IMG blog
  • Facebook
  • Instagram
  • Vimeo
  • YouTube
  • RSS
  • Blog Home
  • IMG Home
  • Mt. Rainier
    • Mt. Rainier Climbs Schedule
    • Winter Ski & Avalanche Training
  • Expeditions
    • IMG Expeditions Filter
    • Seven Summits
    • Trip Reports
    • Client Comments
  • Newsletter Sign-up
  • Contact Us

A Thank You Note From Rob

April 5, 2016

What was once Rob's van.
What was once Rob’s van.
Rob setting up a tent on Aconcagua.
Rob setting up a tent on Aconcagua.


A few weeks ago we posted a note about a fire that took out IMG Guide Rob Jantzen’s van and subsequent home… Here’s a follow-up from Rob himself:

—————

I would like to say a huge thank you to IMG, my fellow guides, clients, people I don’t even know, and the amazing climbing community. A few weeks ago I had the unfortunate experience of having the van I was living in catch fire and take nearly everything I owned with it.

I was devastated, looking forward I could only imagine the months of hard work facing me as I rebuilt my life. However, just 3 weeks later, I now have a very different outlook on the future. Thanks to the generosity of the community around IMG I have received an unbelievable amount of support. It all helped – the monetary donations, places to stay, gear, clothes, and of course the countless well wishes. Every challenge I have faced has been met not just by me, but by an outstanding network of people and resources.

I would like to specifically thank the IMG management and owners for taking care of me like family. From the very start they were behind me and have been more supportive than I could have ever asked for. I would also like to thank the wonderful folks at Outdoor Research who put together a care package of clothes. My wardrobe has never been as stylish and comfortable as it is now!

And to all those who have supported me during this time. I am so lucky to be a part of this community and cannot put into words the depth of my gratitude.

Thank you all!

Robert Jantzen

Read More

Good Times On Mt. Whitney

March 29, 2016

March 19-22 team at High Camp (Brandon, Jeremy, Matt, Amanda, Doug & George). (Photo by Tristan)

March 19-22 team at High Camp (Brandon, Jeremy, Matt, Amanda, Doug & George). (Photo by Tristan)

Snow conditions are very good this year on Mt. Whitney. Our first climb of the season was able to summit in good weather. I participated in the second climb March 19-22.

I had planned to pass on Whitney this year, but the chance to climb with my younger son Jeremy who goes to school down in CA was all I needed to be convinced.

Our group was top notch! Premier SMI guides Tristan  and Matt;  Doug, a friend from past programs with daughter Amanda; and Brandon, another past IMG customer. Sadly, Llewellen, veteran of many climbs,  broke his ankle at a ski area just before the climb and had to bow out.

The hike in was lovely (except for the 50+ pound packs), every day was warm and sunny. The only problem was the high winds advisory for summit day! We did our best, but an update of increasingly high winds put us on standby for summit day, and finally we opted to hike out a day early rather than risk having our camp torn apart by 65 mile an hour winds. The hike out was lovely, and so was the barbecued sandwich and beer down in Lone Pine for lunch.

On reflection, I had a wonderful time. I loved every minute of it. We all agreed to come back next year to make it to the top. I guess I’m in for another year!

George Dunn
IMG Partner

Read More

Everest Climbing Permits Secured and a Visit with Liz Hawley

March 26, 2016

We had a great day in Kathmandu.  It started off with a cup of early morning coffee with a few of the gang downstairs at the Hotel Tibet working through our jet lag.  Then, we sent all the climbers’  Base Camp duffels out the door after breakfast to start their journey to EBC.

After that we had a very good rooftop meeting with the first team members and their guides Justin Merle and Emily Johnston, to go over the plans for the trek to Base Camp.  This group is going to have a fun trek to EBC; I can tell already.  They will be flying tomorrow morning to Lukla.

