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Private Winter Seminar – NH

January 11, 2019

Winter Skills Training – NH (Sam Benderhoff)

We just received this email from Ray K (pictured above) after his three day private winter seminar in NH with IMG Guide Sam Benderhoff:

George, 

Sam and I had 3 real good days of work this week! He is an outstanding guide and an asset to your organization! We focused on my footwork, rope drills; ascending & rappelling. Did some ice climbing and hoofed it part way up Mt Washington in pretty deep snow. 

Ray K

Rope Work (Sam Benderhoff)
Private Winter Mountaineering Seminar in NH (Sam Benderhoff)

Nice job, Ray!

George Dunn

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IMG Guide Training in Ouray

January 11, 2019

Guide Training Ouray, CO (Justin Merle)

This past week, I and several IMG guides joined Chief Guide Justin Merle & Mark Ripperger in Ouray, Colorado to hone our ice guiding skills.

We spent Day 1 in the Ouray Ice Park building safe and efficient anchor systems, selecting appropriate instructional terrain, and refining teaching techniques and movement skills in a vertical ice environment. Of course, there was time to improve our personal climbing skills as well! The weather was pleasant, and the ice sticky!

IMG Guide Training on the mixed route ‘Slippery When Wet’ – Ouray Ice Park (Justin Merle)

The second day featured multi-pitch ice guiding techniques in the backcountry. This begins before we even head out the door; gathering weather and avalanche information we use for effective risk management throughout the day. We practiced pacing, anchors, transitions, and travel strategies designed to mitigate risk while maximizing comfort, climbing and fun!

I don’t recall all of the climbs we did, but I do recall Slippery When Wet, the first pitch of Skylight, Unknown Drytool Route, and Slip Sliding Away on day 2 at Camp Bird Mine road.

Come on out and join us in Ouray or New England – there’s plenty of ice for everyone!

IMG Guide Nicole Sims

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Down South!

January 11, 2019

Here’s a quick update for IMG teams down South, farther South, and really far South.

Early morning on Cayambe (Romulo Cardenas)

Jay, Romulo and their successful Ecuador team are now getting prepped for an attempt on Cotopaxi. The mountain was ‘off limits’ for a while because of eruptive activity but things have settled down and are back to normal. The team has been using Hacienda Porvenir as base for the climb. It’s a beautiful spot right at the base of the mountain. Acclimatization and a bit more training today with a summit attempt this weekend. Everyone’s doing well.

Back at the hut (Romulo Cardenas)

Nickel, Martin and their crew should reach Plaza Argentina, base camp, on the Polish Side of Aconcagua today. Simply means that will be the end of the approach and the start of the climb. Mules have been carrying all group gear to this point. Above base, standard expedition style climbing, with making a carry and the next day a move to successively higher camps. Three camps above base on the Polish side. A ‘for sure’ rest day tomorrow at base and then the next phase of the trip begins. Our Argentine outfitters will be taking good care of the team at base, preparing all their meals and giving them a nice dining tent to eat/relax. They just can’t get too comfortable.

And down in the 79 degrees S range, Luke and his team are prepping to move to Camp 1 tomorrow. Vinson only requires two camps and the work of establishing and moving to Camp 1 is great preparation for the big move to Camp 2 (high camp). They got in right on schedule so aren’t in a time crunch and are enjoying an ‘unrushed’ itinerary. Let’s hope weather continues to cooperate and makes the move to Camp 2 relatively easy, too.

That’s it.  Everyone’s doing well, everyone’s reasonably healthy, and all teams are making progress towards their objectives. That’s a good thing.

We’ve included a couple of shots of our Ecuador team’s summit morning on Cayambe. It was a good climb!

Phil Ershler

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Cayambe Summit!

January 9, 2019

Cayambe (Luke Reilly)

Just heard from Jay and Romulo. The team is back at the Hacienda Guachala having lunch. Oh ya, by way of the summit of Cayambe. Congratulations, team. Light snow for several hours this morning but not enough to force the team to turn. Finally broke up high and summit ended up being nice.  Descent was straightforward and after packing up at the hut, they made their way to the Hacienda. After lunch, they’ll drive east to the hot springs of Papallacta. Cold beers and hot water is on the afternoon agenda. What a nice way to end a long, but very successful day.

Phil Ershler

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Climb in Mongolia in 2019

January 9, 2019

High Camp with Mount Khuiten in the background (Ang Jangbu Sherpa)

High Camp with Mount Khuiten in the background (Ang Jangbu Sherpa)

 

We are looking forward to visiting Mongolia’s capital city of Ulaanbaatar and climbing Mount Khuiten and Peak Nairandal in the Altai Mountain Range this summer.  If you are looking for a real adventure with some great climbing, accompanied by camels for the trek, Mongolia is the place for you!  Need more information about Mongolia?  Send Greg Vernovage an email.

