May 29, 2019

Ed and crew tried to sneak one in and just couldn’t get the break needed. They snuck up to high camp, hoping to get a break which would let them summit while STILL leaving a margin of time and weather to ‘sneak’ back down. Just wasn’t happening and none of the forecasts showed a window within a reasonable amount of days. Tough, but discretion is always the better part of valor, and the team decided yesterday to leave high camp. Cold, windy and snowy just didn’t make for a good summit attempt combination. They likely fly out today.

Like climbing in another world (Jason Edwards)

Andy and crew are heading for 14K. They’re just ticking right along and hoping Alaska is a bit more kind to them when it comes time to move higher.

And, let’s not forget Austin Shannon and team who flew onto the mountain yesterday. They’ve got some ‘hauling’ days ahead on the Kahiltna Glacier but those are actually some of the most important days. Building that foundation of acclimatization is key to success above 14K.

Phil Ershler

May 27, 2019

Ed Leas’ team is sitting at 17,000 feet waiting for a good spell to summit in. They have a good supply of food and fuel and are well fortified, just waiting on a clear day!

Andy Polloczek’s team is at 11,000 feet, waiting to move up to 14,000 as conditions allow. All are well and they carried the bulk of their supplies up to 13,700 on Saturday. They will move to 14, then drop down the next day to pick up their cache.

Austin Shannon’s team is doing their briefing with the NPS today, and as conditions allow, flying onto the mountain as soon as possible. They have gone through their gear checks, review of group supplies and food and will be ready to go.

George Dunn

May 26, 2019

Denali West Buttress Route

Ed Leas and his team made it up to high camp at 17,000 feet on Saturday. They are all dug in and ready to wait out the expected winds and cold weather for the next day or two. The weather is expected to improve starting on Tuesday, and if so, their team will be in place to go for the summit when the weather and conditions look good.

George Dunn

May 25, 2019

Looking out over the Alaska Range (Mike Haft)

Expeditions on Denali are complicated, the accuracy of weather reports can be on point or entirely suspect, and teams often alternate between prepping and plain ‘ol waiting – on a daily basis. IMG Denali guides understand patience, persistence, and being ready to take advantage of opportunities are key and strategize accordingly. As of today, Ed Leas and his team are ready for their move to high camp, Andy Polloczek is not far behind, and Austin Shannon and his crew arrive in Talkeetna tomorrow.

All is well (and busy!) in the land of the midnight sun.

Phil Ershler