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Checking out the climbing route for Everest 2021

March 9, 2021

West Shoulder with ice block gone (Phunuru Sherpa)
West Shoulder with ice block gone (Phunuru Sherpa)
Upper Icefall (Phunuru Sherpa)
Upper Icefall (Phunuru Sherpa)

Phunuru checked in from Phortse where he has been doing some training with our guide team, as well as recently taking a really incredible helicopter ride up into the Western Cwm.  He reports that the Lhotse Face is in good shape and he said the precarious ice block that was hanging over the Icefall on the West Shoulder has released.  Great news!

Western Cwm 3-9-21 (Phunuru Sherpa)
Western Cwm 3-9-21 (Phunuru Sherpa)
Lhotse Face 3-9-21 (Phunuru Sherpa)
Lhotse Face 3-9-21 (Phunuru Sherpa)
Lhotse Face (Phunuru Sherpa)
Lhotse Face (Phunuru Sherpa)

Greg Vernovage

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IMG Preparations in full swing for Everest 2021

March 1, 2021

 

Repackaging oxygen for the trip to Base Camp on a yak (Ang Jangbu Sherpa)

Repackaging oxygen for the trip to Base Camp on a yak (Ang Jangbu Sherpa)

It’s March, and that means Everest season is just around the corner.  Over in Nepal, after a long hiatus, IMG Senior Guide Phunuru Sherpa and our other Phortse based guides and Sherpas are chomping at the bit to get back on Everest!  Now, they are preparing to start moving our equipment and supplies up to Everest Base Camp, and our advance Base Camp construction team will soon be moving up to begin building all of the tent platforms.

Phunuru and wife Kancha by their house in Phortse (Eric Simonson)

Phunuru and wife Kancha by their house in Phortse (Eric Simonson)

Just yesterday, the Icefall Doctors, employed by Sagarmatha Pollution Control Committee (SPCC) started their trek to Everest Base Camp.  Their job is to get a head start on the climbers, as they will be building the route through the Icefall in the coming weeks.  It’s a difficult task which requiring the installation of many ladders and ropes, and we wish them the best as they start this hard work.  Back at home here in the USA, our team is assembling the final loads of gear to send over to Nepal and looking forward to getting out the door ourselves.  We are ready to head to Mount Everest this Spring!

SPCC Icefall Doctors at their Base Camp puja (Phunuru Sherpa)

SPCC Icefall Doctors at their Base Camp puja (Phunuru Sherpa)

Greg Vernovage

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Mt Vinson January 2022 availability

February 24, 2021

Last steps to the top (Eric Simonson)

Last steps to the top (Eric Simonson)

There were NO Mt. Vinson programs operated this past season (with any company) due to COVID.  For that reason there is now a backlog of climbers wishing to climb Mt Vinson for the upcoming 2021-22 season, and there are only a very few seats remaining on the IL-76 flights to the ice. Our IMG November 2021 Mt Vinson trip with Justin Merle is filled. We are currently holding a few additional seats for our January 6, 2022 Mt Vinson trip with Jonathan Schrock. We are quite certain that all the Vinson seats will be sold in the next few weeks (with any operator).

If you want to climb Mt Vinson with IMG in the 2021-22 season, now is the time to commit. Please get in touch ASAP.  First come, first served!

Eric Simonson

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Escape to Bolivia!

February 16, 2021

Road to Illimani with the mountain in the distance (Harry Hamlin)
Road to Illimani with the mountain in the distance (Harry Hamlin)
Full moon over Huayna Potosi (Greg Vernovage)
Pequeno Alpamayo/Condoriri Base Camp (Greg Vernovage)
Pequeno Alpamayo/Condoriri Base Camp (Greg Vernovage)

Legend has it that Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid made a break for it, escaping the USA and heading to Bolivia to hide out after robbing banks.  We are all looking for places to go right now and we have a good looking team coming together for Bolivia.  We do not suggest robbing any banks to go down there but we do think this trip is a great bang for the buck!  Join IMG in Bolivia from July 18-30 (Illimani Extension July 31 – August 6, 2021)

Shoot us a note if you are interested here. (Get it? “shoot” us a note)

Greg Vernovage

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2021 Mt Rainier Season Kick Off

February 3, 2021

IMG Guide Jay Lyons contemplates Mt Rainier
A Denali Prep Seminar team practices dragging gear via sled

The summer Mt Rainier season is coming up fast! We’re busy at IMG HQ preparing to get our first Mt Rainier trip of 2021 in to the field this weekend. The sleds have been organized, the snowshoes arranged, and our team is ready for a week full of learning some of the most important skills that are key to success on Denali. Many people reach out asking about which boots are right for which trips, and we always direct them to this comprehensive article written by our very own Porter McMichael. If you’re unsure of which boot is best for which trip, this is the place to start.

