McKinley West Buttress Expedition
Whether you call it Denali or McKinley, it’s the tallest mountain in North America and one of the most coveted of the fabled Seven Summits. In 2026, IMG Denali, LLC (IMGD) will conduct five scheduled expeditions via the West Buttress Route. If a custom expedition would better suit your needs, we offer custom programs for private teams of one or more climbers. Please reach out to us directly for further details.
Our leaders were among the first to guide on McKinley over four decades ago. Today, our guides continue the IMG legacy and culture of respect for the mountain, climber safety, and great customer service. Unlike many of our competitors, IMGD conducts McKinley expeditions at a stronger guide ratio of 1 guide per 2 climbers with a maximum of 8 climbers led by 4 guides. This 2:1 ratio provides our teams with significantly higher levels of experience, flexibility and customer support.
We provide personal consultation throughout the planning stages of your expedition. IMGD was created with the philosophy that a personal touch and attention to detail is integral to any successful expedition and especially one as challenging as McKinley.
The Climb
McKinley is one of the most physically demanding climbs in the world. On McKinley there are no porters, yaks or donkeys to help carry our loads. As an IMGD team member, you will carry all personal equipment and your share of the group gear, food, and fuel. Climbers generally begin the expedition with about 120 pounds per person split between your sled and your backpack. To manage that weight, climbers must be in excellent physical condition. There is no easy way “off” the expedition once it begins. The Park Service only allows helicopter rescues for truly life-threating emergencies. Once we head up, we are committed. Be prepared for the tough conditions ahead. We recommend that climbers participate in an Expedition Prep Seminar to better anticipate and appreciate the demands and equipment necessary for their McKinley journey
The Guides
IMGD guides are chosen for their demonstrated skills and experience from within the ranks of the IMG guides leading Rainier, Himalayan, Vinson, South American, and other IMG programs. Climbing with these guides on McKinley allows you to access the full spectrum of their experience worldwide. Together you will begin to build the bonds of climbers or continue relationships already forged with them on previous IMG programs. Either way, you will join a tightly knit community of top-notch mountaineering professionals who see each other as family both on and off the mountain and strive for excellence together. Our cohesive guide culture is one hallmark of every IMG Denali expedition.
International Mountain Guides, LLC provides booking services for IMG Denali, LLC, an authorized concessioner of Denali National Park and Preserve.