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Another Rainier Summit

May 31, 2016

The Rainier summits keep on coming! This morning’s team lead by Erica Engle had 10 on top at around 7 am. Reports are that the weather is beautiful with a cloudless sky. Happy climbing!

Some of the summit team (photo credits Erica Engle)

Some of the summit team (photo credits Erica Engle)

Angie

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Another Successful Rainier Trip!

May 26, 2016

The Rainier season is certainly off to a great start! Yesterday’s team led by guide Dallas Glass returned from the mountain with smiles on their faces, with 10 people on top. Report is that the weather above 8,000 feet is sunny and gorgeous, so if you’re in Seattle right now, don’t let the overcast weather deceive you! Maybe just head up into the mountains if you’re looking for a little sunshine…

Guide Dustin Balderach's rope team at sunrise (Nate Sievert)
Guide Dustin Balderach’s rope team at sunrise (Nate Sievert)
The team on the summit (Dustin Balderach)
Guide Erica Engle standing on Columbia Crest (Nate Sievert)

 

 

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Crack Open the Swedish Fish

May 24, 2016

IMG Guide Josh McDowell on the summit of Everest
IMG Guide Josh McDowell on the summit of Everest
Summit Swedish Fish

 

Before IMG Everest Expedition Leader Greg Vernovage left for Nepal he left behind a box of Swedish Fish for the office to crack open should the IMG Everest Team reach the summit.

We’re happy to report that we opened the box yesterday!

If you’ve been hiding under a rock and missed our 2016 Everest Coverage do yourself a favor and click here and read all about it!

Tye Chapman

 

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5/23/16 Rainier Trip: Success!

Glad to report that the 5/20/16-5/23/16 Rainier trip via the Disappointment Cleaver was a resounding success, with all of our clients summitting. The weather was clear and sunny above 8500 feet. Everyone had a great experience and is psyched on their summit!

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Early morning break on the route. Credits Austin Shannon

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Writing in the summit register. Credits Austin Shannon

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The group (and their beers) back at HQ. Credits George Dunn.

 

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First IMG Rainier Summits Of The Season

May 13, 2016

100% on top this morning! (Photo by Rikki Dunn)

100% on top this morning! (Photo by Rikki Dunn)

Right on cue the radio cracked at 8:30 this morning with IMG Lead Guide Andy Polloczek’s voice saying “100% on top, almost down to the top of the cleaver. All is well”!  That’s a pretty good way to start the season!

Later this afternoon, Dallas Glass called in his 4:30 check-in to report that everything is great at Camp Muir.  His team will move to the Ingraham Flats tomorrow and hopefully summit on Sunday.

The Rainier season is underway!

Tye Chapman

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The IMG Mt. Rainier Season Is Officially Underway

May 10, 2016

The Cleaver on May 8 (Dallas Glass)

The Cleaver on May 8 (Dallas Glass)

The last two weeks have been a blur as we get prepared for the 2016 Rainier climbing season. The guides have been busting their butts getting the mountain ready for the season. Below is a highly condensed version of the Pre-Season To Do List

  • Guide Training
  • Pre-season Guide BBQ
  • New Guide Training
  • Set up the Weatherport at Camp Muir
  • Set up the camp at the Ingraham Flats
  • Issue the guides their 2016 Outdoor Research Guide Gear
  • Establish the route for the start of the season
  • Lock down the summer guide schedule
  • Unpack the new boots
  • Replace the ropes
  • Inventory Camp Muir
  • Check & recheck all the tents for the mountain
  • Crush George’s Credit Card with some big Amazon.com purchases
  • Mow
  • Weed whack
  • Mow again
  • Limb the trees & burn said limbs
  • Get a 2016 Summit Board
  • Set up the Eureka tents HQ
  • Wash the vans and trailers
  • Go to Costco and buy a bunch of food
  • Mow again!
  • Gas up the vans
  • Load up and head to the trailhead!

Our first climb goes up to Camp Muir tomorrow! Let’s get this season underway!

Tye Chapman

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A New Look To The IMG Website

May 4, 2016

IMG 2.0

Aside from the big announcement last week about the Denali contract, we’re happy to report some more big changes here at IMG! Over the past few months IMG Web Guru Anya Zolotusky has been hard at work behind the scenes updating the IMG Website.  Take it for a spin!

It has been a big project and there are likely some bugs to be worked out so feel free to send us some feedback if you see something amiss!

IMG Team

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Ready For The Start Of The Rainier Summer Season

May 3, 2016

IMG Guides
IMG Guides
Working with avalanche transceivers
Working with avalanche transceivers
Lowering a rescue sled in steep terrain
Lowering a rescue sled in steep terrain

 

Last weekend was IMG’s spring guide training. Beautiful weather helped add to the success and enjoyment of the program. IMG holds three main guide training sessions each year, spring, fall and winter with each session focusing on different terrain and conditions.

This weekend, our guides reviewed safety and rescue skills: avalanche training, improvised sled construction and lowering sleds in steep terrain. They will be ready when the season starts! On Monday, our new guide candidates headed up to Muir with an instructor team for additional training on the mountain. They will spend three days honing their skills.

This coming weekend we’ll have a big guide team up at Camp Muir getting the camps at Muir and Ingraham Flats all set up for the summer. They will also work on the upper mountain with the other two guide services making sure the route is all set for our first groups.

IMG’s first climb of the season starts at our headquarters on May 10. Let the fun begin!

George Dunn

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Denali Contract Announcement

April 27, 2016

IMG Guides Mike Haft and Peter Dale On the summit of Denali

IMG Guides Mike Haft and Peter Dale On the summit of Denali

It is with great excitement and pride that IMG Denali, LLC  announces having been awarded a 10 year contract by the National Park Service to guide on Denali.   IMG Denali, LLC is a new company formed in 2014 by International Mountain Guides, LLC  and our long-time friend, past climbing partner and guide, Dr. Daniel Mann.  Dan lives in Fairbanks and is an Assistant Professor in the Department of Geosciences at the University of Alaska and a Senior Research Scientist at the Institute of Arctic Biology at the University of Alaska.  We have known Dan since the 1970’s and have guided with him on Rainier, Denali and Everest. In addition to his many climbs around the world, Dan’s expertise in environmental science will further strengthen IMG’s commitment to mountain conservation and education. International Mountain Guides, LLC partners Paul Baugher, George Dunn, Phil Ershler and Eric Simonson look forward to working with Dan Mann and bringing our combined skills and experience to the challenge of guiding on Denali and in Denali National Park beginning in May 2017.

IMG Denali

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White Mountain Winter Season Ends On A High Note

April 12, 2016

Climbing Left Gully in Tuckerman's Ravine.

Climbing Left Gully in Tuckerman’s Ravine.

Matt, Kate and I made an ascent of Left Gully in Tuckerman’s Ravine last Sunday in near perfect conditions. Our first day was spent doing some training with ice axe arrest, cramponning and a variety of rope travel skills including rappelling. This prepared us to tackle the gully which reaches near 60 degrees in steepness. Luckily some high winds the previous day blew any unconsolidated snow  out of the gully and made for great conditions to crampon up to the top of the ravine. The sun was out all day and the views of the northern Presidential Range was spectacular. We could also see peaks in the state of Maine. This was Matt and Kate’s second trip the  White Mountains this winter and we haven’t seen the last of them. They are signed up to tackle Rainier with us this summer and are making plans to come back to New Hampshire next winter for some ice climbing.

Our winter season in the White Mountains of New Hampshire ended on a high note. But we’re already looking forward to next winter and hope you’ll join us to climb some of the most classic ice routes in the country or for an ascent of Mt. Washington.

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