After the team meeting, we went to the Ministry to get our four climbing permits (3 for Everest, 1 for Lhotse).  It is official: we have our 2016 Everest climbing permits!  Big shout out to Pasang and Mohan for all their help over the last few days working with the Ministry staff to get the permits finished.

IMG guides Jonathan Schrock, Greg Vernovage, Josh McDowell, Ang Jangbu, and Justin Merle with the legendary Liz Hawley in Kathmandu
IMG guides Jonathan Schrock, Justin Merle, Josh McDowell, and Greg Vernovage in front of the Ministry building in Kathmandu (photo: Ang Jangbu)
Mohan and Pasang (in blue coats) along with the IMG guides and ministry officials with the expedition climbing permits (photo: Ang Jangbu)


On our way back to the hotel, we decided to stop in to visit Liz Hawley.  It is always nice to visit for a few minutes with Ms. Hawley before the Everest Season.  Pretty simple really, “Whenever you have the chance to be in the presence of greatness, you make sure to take the opportunity.”

Finally,  Ang Jangbu just got off the phone with Nuru Gyalzen at EBC. Sherpas now have all of the big tents up. They are building the Puja alter tomorrow, and then they need to work on the interior of the two-member kitchen tents. After that all they have to do is to make platforms for dozens of sleeping tents.  Fortunately, the weather at EBC has improved, and there are now sherpas pulling into base camp every day for other teams.

Tonight is the Welcome Dinner.  Just like Justin said this morning, “All of the training is complete, and now we are here.”  Tonight we will celebrate the start of the expedition!  Thanks to everyone who has helped get us here.  It has been a heck of a year.

-Greg Vernovage, Expedition Leader

Follow the 2016 IMG Everest Expedition Updates Here

Read More

What A Difference A Couple Days Makes

March 23, 2016

Jay & John
Jay & John
Justin
Justin


Last Friday the father and son team (Jay and Jarod) and I reached the summit of Mt. Washington via the Lion’s Head Route. It may have been the ordinary route but this was no ordinary day. The winds were very strong with gusts over 100mph when we started climbing. Luckily the wind had died down some by the time we hit tree line and we were able to advance to the summit despite the extremely cold temperatures, stiff winds and visibility at about 50 ft. Jay and Jarod climbed like pros to the frozen summit which we had all to ourselves as all other parties on the mountain that day abandoned their summit attempt and turned around.

Two days later Justin and I climbed to the summit via Left Gully in Tuckerman’s Ravine. What a difference 48 hours made! We had a warm sunny day with perfect conditions to crampon up the gully which reaches 60 degrees in steepness. This time there were a lot of people headed to the top but our route helped us avoid the crowds.

And two days later the winds returned as Joe and I tried to reach the summit but were turned back because of winds in excess of 100mph. When we reached Lion’s Head Rock the winds were so strong that we could barely stay upright. Pushing on would have been impossible. Luckily Joe had already climbed Odell’s Gully this winter, one of the longer ice climbing routes on Mt. Washington.

It’s been a great season in the White Mountains! A few more climbs and we’ll be wrapped for the season.

Craig John

Read More

Still Climbing Mt. Washington

March 14, 2016


This weekend Erik, Soojin and I climbed Mt. Washington by the Lion’s Head Route. When we started for the summit the winds on top were a steady 80 mph with gusts up to 97 mph. The weather report predicted a rapid drop in the winds and we were glad that the powers that be cooperated with the meteorologists. The warm weather had melted quite a bit of snow since I was on the summit last week but there was still enough of the cold white stuff to feel like winter. The trail was icy right from the parking lot so the micro spikes we had with us came in handy before we hit the steep stuff and needed crampons. The wind was ripping up on the summit and as we approached the top it sounded like a freight train. But it’s bark was bigger than it’s bite and though it knocked us around a bit, it was only on the actual summit that we were pushed around. It was cold on top so after taking a few pictures we started our descent arriving back in the parking lot about three hours later. As usual, it was a fine day to be out in the mountains of New England.