 

Even with summer right around the corner, it is very much still winter and wintry conditions are expected to continue for some time yet. It’s not too late to get out into the snow! Are you thinking of climbing Denali? Come join us on our Mt Rainier Denali Prep Seminar on Mount Rainier. We’ve added dates and still have availability, but it’s going quick. Are you wanting to develop your backcountry ski/avalanche skills? Come join us for one of our AIARE Level 1 courses this spring, perfect prep for some Pacific North West Spring skiing.

 

Mt Rainier Denali Prep Seminar

Mar 6-12 (1 spot remaining)

Mar 20-26 (Just added)

 

AIARE Level 1

Feb 26-28 (2 spots remaining)

Mar 12-14

 

Happy Climbing

-The IMG Team

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IMG Everest 2021 Base Camp Reserved

December 17, 2020

IMG EBC 2021 with PK (Pega Sherpa)

IMG EBC 2021 with PK (Pega Sherpa)

Great news from Everest Base Camp came in this weekend!  IMG Guides Pega and PK Sherpa went to Everest Base Camp to reserve our site.  PK and Pega reported excellent conditions around our campsite and there are two clean water sources on the backside. They team spent the night in Gorakshep last night.

IMG Senior Guide Phunuru Sherpa has already put our guide team together for this Spring and will be sending the advanced team to EBC soon. The advanced team will go to Base Camp to start the long and difficult task of carving out tent platforms and setting up tents.  This is great news and we are happy to announce the 2021 Everest Season is underway!

Reserving EBC Campsite (Pega Sherpa)
Reserving EBC Campsite (Pega Sherpa)
Looking towards the Icefall from the 2021 EBC Campsite (Pega Sherpa)
Looking towards the Icefall from the 2021 EBC Campsite (Pega Sherpa)

Greg Vernovage

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That’s A Wrap For 2020

December 30, 2020

Happy Holidays!

On one hand it’s hard to believe 2020 is over, on the other hand it’s been one of the longest years on record! Like most businesses, here at IMG, we took our bumps & bruises in 2020. We missed more countries & rescheduled more climbs than we care to count, but we’re still here and looking forward to 2021… and beyond!

On the bright side of 2020, we were able to run over 30 Rainier climbs via the Disappointment Cleaver Route and a lot of climbs of Mt. Baker & Mt. Shuksan. It was a huge effort by the guides to maintain our Covid-19 protocols, but in their truest of forms, they knocked it out of the park. We’re taking all that we learned in 2020 and will use it as the foundation for our climbs in 2021. As such, we’ve got a full slate of programs scheduled for this winter in New England, Ouray, and on Mt. Rainier as well as spring climbs of Mt. Whitney, a full schedule of climbs and treks on Everest, a full summer of sold out climbs of Mt. Rainier, and an ever filling schedule of Mt. Baker, Mt. Shuksan and other climbs here in the PNW.

We fully recognize that things are still pretty fragile, and more fluid that we’d all like, but have a lot to be thankful for, and even more to look forward to.

See you in the mountains!

IMG Team

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New height for Everest!

December 12, 2020

Mount Everest from the summit of Lhotse (Phunuru Sherpa)

Mount Everest from the summit of Lhotse (Phunuru Sherpa)

China and Nepal share the summit of Mt Everest and have agreed to revised elevation. A group of Chinese surveyors and climbers climbed the north side in the spring 2020 season and have released their new height as 8,848.86m (29,032 ft). This is about halfway between the 1954 Survey of India calculation of  8,848m (29,028 ft) and the slightly greater height of 8,850m (29,035 ft) determined in 1999 by the National Geographic Society and Boston’s Museum of Science. It’s great news that Everest did not shrink too much after the 2015 earthquake, as some had feared. It’s still the world’s highest!

Congratulations to all of the climbers who have summited this beautiful mountain.

We are super motivated as we look forward to returning to Nepal and preparing for Everest 2021!

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Join IMG On Mt. Rainier This Winter

October 23, 2020

An IMG Team taking it all in (Dave Coon)

While the bulk of summer season on Mt. Rainier is sold out, we still have availability on some of our winter Avalanche & Denali Prep Courses.

AIARE Avalanche Level 1 – Whether you are new to exploring the mountains during the winter or want to freshen up on your snow and avalanche skills, you’ll find topics covered in this course tailored to the backcountry recreationist. This curriculum meets and exceeds all guidelines put forth by the American Avalanche Association’s Education Committee for an Avalanche Level 1 course.

