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Aconcagua Update

January 22, 2020

Heading home (Harry Hamlin)

Guides Nickel Wood, Martin Villegas, and Harry Hamlin are sending their 9 Aconcagua summiters home today.  Congratulations one more time and thanks from IMG to each one of them for having joined us, and summiting with us, on Aconcagua.  Everyone, guides and climbers, should be justly proud.

Guide, Rikki Dunn, flies out tomorrow to join Martin on another IMG Aconcagua expedition.  No rest for the wicked, huh Martin?  He’s always raring to go.  And our last departure for the season will be on their way about a week from now.  And for those who didn’t join us this season, the 2020/21 season will be here before you know it.  A year’s lead time is about right for Aconcagua.  Brush up on any rusty mountaineering technique, start putting that ‘kit’ together and, most important, keep up with your training regimen.  Nothing takes the place of being in the best shape of your life when tackling the Stone Sentinel.

Phil Ershler

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Vinson Team Back At Union Glacier

January 21, 2020

Vinson from the air (Phil Ershler)

Some good news to report this morning from Antarctica – the planes are in the air. Weather has cleared and our team should have already made the flight over to Union Glacier from Vinson Base Camp. We also heard that the IL 76 is ‘in the air’, meaning everyone should be back in South American late tonight. I know the team is excited to get home and share some pretty amazing stories of their expedition with family and friends.

Phil Ershler

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Aconcagua Team 100% Summit!

January 19, 2020

Just spoke with Nickel on the sat phone: 100% on the summit, and everyone is now down in high camp. VERY good news. Nickel said it was a bit foggy, a bit snowy and super windy — that works just fine.

View from the summit of Aconcagua (Jonathan Farnsworth)

View from the summit of Aconcagua on a clear day (Jonathan Farnsworth)

 

Stay tuned for summit photos from the team soon. One more day, and members will be down in Plaza Mulas with tennis shoes on, eating pizza. We’re just not going to do a whole lot better than that.

Phil Ershler

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Ecuador Team Setting Sights on Chimborazo

January 19, 2020

Jay called me last evening after the team’s attempt on Cotopaxi. No summit. Weather wasn’t good when they woke up, so they delayed departure for a bit. Still wasn’t great, but they finally decided to take a shot. 17,500’, more or less, and they were just too wet with no real hope in sight. Discretion being the better part of valor, they made a u-turn and came down. Some members will head home now while others will stay and attempt Chimborazo.

Chimborazo (Luke Reilly)

Chimborazo (Luke Reilly)

I’m hoping the weather allows another solid attempt and that the climbers can stay strong for one more summit. Let’s see, and we’ll wish them luck.

Phil Ershler

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Aconcagua Team Climbing; Vinson Team Heading for Home

January 19, 2020

IMG’s Aconcagua team is climbing now. All were doing well when I spoke with Nickel yesterday from high camp. Three guides are with them, so we’re hoping for the best. He was expecting all members to take a shot at the summit, but we don’t know until we know. When we get definitive news, we’ll let you know.

Upper Aconcagua (Phil Ershler)
Upper Aconcagua (Phil Ershler)
IMG Climbers on Upper Aconcagua
IMG Climbers on Upper Aconcagua

The Vinson team is doing well in Antarctica. Jonathan Schrock let us know last night that the big descent from high camp to base camp was completed yesterday without issue. As soon as weather permits, they’ll fly to Union Glacier and then start winging their way home.

The Vinson team is hoping to be on the big IL 76 soon (Phil Ershler)

The Vinson team is hoping to be on the big IL 76 soon (Phil Ershler)

The team is where they should be after summiting, and everyone is happy and healthy.

Phil Ershler

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Successful Ascent Mt. Vinson

January 17, 2020

Final Steps To The Top

Always nice to report that we have received news of another successful Vinson ascent.  All members are on the summit and descending now.  No details other than all is well, and that they are on their way down. Exactly what we wanted to hear.

They’ll need one more full climbing day before they will be able to relax.  High camp down to Vinson base camp is a full day, demanding everyone’s attention; then we can start calling things a true success!  It ain’t over till it’s over but this news is a pretty good start.

Congratulations to Jonathan and the team!