IMG Lead Guide Craig John

 

Read More

Mt Washington, Two Summits In Two Days

March 7, 2016

Summit of Mt Washington
Summit of Mt Washington
Right Gully in Tuckerman's Ravine
Right Gully in Tuckerman’s Ravine

 

This Saturday Matt, Kate and I climbed to the summit of Mt. Washington via the Lion’s Head Route. It was a bluebird day. Clear skies and almost no wind. Kate and Matt climbed like pros and completed the nine mile trip with 4000 ft of elevation gain and loss in under seven hours.

The next day Bert and I climbed to the summit via Right Gully in Tuckerman’s Ravine. It wasn’t the bluebird day we had on Saturday but it was still pretty good as there was just a little wind and the cloud that was building above the mountain never actually touched down on the summit during our climb. Bert climbed like a veteran up the steep gully and reached the summit in fine style.

We still have a few dates open in March and April so if you haven’t climbed the highest mountain in New England give us a call and reserve your spot!

IMG Guide Craig John

Read More

Aconcagua Season Comes To A Close

February 24, 2016

A motley crew to wrap up the season for IMG!

A motley crew to wrap up the season for IMG!

Happy to report that the team had an uneventful walk out and arrived in Mendoza last evening.  It’s a wrap.  Some members are already on their way home while others are enjoying the ambiance of Mendoza for the next day or two.  Safe, successful and enjoyable are the goals and it looks like the team accomplished all three.  Our congratulations to Mike’s crew and our thanks to everyone who joined IMG this season on Aconcagua.  It all starts again for Aconcagua in mid-December, 2016.

Phil Ershler

Read More

IMG Team Summits Aconcagua

February 21, 2016

Summit cross on Aconcagua

Summit cross on Aconcagua

Always nice to hear that another IMG team reached the summit of Aconcagua.  Even better to hear that they’re all back at high camp and doing fine.  The forecast held and the team had great weather for their climb.  That in no way diminishes the effort required to summit Aconcagua safely.  23,000 ft is high, any way you cut it.  Nothing higher in the Western Hemisphere.  Aconcagua can be as nasty and demanding on the summit day as any mountain we guide.  Congratulations to the team and to the guides.  Good decisions, good teamwork and good effort by all.

Tomorrow they descend to base camp, Plaza Mulas, on the Horcones Valley side of the mountain.  Sort of an extra bonus to go up one side and out another.  Mendoza is two days of effort away.

Phil Ershler

Read More

And Then There Was One

February 20, 2016

Cerro Aconcagua

Cerro Aconcagua

And now there’s one.  IMG’s first four Aconcagua expeditions are now complete, leaving Mike Hamill, Sara Cohen, Martin Lucero and team at high camp, ready to make their summit bid in the morning.  Forecasts are only forecasts but at least they have a good one.  Weather is pretty much perfect today and should remain quite good tomorrow.  Like the Magic 8 Ball says: “signs say yes.”  Wish them luck.

Phil Ershler

Read More

Aconcagua Team Carrying To High Camp

February 19, 2016

Luke Reilly with the first group of summiters earlier this week

Luke Reilly with the first group of summiters earlier this week

 

Time for a couple of Aconcagua updates – Luke, Nickel, Leo and team are done.  Back in Mendoza now, enjoying the great food and drink available there and getting things cleaned up and packed up for their return trips home.  Congratulations, again, to Bill, Mathieu, David, Nick and Tiffany on a job well done!  We couldn’t be happier for them.

Mike Hamill’s team took yesterday off at C2 and are making their carry now to high camp.  Don’t want to jinx anything but the forecast is looking good.  There’s a ‘wind window’ for Saturday and Sunday and Mike and crew are planning their summit shot for Monday morning.  They’re in the right position, let’s hope it’s the right time.  Stay tuned.

Phil Ershler

Read More
«‹224225226227228›»

Archives

Categories

© 1998- International Mountain Guides. All rights reserved.