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Cleaning Ama Dablam

November 21, 2018

Ama Dablam (Adam Clark)

IMG Sherpa Guide, Phunuru Sherpa checked in from Phortse after finishing up a great Ama Dablam season for IMG. The Sagarmatha Pollution Control Committee (SPCC) has recently taken over fixing for Ama Dablam. Of note, the SPCC has been in charge of fixing the Khumbu Icefall on Mount Everest for years and is in charge of the Icefall Doctors.

Cleaning the route (Phunuru Sherpa)
A “Rats Nest” (Phunuru Sherpa)

 

The SPCC has hired 12 Sherpas (6 Sherpas from Phortse and 6 Sherpas from Pangboche) to clean old ropes from Ama Dablam. Phunuru spoke to one of our IMG Sherpa, Palden Namgyal from Phortse. Palden Namgyal has reported that the Sherpa Team has already finished cleaning old ropes from Base Camp to Camp 2 and they are planning on cleaning the old ropes to the summit in the following 2 days. The SPCC has done a great job this year investing $50,000 towards the fixing and cleaning of Ama Dablam.

After cleaning and adding new anchors (Phunuru Sherpa)

During the 2017 Ama Dablam Season, Phunuru spent a lot of time cleaning old rope and adding more anchors to the Yellow Tower. It is a Team effort when climbing these Himalayan Peaks and we want to thank all of the Sherpa for their hard work!

Are you ready to climb Ama Dablam in 2019?

Greg Vernovage

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Little Tahoma – Experience The Alpine!

November 15, 2018

Little Tahoma (Luke Reilly)

 

Experience the alpine with IMG on a Little Tahoma Seminar! This 5 1/2 day program is set in a true mountaineering environment on Washington’s 3rd highest peak. Teams work their way up 11,137′ Little T in expedition style for a challenging, but truly rewarding week in the mountains. This lesser known, limited availability program might not be on everyone’s radar, so I asked IMG Senior Guide, Harry Hamlin, to share his thoughts on a few key points. Here is what he had to say:

Experience: This course is a good option for complete beginners and those with some cramponing/ice axe experience. We cover the Mountain Day School in the LTS and the more familiar climbers are with those basics, the stronger they’ll feel during the course and the more they’ll absorb during the more technical cramponing and ice axe training.

Physical Fitness: Good physical fitness is required for this course, just as it is required for any of our courses/climbs. I always tell climbers there are no exceptions to the fact that they need to train. The more climbers can train for their specific program, the more success they’re likely to have.

Content: The Little Tahoma Seminar incorporates our Mountain Day School, Advanced Mountain Day School, basic rock movement, basic steep snow movement, and crevasse rescue (knots, materials, systems, team rescue, self rescue, etc.).

With only 4 spots on each seminar, don’t delay!

Select your dates and sign up!

June 16-21, 2019
July 7-12, 2019

As always, we are available here at IMG HQ Mon-Fri, 8-5 (PST)

office@mountainguides.com or 360-569-2609

Heather Garland

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Chimborazo Summit Makes 3/3!

November 14, 2018

Jumping for joy! (Luke Reilly)

Chimborazo Summit (Luke Reilly)
Descending after a successful summit of Chimborazo (Luke Reilly)

 

A successful ascent of Chimborazo is tougher than in years past but we’re happy to report just that AND success for the entire group. Additionally, lots of our Ecuadorian climbing friends came along. Pretty much couldn’t have been a nicer day. Back down now and heading to Banos. Three for three on a trip which could not have gone better.

Phil Ershler

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Alpine Start & Big Day Ahead On Chimborazo

November 13, 2018

Chimborazo (Luke Reilly)

 

Quick update from our team in Ecuador — part of the team flew home early this morning, leaving a few members with Luke and Romulo ready to attempt Chimborazo. Luke called in this afternoon saying they were already at the high hut, prepping and anxious to take a shot at the summit. It’ll be a very early alpine start and a long summit day. They have a big day ahead. Fingers crossed, as always, for a safe, successful and enjoyable ascent.  We’ll let you know.

Phil Ershler

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Ecuador Update

November 12, 2018

Hoteria La Cienega (Luke Reilly)
Feeding llamas at Hotel San Augustin (Luke Reilly)
Dinner at Hacienda San Cuco (Luke Reilly)

 

Time has come to leave Hacienda La Cienega. Yesterday was a fun day with everyone. We all visited another Hacienda at the base of Cotopaxi called San Augustine de Callo. This hacienda is one of the few archaeological sites with Incan ruins in Ecuador and today is famous for their potato soup.  The group sampled the soup and also took the time to feed the llamas some carrots. Everybody got a meal and was happy when it was time to leave.

A trip to Ecuador isn’t complete without a visit to the famed pilot and photographer, Jorge Anhalzar. Jorge showed us around his home and some of the books that he has published. A few of us picked up a souvenir book to take home and show off to our friends and family.

