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Excitement at Barufu High Camp

Kili on the hike to Barafu (Dustin Balderach)
Kili on the hike to Barafu (Dustin Balderach)
Looking down at Barafu Camp (Dustin Balderach)
Looking down at Barafu Camp (Dustin Balderach)

 

IMG Senior Guide, Phunuru Sherpa, just called in from Barafu High Camp (~15,200 ft) on Kili with more good news. All is well with the team and they will leave Barafu at midnight for the summit. That will be around 2pm for us here on the west coast of the US. The report from Phunuru is that the weather continues to be great and there are a lot of other teams at Barafu who will also be climbing tonight. Barafu is a very interesting camp strung out along a rocky ridge with amazing views all around. The team will likely be too excited to get much sleep tonight, but thats just fine. Eating, drinking and resting is all that the team needs to be well prepared for the big day. And it will be a big day! About 4,000 feet of elevation gain to the top before descending all that and more down to the thick air of their last camp at around 10,000 ft. Probably a 16+ hour day but, wow, it is amazing! And so worth the effort! We look forward to hearing from Phunuru from the summit sometime this evening. Good luck team!

 

Dustin Balderach

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Relaxing at Karanga Camp

August 4, 2016

Kili from Barranco Camp (Photo: Phunuru Sherpa)
Kili from Barranco Camp (Photo: Phunuru Sherpa)
Climbing the Barranco Wall (Photo: Dustin Balderach)
Climbing the Barranco Wall (Photo: Dustin Balderach)
Kili from Karanga Camp (Photo: Dustin Balderach)
Kili from Karanga Camp (Photo: Dustin Balderach)

 

Our Kili team has been doing great the past several days. Everyone is feeling fine and the weather has been nice. Can’t ask for much more than that. Oh, and did we mention the views? Those aren’t bad either! Overnight (for us) the team climbed from Barranco Camp (~13,000 ft) up to the top of the Barranco Wall at around 14,000 feet. This is a fun day with some minor rock scrambling using your hands. The Wall looks much more intimidating from Barranco Camp than it actually is. The Kili porters climb the Barranco Wall with close to 50 lbs of gear — mostly on their heads! They are amazing. Once on top of the Barranco Wall the team traversed a few minor valleys before arriving at Karanga Camp at around 13,300 ft. Another great acclimatization day and a fairly short day one at that. A hot lunch was awaiting the team at camp and then they spent the afternoon relaxing and enjoying the views. Tomorrow is another short day for the team as they climb from Karanga Camp up to Barafu Camp. Only 3 or 4 hours of hiking and a couple thousand feet of vertical to climb, but its a slow walk at these altitudes. They are getting closer and the excitement is growing!

Dustin Balderach

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Machu Picchu Team Nears End Of Trek!

August 3, 2016

Approaching Machu Picchu from the Sun Gate.

Approaching Machu Picchu from the Sun Gate.

We received a brief report from Lead Guide Adam Angel today, August 3. Here is Adam’s report:

“Team is strong and having a great time. Looking down on Aguas Calientes from Phuyupatamarca. Excited for tomorrow!”

The team will depart their last camp before dawn tomorrow in order to arrive at the Sun Gate in the early morning light. They’ll spend the morning touring Machu Picchu, rejoin with the non-trekking members of the team and then catch a shuttle bus down to town for well-deserved showers and dinner. The team will have the following morning to head back up to Machu Picchu for additional exploration. The group is experiencing what they all came to Peru for, and my best guess is they are having an experience they’ll remember the rest of their lives!

George Dunn

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Heck Of A Day On Kilimanjaro

August 3, 2016

Team in route to the lava tower (Phunuru Sherpa)
Team in route to the lava tower (Phunuru Sherpa)
All smiles at Lava Tower (Phunuru Sherpa)
All smiles at Lava Tower (Phunuru Sherpa)
Literally on top of Lava Tower (Phunuru Sherpa)
Literally on top of Lava Tower (Phunuru Sherpa)

IMG Senior Guide, Phunuru Sherpa, sent us more pictures overnight.  You can see a few things from the photos right away. First, the weather is perfect. Can’t really improve on that! Second, this group is having fun. Lots of smiles all around. While we were all sleeping over here last night, Phunuru and Team climbed up to Lava Tower at around 15,000 feet, then descended down to Barranco Camp at around 13,000 feet. The views on this stretch are amazing. The first half of the day you are walking straight towards Kili. Then you get up to Lava Tower and have lunch. Then you start traversing the upper mountain passing underneath (but not directly) some of the upper glaciers. On top of all that, this an excellent acclimatization day adhering to the mountaineer’s adage of ‘climb high and sleep low.’ That is one of the reasons that make the Machame route our preferred route on Kili – its excellent for acclimatization. Add an extra day in there – we do 7 days while most groups squeeze it into 6 – and this is a recipe for success! Tomorrow is one of my favorite days on Kili, the Barranco Wall! Stayed tuned.

Dustin Balderach

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Tough Day On Illimani

August 2, 2016

Andy's climbing route. (Greg Vernovage)

Andy’s climbing route. (Greg Vernovage)

 

Andy just called after returning to Illimani BC.  The Team was up early and gave it their best shot today.  Unfortunately, the mountain got the upper hand.  For those of you who have climbed Mount Rainier, I will use examples from a couple different routes to describe their day.

Out of the High Camp on Illimani, the Team took a rocky ridge, like the “Disappointment Cleaver on steroids.”  After this section, the team battled through tall “penitentes” (these are ice pinnacles produced by strong sunshine at high altitude, and they make travel slow and difficult).  Then, the team started up the last part of the climb but the conditions were considerably more icy than normal.  Andy called it  “a little steeper than the Kautz chute…oh yeah, and the Kautz chute above 6,000 meters!”