Greg Vernovage

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Vinson Teams In the Air

January 9, 2019

Luke’s team aboard the IL76 and ready to fly (Luke Reilly)

Luke’s team aboard the IL76 and ready to fly (Luke Reilly)

 

Down on the Ice, one team is heading in and one team is heading out.  Austin Shannon’s team will be back home day after tomorrow and Luke Reilly and crew will start working their way up Vinson.  Flight was scheduled for today so it’s right on time.  That’s no small accomplishment given the narrow flight perimeters with a 1900 mile flight to Antarctica.  One adventure ends and another begins.

Phil Ershler

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New England Climbing is IN

January 9, 2019

Up on Top! (Craig John)

Up on Top! (Craig John)

 

The new year brought in excellent conditions for our programs in North Conway, NH. IMG Senior Guide, Craig John, reports that “the ice is thick and conditions on Mt. Washington have been excellent”. With short approaches and legendary climbs minutes from town, it’s easy to find winter fun with IMG in New Hampshire!

Andrea and Elana (foreground) ice climbing in New Hampshire (Heather Garland)
Learning to ice climb (Heather Garland)

 

Waterfall ice that is accessible from the roadside offers the perfect training opportunity for beginners, which is exactly what Craig had in mind for Andrea and Elena this past weekend. The two friends flew in from the west coast (California and Washington, respectively) for a taste of New England winter. Their adventures included a summit of Mt. Washington in perfect conditions and a day of roadside waterfall ice climbing. They couldn’t have planned it more perfectly!

Looking up the technical section of the Lion Head Tr on Mt. Washington, NH (Heather Garland)
Heading to the Summit (Craig John)
Heading to the Summit (Craig John)

 

If you’re looking for something more committing, a winter traverse of the Presidential Range is one of the most challenging and demanding mountaineering adventures on the east coast, and also one of the most coveted. The traverse begins on Mt. Madison in the north and moves south to Mt. Pierce along the 20+ mile ridgeline that connects the “Presidentials”. We hit the summit of seven peaks along the way. Average nightly temperatures are below 0° Fahrenheit and winds are often 40mph or more. (Today’s Mt. Washington Observatory Summit Forecast calls for temps of 10°F, 78mph winds, and a windchill of -22°F!)

Sunset over the Presidential Range in NH (Heather Garland)

 

Come on out, the weather is cold and the climbing is spectacular – oh, and those sunsets!

Heather Garland

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Ecuador Team at High Camp on Cayambe

January 8, 2019

Route Finding on Cayambe

Route Finding on Cayambe

 

Jay and Romulo just called in from Ecuador.  Team’s been at high camp all day, with a hike up to the glacier for a bit of training/review.  Weather’s a bit socked in but hoping things settle down this evening so they can take a shot at the summit of Cayambe tomorrow.  Everyone’s healthy and all members are up to the challenge. Just need the weather and the mountain to cooperate a bit so the team can make the attempt.

Fingers crossed.

Phil Ershler

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Aconcagua Team Heading to Penitentes

January 8, 2019

The Team, loaded and ready to go! (Nickel Wood)

The Team, loaded and ready to go! (Nickel Wood)

 

Nickel, Martin and the team shot us a quick text this morning to say they were leaving Mendoza, heading to Penitentes.  More packing this afternoon, this time into ‘mule loads’.  They’ll spend the night at the ski lodge in Penitentes and then the walking starts tomorrow morning.  There’s always a bit of nervous anticipation.  You’ve trained, you’ve prepared and now it time to ‘walk the walk’.  They’re ready to go.

Phil Ershler

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Second Vinson Team Ready to Go

January 8, 2019

IMG Senior Guide Luke Reilly and Team (Luke Reilly)

IMG Senior Guide Luke Reilly and Team (Luke Reilly)

 

IMG Senior Guide, Luke Reilly, is in Punta Arenas, Chile with our second Vinson expedition for this season.  They’ve been shopping, packing, doing gear checks and getting acquainted.  Today’s their briefing with ALE, the flight service.  That’s a fun get together, as the team learns more about all the logistics involved with the flight to 80 degrees S. and they get to meet all the other climbers heading to Vinson for the final trip of the season.

Then, it’s up to mother nature to determine when they fly.  The plane, the IL76, is already loaded and ready.  Maybe the weather’s good tonight, or maybe it’s tomorrow, but everyone’s ready to take advantage of the first opportunity to get down there.

Luke and team will pass Austin and team at the Union Glacier landing site.  Luke and crew will be heading to Vinson while Austin and team will be ready to begin the journey home.  So far, all is good and all is on schedule.

Phil Ershler

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