Kilimanjaro climbers reach Shira Camp

July 11, 2024

The whole team at Shira Camp (Ang Jangbu)

On the way to Shira Camp (Ang Jangbu)

Ang Jangbu reports that the weather was great today for the team to continue climbing to the Shira Camp, located on the edge of the Shira Plateau. After leaving the forest at Machame Camp they ascended through a “forest” of giant heather bushes, and along the way got their first views of the Lobelia and Giant Groundsel plants that only live at altitude near the equator. Now they are at about 12,500 feet, a perfect elevation for acclimatizing. Tomorrow the plan is to go to Barranco Camp. Well done team!

50 Years On Denali

July 10, 1974

Eric on Denali 7-10-74 (Pat Lathrop)

Fifty years ago today I made my first ascent of Denali, the culmination of a successful 41 day “Denali Traverse 1974” expedition. I was 19 years old with over 20 Rainier ascents and one season as an RMI guide under my belt, but was already very experienced at suffering. We started in early June from Kantishna on the north side of the Alaska Range, where legendary bush pilot Don Sheldon dropped us off. It was a total epic, crossing the tundra, carrying loads up the Muldrow Glacier, an attempt at the Taylor Spur approach to Pioneer Ridge, climbing the Karstens Ridge instead, a vicious multi day storm up on the Harper Glacier that caused most of our food and fuel to be avalanched away, and finally a 5 day long storm spent in a snow cave at Denali Pass with 2 days of food. When we reached the top I was completely out of food except for a fist size chunk of frozen Velveeta cheese, with the descent to Kahiltna Base Camp still to contend with. I remember we got buzzed on the summit by two F4 Phantom jets, pilots waving flying upside down, a hundred feet over our heads, At 17 camp we dug up Ray Genet’s old snow cave and found some ramen noodles. The entire expedition we were alone on the mountain until we got to Kahiltna Base Camp and met a Polish team that gave us some food. I lost 25 pounds, it was a great trip! Thanks to my fellow Tacoma area climbers Larry Heggerness (leader), Jerry Hasfjord, Carl Fabiani, Tim Gage, and high school buddies Mike Reed and Pat Lathrop. It’s amazing to remember what it was like to be young and strong and immortal, unwilling to take no for an answer.

Eric Simonson

Kili climbers are on the way

July 10, 2024

uly Kili team at Machame Camp (Ang Jangbu)

Kili climbers in the forest on the way to Machame Camp (Phunuru Sherpa)

Kili climbers loading up for the Machame Gate trailhead (Ang Jangbu)

Ang Jangbu reports the team made a clean getaway this morning, heading for the Machame Gate and the trailhead. Upon arriving at the Gate, they did the mandatory permit checks with the Park Rangers. Loads were distributed to the Chagga porter team and it was time to hit the trail for the hike up through the forest zone to the Machame Camp. It took the team about 6 hours (including breaks) of forest hiking to reach the camp, located near the treeline at a little below 10,000 feet elevation. So far so good!

It’s Kilimanjaro time again!

July 9, 2024

The July Kilimanjaro team is ready to climb (Ang Jangbu)

We are happy to announce that our fourth Kili trip of 2024 is now starting, led by IMG senior leader Ang Jangbu Sherpa. Ang Jangbu reports from Tanzania that the whole team arrived on schedule yesterday and today they did their gear checks, secured any missing items, and got the duffel bags weighed and ready for the trailhead (the porter load limits are strictly enforced by the National Park). The plan is to depart at 8AM tomorrow morning for the Machame Gate. All’s well in Africa!

IMG – 4 Routes 4 Summits 4 Days on Mount Rainier

July 6th, 2024

: The IMG Emmons team celebrates on top (Timm Phillips)

: The view from the Eagles Nest on the Fuhrer Finger route (Justin Sackett)

: The 3.5 Day Summit Climb team on top (Max Bond)

: The IMG Kautz team on the upper Kautz Glacier (Porter McMichael)

IMG summited the holiday weekend with 4 summits on 4 different routes: Emmons Glacier Climb – Fuhrer Finger Climb – Kautz Glacier Climb – 3.5 Day Summit Climb

What a great finish of the Forth of July Holiday Weekend! Thanks to our highly experienced guides, and adventuresome clients!

Kilimanjaro Summits!

June 24th, 2024

: Uhuru Peak at Dawn (Phunuru)

: Looking across the summit crater (Phunuru)

: Kili Shadow from the summit with Mt. Meru to the west (Phunuru)

Phunuru reports the team had a gorgeous climb to Uhuru Peak, the 19,340 ft tippy top of Kilimanjaro. They started from the 15,000 ft Barafu Camp at about midnight and reached the summit at dawn. After a rapid descent to Barafu, they had time for a nice rest and meal before continuing down to Mweka Camp at the treeline, about 11,000 ft. Everyone stayed strong and they arrived by 3pm. Tomorrow, they will head down through the forest to the Mweka Gate and the waiting vehicles for the ride back to Moshi. Well done team, and congratulations to Phunuru for his 25th Kili ascent!

Kili climbers reach Karanga Camp

June 22nd, 2024

: The entire team near Karanga Camp (Phunuru)

: Looking up from Karanga (Phunuru)

Phunuru reports that the team had another spectacular day with perfect weather. They left Barranco early to get up the Barranco Wall ahead of other groups, as this is the steepest section of the trek. The team was rewarded with great views of the Southern Glaciers as they traversed to Karanga Camp (about 13,000 ft), arriving in time for lunch. They had a nice rest this afternoon and everyone is doing well. Tomorrow, they will move to Barafu Camp (15,000 ft), positioning themselves for the summit bid!

Great day on Kilimanjaro

June 21, 2024

IMG Team at lava Tower (Phunuru)

Barranco Camp with the Breach Wall and Icicle above (Eric Simonson)

Porters approaching the Barranco Camp with the giant groundsel plants (Eric Simonson)

After yesterdays rainstorm, the weather cleared and today was gorgeous for the team. The old adage for acclimatization is “climb high, sleep low” and the team’s hike today fits that bill perfectly, climbing to a high point at Lava Tower (4600m/15000ft) before descending back to 13000 ft at the Barranco Camp. From the Barranco Camp the team has a great view of the Breach Wall and Icicle, and their first objective tomorrow, the steep climb out of the Barranco camp as they continue their trek to the Karanga Camp.

Rainier & Baker Summits!

June 20, 2024

Sunset on Mt. Baker (photo: Charles Peterson)

It’s full on climbing season down here in the Cascades and summer weather is finally come to fruition. Here’s a recap of this week’s summits!

June 18 – Mt. Baker via the North Ridge led by Justin Sackett

June 19 – Mt. Baker via the Coleman-Deming led by Tyler Nachand

June 20 – Mt. Rainier via the Kautz Glacier led by Stu Johnson

We also currently have a DC team in the field and teams leaving for the DC, the Emmons Glacier, the Fuhrer Finger, and Mt. Baker in the next day.

Good job teams!!

Rainy day on Kili!

June 19, 2024

Machame Camp (Phunuru Sherpa)

Wet day at Machame Camp (Phunuru Sherpa)

Phunuru called to say that the team were safe and sound up at Machame Camp (nearly 10K, at treeline) after a good dinner and under clearing skies. Earlier today was quite wet for their trip up from Moshi, through the forest. It was a good reminder for why we take the time to do the gear checks before starting, so we have the right gear to stay comfortable and have fun, even in challenging weather. Everyone is in good spirits and looking forward to a good sleep tonight.