The Team made the call to turn around and leave the summit for another time.  Good job making a tough call. Getting into that terrain and working through the different challenges will make everyone a better climber and everyone should feel great about getting that high during a dry year in the Cordillera Real

Tomorrow, the Team will head to the trailhead for a barbeque, before heading back to La Paz.  Great effort everyone!

Greg Vernovage

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The Picket Range & More In The North Cascades

August 2, 2016

Selfie on top of Mt. Degenhardt
Selfie on top of Mt. Degenhardt
The Pickets (Austin Shannon)
The Pickets (Austin Shannon)

Looking for the full Cascade experience? The Picket Range has all you need and more!  Climbing in the Cascades will test a climber to his or her absolute end.  The Picket Range is no exception.  I recently had the opportunity to guide a trip to the Southern Pickets.  Peaks such as Inspiration (7,880ft), Degenhardt (8,000ft), and West McMillan Spire (8,000ft) were on the top of our tick list.   The hike from the parking lot to camp in Terror Basin is 6,000ft of elevation gain over just a few miles!

Yes the Pickets are rugged; yes they are the most remote range in Washington State.  But they are every bit worth the effort.  The remote campsite of Terror Basin is everything the alpine climber can hope for.  Beautiful streams running by the campsite.  Few visitors.  And perfect panorama views of the Southern Pickets.  One major advantage to the long rugged approach is, once your there most of the work is done.  Many summits are available from the Terror Basin campsite.

The climbing on Degenhardt and West McMillan spire is wonderful.  It offers climbers great alpine exposure, magnificent views of Mt. Baker and Mt. Shuksan to the North and Glacier Peak and Mt. Rainier to the south.  If you’re a climber looking for more to explore in Washington, I highly recommend the Picket Range.

After we had two great summits of Degnhardt and West McMillian Spire we headed over Washington Pass to the small town of Mazama, Washington.  Mazama is a climber’s paradise.  Great places to eat, fun swimming holes on the river, and spectacular granite climbing make Mazama a true destination climbing spot.

The Goat Wall is just 4 miles up lost river road outside Mazama.  Prime Rib of Goat is a Mazama classic.  This route is an 11 pitch 1300’ grade III sport climb.   Prime Rib is a great summer climb when the temperature is hot in the valley.  The route itself is in the shade all day and gets any sort of valley breeze.  After our tough ascents in the Picket Range the short approach of The Goat wall was welcomed.

IMG Lead Guide Austin Shannon

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Kili Team At Shira Camp

August 2, 2016

Tents at Shira Camp (Phunuru Sherpa)
Tents at Shira Camp (Phunuru Sherpa)
Hiking up to Shira Camp (Phunuru Sherpa)
Hiking up to Shira Camp (Phunuru Sherpa)
Team at Shira Camp (Phunuru Sherpa)
Team at Shira Camp (Phunuru Sherpa)

 

We received several pictures from IMG Senior Guide, Phunuru Sherpa, overnight. The pictures really tell the story on this one. All is well at Shira Camp on Kilimanjaro. Fabulous weather makes for fabulous views as you break out of the forest and get your first glimpse of the mountain in route to the Shira plateau. At around 12,500 ft, Shira camp is one of my personal favorite camps on Kili. Its seems there is always at least a peek of the mountain when its cloudy. And when its clear… wow, the views are fantastic. Kilimanjaro is right in your face. Opposite your view of Kili itself are views of Shira Ridge and Mt Meru in the other direction. Truly a great spot to spend an afternoon and evening. The hike tomorrow to Barranco Camp is equally impressive. We wish the team continued good weather!

Dustin Balderach

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Bolivia Team At Nido de Condores

August 1, 2016

Nido de Condores (Greg Vernovage)
Nido de Condores (Greg Vernovage)
Looking up the route from Nido de Condores (Greg Vernovage)
Looking up the route from Nido de Condores (Greg Vernovage)

Andy and the Team just checked in from the Condor’s Nest at 18,000’.  This is not the easiest climb to High Camp.  The route out of Base Camp gets you into your groove and after a few switch backs, you find yourself having lunch at the base of the HC ridge.  Once on the ridge, you pay attention to your hand and foot placement.

At Nido de Condores, you can see the route winding up the mountain and onto the final summit ridge.  Illimani (21,200’) is real climbing!  The plan for the Team is to get moving at 2:30 am.  Andy and the Guide Team took a look at the lower end of the climb and report: “It will be fun.  We have enough gear and rope and will likely make a few decisions when we get on the steep sections.”  Andy was referring to the area known as the “stairway to heaven”, a long steep section that can either be pitched out or fixed.

Sounds fun!

Greg Vernovage

 

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Machu Picchu Team Hits The Trail

August 1, 2016

Team dinner in Cusco (Adam Angel)

Team dinner in Cusco (Adam Angel)

IMG lead guide Adam Angel has been checking in the past two days as his group arrived in Cusco, Peru safely on July 29. They toured the Sacred Valley yesterday, spent a last night at a hotel near the starting point of the Inca Trail, and are now safely on their way on the first day of the trek. The non-trekking members of the team are touring the Sacred Valley and returning to Cusco tonight to continue the program. All members of the team remain healthy and happy!

George Dunn

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Alps Classic Team Summits Mont Blanc

August 1, 2016

The team on top (Matt Farmer)

The team on top (Matt Farmer)

IMG Lead Guide Matt Farmer sent an update from the high mountain hut on Mont Blanc today. Farmer reports that the team powered up to the summit of Mont Blanc this morning and are back to the Gouter Hut resting, eating and drinking. They’ll descend down to the town of Chamonix in the morning for showers and a bit of time in town.

George Dunn

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