a carry up to their one camp on Ixta. The game is on.

Phil Ershler

And They’re Off

January 20, 2016

Let the trek to Base Camp begin.

Heard from Luke this morning down in Ecuador.Â They took a good shot at Chimborazo but bullet-proof ice, covered by a centimeter of snow at 18,900 ft, made a safe summit push unreasonable.Â No worries, summits of Cayambe and Antisana and getting this close on Chimborazo is a success in anyoneâ€™s book.Â Nice late breakfast in Banos where theyâ€™ll spend the day visiting the local waterfalls and then head back north to Quito and flights home tomorrow.Â This wraps up just a great trip in Ecuador.

On Aconcagua, Jonathan Schrock sent this photo before Martin, the team and he began their approach march.Â Three days of enjoyable walking to get to base camp, Plaza Argentina.Â Theyâ€™re ready to rock and roll.

There’s Ice In New England

January 19, 2016

: Say Cheese!

: New England Ice climbing provides some great training for the Kautz Route on Mt. Rainier.

The ice is coming in nicely in the White Mountains of New Hampshire!

Lead Guide Craig John spent a couple days on the ice last week and gladly reports that the warm spell is over. There has been recent precipitation and it’s been freezing up nicely for ice climbing.

George Dunn

Another Great Trip In Ouray

January 19, 2016

Lower Cascade Falls (Ann Sparks)

From: Ann Sparks
Sent: Wednesday, January 13, 2016 7:43 AM
To: George Dunn
Subject: Another great trip in Ouray!

George,

We had a GREAT TIME in Ouray!Â Day one was in the ice park then we had a mellow day at Dexter Creek Slabs then a good long hard day on Lower Cascade Falls AND Upper Cascade Falls.Â I guess lower cascade is rarely in and we were lucky.

Anyhow, it was another successful Ann/Guaca-Merle outing.Â We climb really well together and always laugh the entire time. Thanks so much for helping set it up.

Oh PS we are looking at other objectives like El Dorado Needle or El Dorado this summer.Â Talk soon!

Ann

News From The South

January 19, 2016

: Aconcagua awaits.

: The IL-76 on the ice in Antarctica. (Austin Shannon)

News from the South—-Austin and team got off the Ice without issue.Â The Twin Otter (aircraft) was waiting for them when they arrived at Vinson base camp and whisked them right to the Union Glacier.Â It was only a couple of hours before the IL 76 arrived and got them to Punta Arenas about midnight, that same day.Â Amazing. Â One short night at the hotel in Punta, a final lunch together and team members were heading off in different directions.Â Allâ€™s well that ends well with this Vinson Massif expedition.Â That bring our Vinson season to a close for this year.Â 3 expeditions and 3 expeditions reached the summit, all without a scratch.Â Dates for next yearâ€™s expeditions will be posted quite soon.Â Make your plans now as weâ€™ve sold out our trips for the last couple of years and had to turn climbers away.Â See you on the Ice next season.

In Ecuador, Luke said good-bye to a couple of our members who were there to climb Cayambe and Antisana.Â Our Chimborazo team is heading now with Luke and Romulo to make an attempt on Ecuadorâ€™s tallest peak.Â Itâ€™s a more demanding climb, but with success on Cayambe and Antisana, theyâ€™re feeling hopeful.

Another expedition has started on Aconcagua.Â Jonathan Schrock, Martin Lucero and team are heading to Penitentes today.Â Final packing occurs there and the approach starts tomorrow morning.Â Hereâ€™s hoping for favorable weather.Â The mountain has not made things easy so far this season.

Phil Ershler

Time For A Little R & R

January 17, 2016

Austinâ€™s update from Antarctica first â€“ as you all know, Austin and team summited Vinson yesterday (the 16th) and returned safely to high camp where they spent the night. They are descending now to Vinson base camp. A Twin Otter will be waiting and they are expecting to fly immediately back to the main camp at the Union Glacier. If all goes according to plan and the weather continues to hold, the IL 76 (big plane) is expected to fly to the Ice this evening (the 17th) and our team will be able to get on that flight back to Punta Arenas. Weâ€™ll keep fingers crossed that it all works. They could be having a hot shower and sleeping in a hotel bed by late tonight.

For Luke and team, itâ€™s a day off for a little R and R. Romuloâ€™s wife, Patricia, will be hosting the team to a meal with the main course being cuy. Rather than describe that here, Iâ€™ll let you all Google this Ecuadorian delicacy. Theyâ€™ll also spend some time with our friend, author, pilot, adventurer, photographer â€“ Jorge Anhalzer. It will be a very nice day. Then, some team members head home and some remain for an attempt on Chimborazo.

Luke forwarded several interesting photos from their ascent of Antisana. Persistence, determination and great route finding allowed the team to summit yesterday, the 16th. No small accomplishment given the difficulties up high on Antisana, as many guides know.

: On the climb

: Base camp on Antisanaa

: Summit of Antisana

: View From the top

Phil Ershler

Ecuador & Vinson Teams Score Summits

January 16, 2016

This morning on Antizana

In Ecuador, Luke and team had a nice summit day on Antizana. They found a way to get past the final large crevasse and stood on top. Great job. Next up for some of the team is an attempt on Chimborazo.

In Antarctica, Austin and team were rewarded for their patience with a good day to summit Vinson Massif. They will be back at high camp this evening and plan to descend to Vinson base camp tomorrow. Great effort.

Phil Ershler

Ecuador & Vinson Updates

January 15, 2016

Heading to the summit

Quick updates from Ecuador and Antarctica —- Luke and team are at high camp and will attempt Antisana in the morning. Stars are starting to come out.

Austin and team are at high camp on Vinson Massif and will attempt to summit in the morning. Low winds and clear.

Wish them all luck.

Phil Ershler