January 16, 2020
Cayambe summits!
Congrats to Jay, Romulo, and the team for a successful summit of (18,996′) Cayambe! Next up: hot springs and a hotel before driving to Hacienda El Porvenir at the base of Cotopaxi. Nice work so far!
The Ecuador volcanoes are an excellent follow up to Rainier and a fantastic way to prepare for Aconcagua!
Phil Ershler
January 15, 2020
Things are going about as well as they could be in the Ouray Ice Park this winter. Here are some photos Justin Merle & Andy Polloczek sent in from a recent climb with a private group. These photos were taken in Silverton, where the party went to climb ‘Whorehouse Hoses’. The weird looking tunnel they walked thru was actually an old avalanche of ice from spring of 2019 that built up a lot of debris and lasted through the summer. A creek melted this tunnel through the ice and then stopped running this winter so they could use it as an easy access route!
If you haven’t already signed up for your Ouray adventure with IMG, now is the perfect time!
George Dunn
January 15, 2020
Update time from the Southern Hemisphere, as everyone is in position to make some significant movement today. Antarctica is first – team is doing well. It’s just fun when you have a strong, competent team. Jonathan called in yesterday that weather is looking good for a move to high camp today. Can’t confirm yet that they’re in camp but feel pretty good about that possibility. Remember, Vinson time is Chile time, meaning they’re 5 hours later than Seattle AND the hours when they actually move on the climb differ day to day, depending on their location. It’s light 24 hours a day but the sun hides behind the different mountains at different times and no one wants to be climbing in the shade. It’s cold. Right now, their climbing hours are later in the day. Maybe we’ll get a call from Jonathan late today. Regardless, no issues so far.
Aconcagua – Nickel reports team hanging in and doing well. It’s getting tougher on Aconcagua as they’re getting higher. The team had a good carry to C2, over 18,000’ and may well be making their move to this new camp today. Big landmark for them.
We also have a report from Jay down in Ecuador. The team spent yesterday at the Cayambe hut doing a little training/review and a lot of acclimatizing. Weather looked fairly solid when they reported in yesterday so the plan was to climb today. Won’t likely be able to post news of their success until tomorrow but remember – no news is good news. Any way you cut it, 19,000’ is high so they have their work cut out for them. Wishing everyone the best.
Phil Ershler
January 12, 2020
We’ve received updates from down South, so it’s time to get caught up.
Let’s start way south and work our way north. Jonathan Schrock got a text out this morning. He and the team have been at Union Glacier, waiting for better flying weather. Not exactly tough duty, but Jonathan wrote to say he’s running out of dinner stories for the team. He’s lying: with his climbing history, I don’t think that’s possible. Regardless, visibility appears to be improving, and he anticipates being at Vinson Base Camp today.
The team is in good shape and is just ready to get a move on to get busy climbing Vinson. Jonathan did get a photo out just before the doors closed on the IL 76:
Flight to Antarctica on the Il 76 Russian cargo jet (Jonathan Schrock)
Flying to the Ice in this 1970’s vintage Russian cargo jet is an adventure all in itself. All good on The Ice.
Our team on Aconcagua is making steady progress. The team made their three day trek into base camp without issue, and everyone passed their health checks. They’re at C1, 16,200’, sticking to the plan of a carry and then a move to the next higher camp. Guide Harry Hamlin was able to get out a pretty nice photo as they approached base camp a couple of days ago:
Last stretch to Aconcagua base camp (Harry Hamlin)
That’s Aconcagua on the left of the photo and Ameghino on the right. Route to C2 heads right between the two.
Foggy summit on Fuya Fuya (Romulo Cardenas)
As we continue our tour of the Southern Hemisphere, let’s check in with our Ecuador team led by Jay Lyons and Romulo Cardenas. These guys are in the “minimal work/lots of fun†phase of the expedition. With all members having successfully arrived, the team got in a day touring Old Town Quito before heading north, crossing the equator and then visiting the famous Indian market of Otavalo. Outside of Otavalo are perfect areas for acclimatization prior to their attempt on Cayambe.
Yesterday was a hike around the crater of Fuya Fuya, and they should be hiking the peak of Imbarbura today. All of which is in preparation for heading up to attempt Cayambe.
Phil Ershler
January 10th, 2020
Aconcagua Base Camp Guanacos Valley (Peter Adams)
IMG, Senior Guide, Nickel Wood, called in from Aconcagua base camp. It is hot, windy, and dusty, but all is well. Rest day tomorrow and Camp 1 the day after.
Heather Garland
Jan 9, 2020
You can see why Ouray, CO is one of the premier winter playgrounds for Ice Climbing. The sun stays out of the canyons for most of the winter season preserving the high quality ice.
Our Ouray Climbing Program is in full swing and the ice is in!  We still have some extra days on the calendar if you are looking to climb some ice this winter.  Whether you are there to climb ice for the 1st time or the 100th time, it is always a fun time.
Thanks to the Ouray Ice Park for putting together such a great time-lapse of the park.
Peter Adams
January 8, 2020
Heading toward Cathedral Gap on Mt. Rainier (Betsy Dain-Owens)
Just a reminder that IMG’s Denali Prep Seminar & Summit Climb on Mt. Rainier is an excellent prep course for big mountains around the world. The program focuses on expedition style climbing in harsh, high altitude environments with training on fixed line ascension, belaying/rappelling, route finding, glacier navigation, avalanche hazard evaluation, crevasse rescue, and more. While summits in the winter are rare, the opportunity to train during an attempt is invaluable.
This is by far the most intensive program available if your’re looking to head to Denali, the Wrangell-St. Elias, or the Himalayas.Â
Available dates:
February 22-28
March 7-13
March 21-27
Email office@mountainguides.com for more information.
Heather Garland
January 8, 2020
Vinson team members ready to fly to the Ice (Jonathan Schrock)
With their gear checks and orientation complete, Johnathan Schrock has our second Vinson team of the season in Punta Arenas, Chile and flying out onto the Ice almost a day ahead of schedule.
When you’re hot, you’re hot!
Phil Ershler
January 8, 2020
Aconcagua team ready to hit the trail (Nickel Wood)
Dispatch from down south: “Ready to hit the trail and ascend the Vacas Valley toward our object, The Stone Sentinel – Cerro Aconcagua!”
Nickel, Harry, and team look fit, strong, and ready to go!
Heather Garland
January 7, 2020
Vinson team dinner (Jonathan Schrock)
IMG Senior Guide, Jonathan Schrock, checked in with this photo from dinner. There is an excellent phrase describing a polar explorer on one of Ernest Shakleton’s expeditions to Antarctica that comes to mind. One man said of another, “he had a face that had a built-in mischievous expression”. We think that sums up Johnny just fine.
We’ll update as the Vinson team continues on their journey!
If this is a trip that is on your list for next year, now is the time to start planning. Seats on the flights are limited and book early. Email office@mountainguides.com for details.
Heather Garland
