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2019 Putha Hiunchuli Team Out The Door!

September 18, 2019

2019 Putha Hiunchuli Team (Ang Jangbu Sherpa)

The 2019 Putha Hiunchuli Team departed Kathmandu for Nepalgunj after a slight delay. The Team has checked into the hotel and will be ready to fly in the morning to Juphal (8,103’/2470m) where they will begin their trek to Dunai (7,020’/2140m). The common theme for the Putha Hiunchuli Team is going to be patience and flexibility. We have been keeping our eye on the weather and note the monsoon has not retreated yet. We will move as the weather permits!

Putha Hiunchuli Team is on the move!

Greg Vernovgage

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Cho Oyu Team Holding At Camp 1

September 18, 2019

Descending from near Camp 1.5 (Dallas Glass)
Descending the fixed lines to Camp 1 (Dallas Glass)

The Team is holding tight at Camp 1 on Cho Oyu to continue acclimatizing. Phunuru checked in to let us know that it was snowing at Camp 1 most of the day. The team will sleep another night at Camp 1 and evaluate conditions in the morning. They will most likely pack up and head back down to ABC for some well-deserved rest. The team is feeling great and the Sherpa are working hard. Our main objective is finding the right windows to move during the breaks in the weather. The Cho Oyu Team is on schedule and is staying patient!

All is well on Cho Oyu!

Greg Vernovage

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Book Your 2020 ‘Denali Prep Seminar On Mt. Rainier’ Today!

September 15, 2019

Digging for shelter (Emily Johnston)

With only six Denali Prep Seminars available each year, the time to sign up for 2020 is now! This is the ideal program for anyone aspiring to climb Denali or any other large, glaciated, technical peak in Alaska. Mt. Rainier in winter is the perfect place to immerse yourself in a harsh, big mountain environment. Led by IMG’s world-renowned guides, each team progresses up the mountain using snowshoes and sleds, establishing expedition camps along the way to Camp Muir at 10,000′. The chance of summiting Mt. Rainier during the winter months is low, but when appropriate, an attempt can provide invaluable experience in avalanche hazard evaluation and route finding.

Seminar Topics Include:

Expedition gear and its use
Basic skills with ice axe and crampons
Expedition camp building and maintenance
Construction of snow caves and snow shelters
Ascending and descending fixed ropes
Building snow anchors and anchor systems
Expedition glacier travel and route finding
Crevasse rescue
High altitude medicine and prevention of cold weather injuries
Avalanche hazard evaluation

IMG Guides are experts in whiteout navigation (Rowan Stewart)

Denali Prep Seminar Available Dates:

February 8-14, 2020
February 22-28, 2020
March 7-13, 2020
March 21-27, 2020
April 4-10, 2020
April 18-24, 2020

Ice axe self-arrest training on a Denali Prep Seminar (Leanne Sebren)

All seminars are conducted with a 2:1 client-to-guide ratio, providing a superior level of support and safety. IMG provides breakfasts, dinners, and hot drinks for the group on the mountain. As part of the program, we provide bunk space for the night after your gear check in Ashford and a continental breakfast the next morning. We find this genuinely adds to the experience in terms of convenience, comfort, and camaraderie!

Email office@mountainguides.com or call 360-569-2609 for more information!

Heather Garland

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Cho Oyu Team at Lake Camp

September 15, 2019

Right on schedule, the Cho Oyu Team pulled out of ABC for Lake Camp. The team made great time for their first move making it to Lake Camp in about three and a half hours. Our Sherpa Team continued to Camp 1 before dropping back down to ABC for the night. Tomorrow, the team will continue up to Camp 1 at 21,000’ (6400m) and spend a couple more nights acclimatizing.

2019 Cho Oyu Team departing ABC (Kaji Sherpa)
2019 Cho Oyu Team departing ABC (Kaji Sherpa)
IMG ABC and Nangpa La (Kaji Sherpa)
IMG ABC and Nangpa La (Kaji Sherpa)

 

More good weather is in the forecast and we are looking forward hearing from Camp 1 and also from the fixing Sherpa in the coming days.

All is well on Cho Oyu!

Greg Vernovage

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Denali 2020!

September 14, 2019

Blue skies over Alaska (Mike Haft)

Interested in climbing Denali? Come climb ‘The Great One’ with IMG Denali in 2020!

Why climb Denali with IMG Denali?  IMG’s guides are the best in the industry. They have decades of experience that translates into keeping you safe and giving you the best chances of summiting. If you have climbed with IMG, reach out to your guide or the IMG office to plan your next expedition.

In the clouds on Denali (Greg Vernovage)

Climbing big mountains is not all summit photos and epic views on exposed ridgelines. More often it’s a mix of long approach days and gear shuffling. But it is all worth it when you do get those clear, cold days! Our veteran guide, Mike Haft, snapped the photo below while looking down on 14 Camp on Denali’s West Buttress.

The view of 14 Camp (Mike Haft)

If you still feel like you need more experience in harsh winter conditions in preparation for a Denali climb, get in touch!  The IMG Denali Prep Seminars on Mount Rainier are one of the best ways to dial in your systems and test your gear.