Phil Ershler

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REI’s ‘Prep for Mount Rainier’ w/IMG, Spring 2020

January 16, 2020

Ladder crossing a crevasse on Rainier (Keith Rumburg)

Join IMG this spring for our annual ‘Prep for Mount Rainier’ classes at REI!

Each year IMG & REI team up to help guided and independent climbers prepare for Rainier. The classes are held at local REI’s throughout western Washington and hosted by IMG guides.

 

Date: Time: Location: Guides:
5-Feb 6:30pm-8:00pm Tacoma REI Jason Edwards
11-Feb 6:00pm-7:30pm Alderwood REI Patrick Mauro
13-Feb 6:30pm-8:00pm Issaquah REI Harry Hamlin
25-Feb 6:30pm-8:00pm Seattle REI           Dallas Glass & Lara Ralich
4-Mar* 5:30pm-7:00pm Southcenter REI (Odin Brewing) Patrick Mauro
10-Mar 6:00pm-7:30pm Bellevue REI Jay Lyons
26-Mar 6:30pm-8:00pm Seattle REI Lara Ralich & Patrick Mauro
6-Apr* 6:30pm-8:00pm Seattle REI (Women’s Class) Lara Ralich

 

Note on March 4: this session is not at REI Southcenter, but at Odin Brewing Company in Tukwila, just around the corner from the store at 402 Baker Blvd.

Note on April 6: this session is a women’s prep class only

Space is limited – sign up early through the links above!

 

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Cayambe Summits!

January 16, 2020

Cayambe summits!

Congrats to Jay, Romulo, and the team for a successful summit of (18,996′) Cayambe! Next up: hot springs and a hotel before driving to Hacienda El Porvenir at the base of Cotopaxi. Nice work so far!

The Ecuador volcanoes are an excellent follow up to Rainier and a fantastic way to prepare for Aconcagua!

Phil Ershler

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Ouray Update

January 15, 2020

Ice tunnel in Ouray (Andy Polloczek)
IMG climber on Whorehouse Hoses – Ouray, Colorado (Andy Polloczek)
Ouray will make you feel that way! (Andy Polloczek)

Things are going about as well as they could be in the Ouray Ice Park this winter. Here are some photos Justin Merle & Andy Polloczek sent in from a recent climb with a private group. These photos were taken in Silverton, where the party went to climb ‘Whorehouse Hoses’. The weird looking tunnel they walked thru was actually an old avalanche of ice from spring of 2019 that built up a lot of debris and lasted through the summer. A creek melted this tunnel through the ice and then stopped running this winter so they could use it as an easy access route!

If you haven’t already signed up for your Ouray adventure with IMG, now is the perfect time!

George Dunn

 

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Update From The Southern Hemisphere

January 15, 2020

Mt. Shinn from near Vinson high camp – Phil Ershler
Trail is up on Aconcagua – Phil Ershler
Cayambe – Romulo Cardenas

Update time from the Southern Hemisphere, as everyone is in position to make some significant movement today. Antarctica is first – team is doing well.  It’s just fun when you have a strong, competent team. Jonathan called in yesterday that weather is looking good for a move to high camp today. Can’t confirm yet that they’re in camp but feel pretty good about that possibility.  Remember, Vinson time is Chile time, meaning they’re 5 hours later than Seattle AND the hours when they actually move on the climb differ day to day, depending on their location. It’s light 24 hours a day but the sun hides behind the different mountains at different times and no one wants to be climbing in the shade. It’s cold. Right now, their climbing hours are later in the day. Maybe we’ll get a call from Jonathan late today. Regardless, no issues so far.

Aconcagua – Nickel reports team hanging in and doing well. It’s getting tougher on Aconcagua as they’re getting higher. The team had a good carry to C2, over 18,000’ and may well be making their move to this new camp today. Big landmark for them.

We also have a report from Jay down in Ecuador. The team spent yesterday at the Cayambe hut doing a little training/review and a lot of acclimatizing. Weather looked fairly solid when they reported in yesterday so the plan was to climb today. Won’t likely be able to post news of their success until tomorrow but remember – no news is good news. Any way you cut it, 19,000’ is high so they have their work cut out for them. Wishing everyone the best.

Phil Ershler

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