IMG Rainier Kautz Summit Climbs Itinerary
For the Kautz 5½ day program you are responsible for two nights of lodging in Ashford, after the ½ day on Day One and after skills training on Day Two. See specific, available dates.
Kautz 5½ Day Climb Itinerary
This itinerary is approximate and subject to change due to conditions.
Day 1 — Your orientation begins at 2 pm at IMG Headquarters in Ashford, WA on Day 1. Your lead guide will take you through a gear check and training session. If you need to rent any gear, it can be taken care of during this portion of the program, no need to reserve in advance. Your lead guide can help make decisions about your gear and will ensure each team member has everything needed for the climb without carrying unnecessary weight. During the training session, you will cover Leave No Trace Principles, the Mission of the National Park Service, crampon adjustment, and packing up together. Day 1 will wrap up by 6 pm and the team will be free for the evening. Note that lodging is not provided for the night of Day 1.
Day 2 — Day 2 will start at 8 am at IMG HQ in Ashford for a day of training on the lower Nisqually Glacier. Please arrive having eaten breakfast and mountain ready — packed up and dressed for a full day of learning and practice. Load up in the IMG van for a 45-minute drive to the beautiful and historic Paradise area on the south side of Mt Rainier. Spend the day learning and practicing the snow skills you'll need for a safe and successful climb of the Kautz Glacier route, tailored to current route conditions. Topics include ascending and descending steep snow and ice, following multi-pitch belayed ice climbs, anchor construction and management, rappelling and lowering, and use of technical ice tools. Expect to return to Ashford by 4 pm. Note that dinner and lodging are not provided for the night of Day 2.
Day 3 — After splitting group gear and packing up, depart Ashford in the IMG van early on the morning of Day 3 to return to Paradise and the lower Nisqually Glacier. Traversing across the lower Nisqually, you'll arrive at the base of the Wilson Chute and climb to the Wilson Glacier and Bench. Continuing along the Wilson Glacier, the remote feel of this climb comes into focus as you look back across the Nisqually to the crowds you left behind at Paradise. After a long day, you'll make camp at The Castle and enjoy dinner and a spectacular sunset.
Day 4 — Day 4 begins with breakfast and packing up camp. Departing for the Turtle Snowfield, our aim is to establish ourselves at Camp Hazard. A shorter day is in order to prepare ourselves for our summit push. An early dinner and early to bed will set us up for success and an alpine start the following morning.
Day 5 — Awakening in the dark, we'll eat breakfast and head towards the summit on Day 5. Descending the Rock Step puts us in position to begin climbing the Kautz Ice Chute at sunrise, the centerpiece of this climb. Fun and challenging climbing leads us to the upper Kautz Glacier where we wind and weave up the crevassed terrain to top out on the summit. Snap some summit photos and enjoy the views before we descend back to Camp Hazard.
Day 6 — After a restful night's sleep breakfast is served and we begin to pack up camp on the morning of Day 6. Descending our ascent route, we retrace our steps down the Wilson Glacier and Chute, across the Nisqually, and back to the lush meadows of Paradise until we arrive at our waiting van for the drive back to Ashford. Here you can return rentals, make retail purchases, and share in a closing ceremony with your guides.