Taking an IMG Denali Prep Seminar teaches you essential sled-rigging skills required on a Denali Expedition (Greg Vernovage)

The Wrangell-St. Elias range is home to some of the best alpine climbing, but is rarely climbed due to the lure of the Alaska Range, home of Denali.  If you are looking to gain “Alaska” style expedition climbing experience, but not ready to climb Denali, IMG’s High Alaskan Ascent program is a phenomenal option.

Cold weather mountaineering in Alaska (Peter Adams)

Email: office@mountainguides.com for information on all of IMG’s Alaska programs!

Peter Adams

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Cho Oyu Team heading uphill

September 14, 2019

Beautiful day at ABC (Dallas Glass)
Moonrise over Cho Oyu from Camp 1 (Dallas Glass)

IMG Senior Guide, Phunuru Sherpa, checked in to let us know the team is ready to head uphill on their first rotation tomorrow morning.  The plan is for the team to leave ABC after breakfast and head to Lake Camp.  Lake Camp is at the base of the steep hill heading to Camp 1.  This is a great way to break up the long trek to Camp 1 (21,000’/6400m) on the first rotation.

Today the team did some training at ABC and finished packing food and gear for the rotation. Our Sherpa Team had a rope fixing meeting and have made a plan to have 6 Sherpa head up to Camp 1 tomorrow and continue fixing to Camp 2 and 3.  Weather dependent, they hope to get to Camp 3 on the 18th and then fix to the summit on the 20th-23rd when the weather looks good.

All is well on Cho Oyu!

Greg Vernovage

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Puja Day On Cho Oyu

September 13, 2019

Chhewang Lendu making an offer at the Puja (Phunuru Sherpa)
Puja at Cho Oyu ABC (Phunuru Sherpa)
2019 Cho Oyu Team at the Puja (Phunuru Sherpa)

Today was Puja Day on Cho Oyu.  Phunuru called early this morning to let us know the Puja Day was a lot of fun and the team enjoyed being together for this auspicious day.  The team had light snow for the entire day but it is melting so no accumulation.  A Lama from Tingri came up to ABC to join the team and ask the mountain for safe passage this season.

After the Puja, the team enjoyed another great lunch by Head Chef Kaji and then packed food and gear for the first rotation up the mountain.  Tomorrow, the Sherpa will make a carry to Camp 1 while the rest of the team train at ABC and prepare for the rotation.

All is well on Cho Oyu!

Greg Vernovage

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Active Rest Day on Cho Oyu

September 12, 2019

Trekking towards Camp 1 on Cho Oyu (Phunuru Sherpa)
Nangpa La from ABC (Dallas Glass)
Cho Oyu at Sunrise from ABC (Dallas Glass)

The Cho Oyu Team took the day getting settled in at ABC and going for a short hike to stretch their legs up towards Camp 1. An active rest day is good for the team. Getting out and doing some trekking is a good way to get their heart rates up a bit and work on more acclimatization. The team can get a good view of the route on Cho Oyu and Nangpa La which is one of the oldest trade routes connecting Tibet to Nepal where local people made the pilgrimage to Namche for trading.

The Fixing Sherpa returned to ABC after fixing more of the ropes on the route to Camp 2. Tomorrow is going to be a busy day with the Puja and training for the team before making plans to head up to Camp 1 for their first rotation. There is a little snow in the forecast for tonight but that should not slow down the progress and plan for climbing over the next week.

All is well on Cho Oyu

Greg Vernovage

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Cho Oyu Team Arrives At ABC

September 11, 209

2019 Cho Oyu Team trekking into ABC (Phunuru Sherpa)
ABC on Cho Oyu (Phunuru Sherpa)
Looking up the route to Camp 1 from ABC (Phunuru Sherpa)

Phunuru called to let us know the team had a great day trekking to ABC on Cho Oyu.  He also wanted to let us know that the 6 Sherpa who went up to Camp 1 had a great day and have now fixed to the top of the ice cliff.

The plan for tomorrow is to take a short hike up the glacier towards Camp 1 for the team. The Sherpa Team will work on fixing the route to Camp 2 before descending to ABC.  September 13th is Puja Day!

All is well on Cho Oyu!

Greg Vernovage

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Cho Oyu Team in Gyaplung

September 10, 2019

IMG Senior Guide Phunuru Sherpa checked in from Gyaplung (Intermediate Camp) at 17,716’/5,400m. The team had a great day trekking to Intermediate Camp with perfect weather.

PK Sherpa unloading gear at Gyaplung (Phunuru Sherpa)
PK Sherpa unloading gear at Gyaplung (Phunuru Sherpa)
Gyaplung (Intermediate Camp) with Cho Oyu (Phunuru Sherpa)
Gyaplung (Intermediate Camp) with Cho Oyu (Phunuru Sherpa)

Tomorrow, the team will head up to ABC and get settled in. PK and Mingma Sherpa came down to meet the team and trek up to ABC. Chhewang and Pasang are at ABC (18,700’/5,700m) and planning on heading up to Camp 1 (21,000’/6400m) with Sherpa from other teams to start fixing the route to Camp 2.

All is well on Cho Oyu!

Greg Vernovage

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