June 7, 2019
Guyachung Kang (7952m) and Cho Oyu (8201m) from Pang La at sunrise (Anthony Nightingale)
We still have a few spots available for our Cho Oyu Expedition this Autumn. If you are interested in visiting Tibet, climbing an 8000 meter peak and preparing for Mount Everest, Cho Oyu is a great choice. Join IMG for our 28th expedition to Cho Oyu!
Greg Vernovage
June 6, 2019
High Camp To Denali Pass (Jason Edwards)
Well, Andy Polloczek and Team 2 gave it one ‘heck’ of an effort. Team was turned around yesterday but didn’t bail. They hung in at 17K and took another shot today. Mother nature said an emphatic NO. Increasing wind, precipitation and thunder. Decision was an easy one. Team made quick work of getting to Denali Pass but that was it. You have to be VERY careful about climbing up into a storm. Totally correct call.
Austin and Team 3 are trying to get to 17K today. This is a big push. It’ll be nice to have Team 2 at high camp and ready to offer a hot drink.
Regardless, all is well, albeit without a summit. That said, lots of ways to measure success. 10 fingers and 10 toes probably counts for something.
Phil Ershler
June 5, 2019
We have just received word from our team in La Paz that the Illimani Summit Team has returned and checked into the hotel. Great news and congratulations again to the them! Lead Guide, Roberto Gomez managed to get a summit photo sent off to us on their way back:
The team will get checked into the hotel, get a good shower and then head out for the celebratory dinner before heading home.
It has been a great trip to Bolivia, and we are looking forward to having the same great success during our July Trip happening from July 21 – August 9, 2019!
Greg Vernovage
June 4, 2019
We have just received great news from Bolivia! Our Team of climbers summited Illimani (21,200’). Summit day on Illimani is challenging right from the start at High Camp. The team begins the climb by heading up a narrow ridge before traversing to their first break. After a quick stop for food and water, the team continues towards the headwall. The climb up to the summit ridge is a true test. This is a steep enough climb that the team will most likely use a fixed line, running belays or pitch it out. As the team gains the summit ridge, they also gain the morning sun which is very welcome after climbing through the cool night.
The team is now on their way back to Base Camp where they will spend the night before returning to La Paz.
Greg Vernovage
June 4, 2019
Andy and team are still playing a bit of a waiting game up at 17K. Weather is the issue which decides when they take a shot at the summit. Been too windy to make a safe summit attempt. They’ve still got time, so trying now to time things ‘just right’. They’re dug in with supplies to wait long, and they’re feeling well. Come on, weather!
The slope from 14K to 16K (Jason Edwards)
Austin and crew are in a good position at 14K. They’ve picked up their cache at 13.5K and will now make a carry up onto the Buttress as soon as they can. They too are watching the weather carefully. Preference for them would be to get their carry done and then sit at 14K until ‘signs say yes’ and then head for the summit right away. Lots of food and fuel at 14K so they’re being patient and will be ready to move when the mountain says move.
Phil Ershler
June 3, 2019
Great news from the Team on Illimani overnight. Base Camp on Illimani is one of the best camp sites in the world! The team sleeps near a small stream in the meadows of the lower mountain. At night, the moon rises above Illimani and the view of the lights in El Alto and La Paz are amazing.
This morning, the team packed up camp and they are heading to High Camp. The route to High Camp begins with a trek up and over the first ridge to more technical terrain. At the lunch stop ledge, the team kicks back the pace and slowly works their way up the ridge to High Camp (17,875ft). This is a small camp that fits 4-5 tents. The team will have the afternoon at High Camp before eating an early dinner and heading to bed. It will be an early night for the team so they can wake up and start heading for the summit!
Greg Vernovage
June 2, 2019
HIking to Illimani Base Camp (Adam Clark)
The first part of the Bolivia trip to the Condoriri area and Huayna Potosi has wrapped up, and some of the climbers are now heading for home. Well done, team! For the remaining climbers, after their hard work of getting well acclimatized and a couple rest days in La Paz, now it’s time to go take advantage of it and climb something higher, like 21,200’ Illimani! The goal for today is Base Camp, situated at about 15,750’ in a nice meadow at the base of the mountain. So far so good!
Eric Simonson
June 1, 2019
Quick weekend ‘strategy’ update: Andy and crew sat today after having already made their carry high. Plan is to move to high camp tomorrow. Weather is calling for a transition day tomorrow with mostly dry weather Monday and Tuesday with winds less than 30 knots up high. Sunday seems like the day to make their move up high and get established at high camp.
Ridge of the West Buttress going up to high camp (Jason Edwards)
Meanwhile, Austin and team are making their move to 14K today. They’ll need to pick up their cache at 13,500’, but we’ll have to see exactly when they do that. This is where the ‘art’ of guiding comes in. Weather, acclimatization, team strength, weather, motivation –- they all play a role in the decision-making. We’ll just have to see how things unfold for Team 3.
Regardless, all is fine on the mountain. The guides will get a kick out of being together, at least for the night.
Phil Ershler
May 31, 2019
Andy’s team is at 14K and ready to move to high camp once they have a favorable forecast. Meanwhile, Austin is at 11K and may well ‘catch’ Andy at 14K. We always try to be prepared to move lower on the mountain in marginal weather and then try to be patient (and smart) and pick a good weather window for a summit attempt. Forecast currently calls for snow and cold temperatures up high through Sunday.
Denali is a challenging expedition!!
Phil Ershler
May 31, 2019
Sunny summit morning on the Ingraham Direct (Jay Lyons)
After weeks of unstable weather, the summit rotations have returned with three teams to the top in the last three days! IMG Lead Guides, Jay Lyons & Mike Haft, have given us back to back summits on the Ingraham Direct while Conrad Wharton took the first Kautz team of the season up through the ice chute to the summit and down the ID.
An excellent effort by all in favorable weather and conditions!
All is well on Rainier!
Heather Garland