A couple of the team members are taking off tonight to head home, while the rest of us are sticking around to give Chimborazo a shot. Instead of heading back to the busy life of Quito, we all spent the evening at local guide Romulo Cardenas’ guesthouse about 30 minutes outside of the big city. Romulo’s wife, Patricia, never fails to provide us with a superb meal (including the local favorite of guinea pig). Lots of laughs were shared at dinner last night and we were joined by two other IMG guides, Rikki Dunn and Jay Lyons. You may know these two from Rainier or from other expeditions around the globe. The two are spending a month in Ecuador knocking off some of the classic climbs here. They have already successfully climbed Illiniza Sur and Cotopaxi, way to go guys.

We will be loading the truck up first thing tomorrow morning and heading south to attempt a climb of a mountain whose summit is the farthest point from the center of the earth, and also closest to the sun, Chimborazo. Recent trip reports show that there are reasonable snow conditions on Chimborazo, let’s hope those reports are correct. We’re all buzzing with excitement at the chance of going 3/3 on this expedition.

Luke Reilly

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That’s A Wrap For Ama Dablam

November 12, 2018

Climbers on Ama Dablam above Camp 1 (Nathan Berry)
Phunuru Sherpa with Ama Dablam in the Background (Nathan Berry)

 

Congratulations once again to our 2018 Ama Dablam Team! IMG Guide, Nathan Berry, along with our climbing team returned to KTM and are on their way home now. IMG Guides Phunuru Sherpa and Fura Gyalzen (Sherpa Fura) have packed up camp and will be taking the gear to our storage before heading back home to Phortse.

Sherpa Fura at Camp 1 on Ama Dablam (Nathan Berry)
Camp 3 on Ama Dablam (Nathan Berry)

 

This has been an incredible expedition and we want to thank everyone for your support throughout the season. We are proud of our team. Ready to sign up for Ama Dablam in 2019?

Greg Vernovage

Everest@MountainGuides.com

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Ecuador Team Summits Cotopaxi

November 10, 2018

Was nice to hear about the team’s success on Cayambe a couple of days ago but even nicer to hear of their success Saturday morning on Cotopaxi. Well done, team!! Weather not quite as good for the ascent of Cotopaxi but… good enough. Everyone’s safe, off the mountain and at the Hotel Cienega.

Smiles on the summit (Luke Reilly)
Jumping for joy (Luke Reilly)
Great route conditions (Luke Reilly)
To the hut (Luke Reilly)

Some last sightseeing still needs to be done and some other of our Ecuadorian friends need a visit. For those climbers doing the two peak itinerary, they’ll be home Tuesday telling war stories. For climbers staying to take a shot at Chimborzo, they get a bit of rest/recoup time and then they’ve got one more BIG challenge before getting home on Thurday.

They’re all on a roll. Here’s to their continued success.

Phil Ershler

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Ama Dablam Team Back at Base Camp

November 10, 2018

All is well and the mountain is clean of all of our gear and equipment. Our team is happy and tired at Base Camp. Phunuru also reported that we managed to pull all of our gear down from Camp 1 and Yak Camp.

Steep Climbing on Ama Dablam (Nathan Berry)
Descending Ama Dablam (Nathan Berry)
Ama Dablam from above Base Camp (Adam Clark)

 

Tomorrow, the team will plan to pack up their gear and start making plans to return to Kathmandu.

Congratulations to the IMG Ama Dablam Team!

Greg Vernovage

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Ama Dablam Summits!

November 9, 2018

Narrow climbing on Ama Dablam (Kevin Kayl)

Narrow climbing on Ama Dablam (Kevin Kayl)

Climbers entering the Grey Couloir (Austin Shannon)
Climbers entering the Grey Couloir (Austin Shannon)
Ridge climbing on Ama Dablam (Phunuru Sherpa)
Ridge climbing on Ama Dablam (Phunuru Sherpa)
2018 Ama Dablam Summits (Sherpa Fura)
2018 Ama Dablam Summits (Sherpa Fura)

We received great news from the summit of Ama Dablam last night!  The team got to the summit at 7:35am and were rewarded with a beautiful sunrise and great views from on top.

Congratulations to all of our climbers on Ama Dablam!

They have now descended to Camp 1 and will be at Base Camp for celebration tomorrow.

All is great on Ama Dablam!

Greg Vernovage

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Ecuador Team Sets Their Sights on Cotopaxi

November 9, 2018

Team dinner after a successful climb of Cayambe (Luke Reilly)

Team dinner after a successful climb of Cayambe (Luke Reilly)

Everybody had a great time celebrating a successful ascent of Cayambe with a hardy meal followed by some good sleep.  After soaking in the hot springs of Papallacta, we all made our way to Hacienda Porvenir at the base of Cotopaxi yesterday for even more R and R.  Porvenir recently built a sauna and jacuzzi and the team took full advantage of the new amenities to rejuvenate their muscles and prep for our next climb: Cotopaxi.

It’s been a few years since we’ve climbed Cotopaxi since its most recent eruption and it’s now time to get back to one of the most, if not the most, iconic volcanoes in the world.  Word has it that the route is in superb condition and the team is chomping at the bit to put their crampons back on.

We will drive up to the Jose Rivas Refugio this afternoon after lunch and get in position for our ascent tonight.  The weather is a little shakey this year in Ecuador, but we pulled off a climb of Cayambe and we’re crossing our fingers for clear skies tonight on Cotopaxi.

Stay tuned!

Luke Reilly

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