Mt Rainier (meeting at IMG headquarters in Ashford, WA):
December 18-20, 2020
January 1-3, 2021

Crystal Mountain (meeting at the Crystal Mountain Fire Hall):
January 22-24, 2021
February 12-14, 2021
February 26-28, 2021
March 12-14, 2021

Avalanche Rescue Couse – AIARE Avalanche Rescue is a one-day course that focuses on the basics of companion rescue for new students. Returning participants will expand their skill set with advanced topics and realistic scenario practice to help improve their skills. This program is intended to be retaken every other year or so to keep up on best practices in rescue techniques and gear. The Avalanche Rescue Course is a prerequisite of the AIARE Level 2 Course. Each student will receive professional coaching on their rescue skills as well as a rescue card acknowledging the completion date.

Meeting at IMG headquarters in Ashford, WA:
January 4, 2021

Meeting at the Crystal Mountain Ski Area:
January 25, 2021

Denali Expedition Seminar  – Training focused on preparation for an IMG expedition to Denali or other high altitude peaks. Get the best possible training necessary to participate in an expedition to Denali including ice axe arrest, cramponing, sled rigging and hauling, expedition camps, snow shelters, snow anchors, crevasse rescue and fixed ropes. This program is equally useful for those looking for a good introductory winter training seminar. February, March and April only.

February 6-12, 2021 (2 spots open)
March 6-12, 2021 (4 spots open)
April 3-9, 2021 (1 spot open)

 

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2021 Rainier Dates Released

October 13, 2020

One of our 2020 Teams on the summit of Mt. Rainier. (Justin Merle)

After an abbreviated 2020 season on Mt. Rainier, we’re happy to announce a full slate of programs in 2021!

6.5 Day Denali Prep Seminar – This program is a perfect introduction to extreme cold weather mountaineering and a prerequisite for a guided Denali Expedition. Learn crevasse rescue, sled rigging & hauling, expedition camping, navigation, fixed line travel, and more.

AIARE Avalanche Level I – This three day course is an introduction to the skills a backcountry recreationist needs to safely travel in avalanche terrain. Topics covered include identifying avalanche terrain, understanding snowpack basics, developing a plan, team decision making, and fundamentals of companion rescue.

AIARE Avalanche Rescue Course – This one day program is intended to be retaken every other year to maintain and hone your companion rescue skills. New students can focus on the basics of companion rescue while returning students expand their skills with advanced topics. All students receive in-depth training and feedback during realistic scenario practice. The Avalanche Rescue Course is a prerequisite of the AIARE Level 2 Course.

3.5 Day Disappointment Cleaver Route - This program is an enjoyable way to climb Rainier and is also a great introduction to mountaineering. Learn to climb safely and efficiently with expert instruction on cramponing, ice axe arrest, and rope team travel.

Women’s 3.5 Day Disappointment Cleaver Climb - If you’re a woman looking to climb and make connections with other strong women, don’t miss this program. Led by an all-female guide crew, this program follows the same itinerary as our other 3.5 Day DC Climbs.

4.5 Day Emmons Route - Excellent for the strong beginner to intermediate climber with a very high level of fitness and stamina. The Emmons climb offers a more remote, aesthetic experience on a quieter side of the mountain. Expedition-style climbing requires a heavier pack than our standard DC program, but it’s well worth the effort.

Kautz Route – This exciting intermediate route includes ascending a 30-50 degree snow/ice chute. Because the Kautz is more demanding and technical than the standard routes, prerequisites include a prior summit of Mt. Rainier via the DC or Emmons (or a comparable glacier climb approved by IMG). Come test your mettle on this challenging route off the beaten path.

Advanced climbers will enjoy the challenge of more technical programs such as the Fuhrer Finger and Liberty Ridge.

Additional training programs focusing on skills development include our, Glacier Skills Seminar, Mountaineering Day School, Advanced Mountaineering Day School, and Crevasse Rescue School.

Check out our Rainier FAQ and click here to register!

Important details on the application process:

  • As you scan the dates please note that the already limited availability is due to the rescheduling of our 2020 climbers who had their climbs cancelled due to Covid-19.
  • Please note that the only way to apply for a spot on a Mt. Rainier program is to submit a completed Rainier application form and application fee. Absolutely no reservations or holds will be taken by phone. No exceptions. 
  • Each application is time-stamped and processed in the order in which it is received. List your available dates in order of preference and if you are climbing with one or more partners, you’ll want to include each other’s names in the space provided on the application. It is best to send your applications all together in one email.  
  • All fees are non-refundable and non-transferable. We strongly advise that you purchase travel insurance that includes trip cancellation coverage to protect your investment in the event you need to cancel.

IMG Team

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