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All Is Well In Puerto Natales

February 1, 2016

Patagonia Team

Patagonia Team

After two days of traveling the group finally came together for a team dinner in Punta Arenas last night. Standard protocol is dinner at La Luna, my favorite local spot. Everyone was pretty tired so we kept it pretty short, but I could tell this group was going to get along just fine.

We’re in Puerto Natales today. 3 hour van ride after a quick tour of Punta this morning. We’re still missing Michal’s bag but between American Airlines, travel insurance and his credit card we’ll be able to piece it together by tomorrow evening. Everyone else passed their gear check just fine. Dinner tonight at El Bote then a free day to explore tomorrow.

So far so good…unless your name is Michal.

Tye

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Aconcagua Team In Position

January 31, 2016

A view on summit morning

A view on summit morning

Jonathan checked in today, reporting that the team and he had made their move to high camp.  Weather is good and winds were light.  All members made the move without issue.  That was all great news.  Plan is to prep summit gear, eat and drink, rest (as much is possible at that altitude) and get ready for a summit bid in the morning.  Forecast is favorable.  Now’s the time to see if all their patience and hard work will pay off.  They’ve done all they could to put themselves in a good position.  We wish them the best for tomorrow.

Phil Ershler

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Carstensz Climbers Reach Base Camp

January 31, 2016

On the way to New Zealand Pass
First views of Carstensz from near New Zealand Pass

Carstensz Base Camp
Some of the local porters

IMG guide Greg Vernovage reports that the team has a good acclimatization day at Nasidome Camp, and a second night for acclimatization on the Plateau at that site. Today, with the support of their porters, they climbed up and over New Zealand Pass to get to the Carstensz Base Camp. Everyone is doing well and they will be making their summit bid in the next day or two.

Eric Simonson

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Mexico’s A Wrap; Aconcagua Looking Good

January 30, 2016

Sunrise on Ixta

Sunrise on Ixta (photo: Josh McDowell)

The Saturday report is the following:
Josh McDowell and team are back in Mexico City and getting together this evening for one last dinner together.  Mexico was super kind to us in November but not so much this trip.  There will have to be a rematch.

News continues to be favorable from Jonathan Schrock and his Aconcagua team.  Calm winds and sunny for their carry today to high camp.  Plan is to move to high camp tomorrow and take a summit shot on Monday morning.  Weather forecast currently is favorable, at least through then.  When the fish are running, it’s time to go fishing.

Phil Ershler

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Carstensz Team At Nasidome Camp

January 30, 2016

Nasidome

Greg Vernovage called on the sat phone to report that the entire team was at Nasidome camp after 3 helicopter flights in the B3 from Timika. They met their Indonesian porters and camp staff and now they are going to take a rest / acclimatization day.  So far, so good!

Eric Simonson

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A Big Move On Aconcagua

January 29, 2016

Pico de Orizaba

Pico de Orizaba

Josh checked in this morning from Mexico.  The crew took their shot at the summit of Orizaba this morning but came up short.  We had a super tight guide to climber ratio on this trip, just over 1 to 2, but today, with the icy conditions, it wasn’t quite enough.  All our climbers took a shot this morning.  One wasn’t quite feeling it after a couple of hours and returned to the high hut with one of our 3 guides.  Another of our climbers made a similar decision another hour or two higher as the team was just getting on the upper glacier.  It was icy this morning and Josh had to make the tough call.  1 to 5 would only have been a consideration in the most ideal of climbing conditions.  That wasn’t the case today and Josh knew they had to descend together.  That is never an easy decision but it’s the type of difficult decision a guide has to make.  A disappointment, for sure, but everyone’s down with 10 fingers, 10 toes and in one piece.  They’re spending tonight at the Reyes compound in Tlachichuca and returning to Mexico City in the morning.

On Aconcagua, Jonathan and team pushed hard in spite of wind and new snow and got into C2.  What a weather year on Aconcagua!  This was a big move for the team as there’s a lull in the winds forecasted for early next week and the team’s trying to get into position to take advantage, if it occurs.  Everyone’s doing well and the chess game continues.

Phil Ershler

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2016 Prep For Rainier Talks At Local REI’s Announced

January 29, 2016

Rainier 3.8.11 Balderach

Whether you’re climbing Mt. Rainier with IMG, with some friends, or even with one of our competitors, why not swing by REI for a Prep For Rainier talk and learn a couple things from the experts. We’ll go over the main routes, discuss some training recommendations and of course go over a lot of the gear.  Below are the dates, times, locations and the guides doing the presentations. Bring your questions!

Date Time Location Guide
4-Feb 6:30pm – 8:00pm Alderwood Charlotte Austin
23-Feb 7:00pm – 8:30pm Redmond Dallas Glass
3-Mar 7:00pm – 8:30pm Issaquah George Dunn
9-Mar 7:00pm – 8:30pm Seattle Justin Merle
15-Mar 7:00pm – 8:30pm Tacoma Jason Edwards
31-Mar 6:30pm – 8:00pm Southcenter Peter Dale
5-Apr 6:30pm – 8:00pm Olympia Robert Jantzen
12-Apr 7:00pm – 8:30pm Redmond Liz Meder
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Carstensz Pyramid Expedition Is Officially Underway

January 29, 2016

The Team
The Team
View of the Freeport Mine from helicopter
View of the Freeport Mine from helicopter

Timika, Papua
Timika, Papua
Greg and the Indonesian team with the AS 350B3 helicopter in Timika
Greg and the Indonesian team with the AS 350B3 helicopter in Timika

 

After first flying to Bali, Greg and the team traveled to Timika in Papua. The past few days the team has been playing the proverbial waiting game. There was an issue with the helicopter which we’re happy to report has been resolved.

“We are ready to go! All the gear had been checked and weighed. It’s one of the challenges of climbing Carstensz. We have our harnesses rigged and have worked through our systems. We will be out the door tomorrow morning on the B3! Visiting this town has been interesting. Now it’s time to go climbing!” said Greg.

The weather has been good lately, and Greg reports some smoke and haze in the air from local forest fires. Our porters have hiked in through the jungle to the set up our Nasidome camp and the team is looking forward to meeting them.

Time to go!

Eric Simonson

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No Go On Ixta This Morning

January 27, 2016

Ixta

Ixta

Josh let us know that Ixta was a ‘no go’ this morning.  They started up from high camp in spite of the winds, hoping they’d die down as the team approached sunrise.  No such luck.  Winds simply stayed too high to be within the team’s comfort zone and margin of safety.  ‘Stuff’ happens but everyone’s down, fine and heading for the showers in the city of Puebla.  Off to Tlachichuca in the morning, lunch with the Reyes family and then the 4-wheel drive up to the hut.  Orizaba awaits.

Orizaba ho.

Phil Ershler

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Updates From Mexico & Argentina

January 26, 2016

Trail to C1

Trail to C1

Short and sweet – updates from down South……In Mexico, Josh McDowell and crew are at high camp on Ixta.  Windy but things should be calming down.  Team’s planning on taking a shot first thing in the morning.

On Aconcagua, Jonathan Schrock and team have moved in to C1 (16,200’).  Plan is to make a carry tomorrow to C2.  Calming conditions forecasted for the weekend and team hopes to put themselves into position to take advantage of any good climbing conditions.

Phil Ershler

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