Updates from Nepal

March 11, 2020

: Yaks on the way to EBC with Nuptse behind (Eric Simonson)

: The Icefall Doctors at their Base Camp puja (Eric Simonson)

We received word from Nepal that the Team of SPCC â€œIcefall Doctorsâ€ have now left Kathmandu and will be heading to Everest Base Camp over the next week. The 8 Sherpa on the team will be in charge of putting in the route to Camp 2, and maintaining it throughout the 2020 Spring Climbing Season.

Also, Ang Jangbu reports that the HRA have confirmed their medical doctors for the upcoming season, who will be staffing the HRA clinics at Pheriche,Â and also at the â€œEverest ERâ€ at Everest Base Camp. The HRA team will also be moving uphill in the coming days. Weâ€™ll look forward to seeing our friends again at the Himalayan Rescue Association (HRA) and Everest ER!

Finally, our big food shipment is inbound to Kathmandu as we speak. Our staff willÂ break it down and pack it into yak loads and send it to Khumbu for the trip uphill to Everest Base Camp.

We are getting closer to the departure date!

Greg Vernovage

Prep for Mt Rainier – March 10, 2020

March 6, 2020

Descending from the summit of Mt. Rainier, May 2019 (Jay Lyons)

Join IMG & REI at REI in Bellevue, WA on Wednesday, March 10, 2020 from 6:00 PM â€“ 7:30 PM for a 90 minute presentation on what it takes to summit Washingtonâ€™s highest peak, 14,410′ Mount Rainier! IMG Guide, Jay Lyons, will lead an in-depth talk covering training, trip planning, gear selection, route selection, and more.

This program is open to the public and free of charge. Whether you are climbing with an independent party or as part of a guided group, you are welcome!

Register today!

Heather Garland

More Food on the Way to Everest

March 5, 2020

Don (our longtime shipping agent) and Eric with some of the duffels (Greg Vernovage)

It has been a busy week for us, as we purchased more expedition food, removed all the unnecessary packaging, and then carefully repacked it into waxed boxes for its journey from USA to Nepal and on to Base Camp for our upcoming 2020 Everest Expedition.Â After a few days of work, the excitement comes when we deliver the load to our shipping agent atÂ SeaTac airport.Â Food, including plenty of bacon, is on the launching pad for Kathmandu!

In Nepal, Ang Jangbu and Senior Guide, Phunuru Sherpa, sent word that a team of 14 Advanced Sherpa will meet Ang Pasang in Gorakshep on the 20^thÂ of March and begin building our camp site at Everest Base Camp on March 21^st.

Gorakshep with Lho La, The West Shoulder and Nuptse (Sonam Dorje Sherpa)

: Greg says we can never have too much bacon (Eric Simonson)

: Food pile for Everest (Eric Simonson)

Our climbing team is doing exactly what they should be doing, making piles of gear, packing, and repacking.Â I have received a number of great phone calls or exchanged emails with climbers and trekkers asking all of the right questions about dialing their systems.

Follow all of the action on our 2020 Everest Blog!

Greg Vernovage
everest@mountainguides.com

Mt. Whitney Dates Available!

March 3, 2020

Looking up from Camp 1 (Kurt Wedberg)

Join us this spring in the fabulous Sierra Nevada for a trip up the highest peak in the lower 48. Climb 14,495′ Mt. Whitney via the Mountaineer’s Route on some of the finest terrain available. Techniques used to climb the route include running belays and fixed line ascension, making this an excellent primer for a Denali expedition, climbing elsewhere in Alaska, and the Alps.

Available dates:

March 26-29, 2020 (two spots open)
March 28-31, 2020
April 4-7, 2020
April 9-12, 2020

This route is only “in” for a short time, so sign up today while spots are still open!

Email office@mountainguides.com for more information.

Heather Garland

Prep for Mt. Rainier!

March 3, 2020

IMG climbers descending from the summit of Mt. Rainier after their Glacier Skills Seminar (Nate Sievert)

Join IMG & REI at Odin Brewing Company in Tukwila, WA onÂ Wednesday, March 4^th, 2020Â fromÂ 5:30 PMÂ â€“Â 7:00 PMÂ for a 90 minute presentation on what it takes to summit Washingtonâ€™s highest peak,Â Mount Rainier! IMG Guide, Patrick Mauro, will lead an in-depth talk covering training, trip planning, gear selection, route selection, and more.

This program is open to the public and free of charge. Whether you are climbing with an independent party or as part of a guided group, you are welcome!

Register today!

Heather Garland

Ouray Season Winding Down

March 2, 2020

IMG Senior Guide, Andy Polloczek, on mixed terrain in Ouray, Colorado (Justin Merle)

Check out this shot Andy Polloczek sent us from Ouray today! As the team wraps up another stellar season, we’d like to thank the Ice Farmers in the Ouray Ice Park, Mother Nature, and our amazing clients and guides, without whom none of this would be possible. If you missed out this year, registration opens in August for 2021.

If you’re still looking to do some winter objectives before summer rolls around, we have availability for climbs of 14,495′ Mt. Whitney in California and 6,288′ Mt. Washington in New Hampshire.

Mt. Whitney Dates:
March 26-29
April 2-5
April 4-7
April 9-12

Mt. Washington Dates:
March 14
March 22
March 29
April 4
April 11

Presidential Traverse:
March 8-11

Submit your application to office@mountainguides.com to register.

Heather Garland

May & June DC Spots Open!

February 28, 2020

Mt. Rainier in the early season (Betsty Dain-Owens)

If you were hoping for a chance to climb Mt. Rainier this season, you’re in luck! We have new openings on the 3.5 Day Camp Muir/DC:

May 23-26
June 8-11

Send your completed application to office@mountainguides.com!

Heather Garland

Rope Fixing in Preparation for the Upcoming Everest/Lhotse Season

February 27, 2020

Heli Photo-Ang Jangbu Sherpa

We received an update overnight from Ang Jangbu in Kathmandu about the first Expedition Operators Association Â (EOA) meeting of the season.Â Â The local representatives of over 25 expedition teams gathered to review the details for rope fixing in preparation for the upcoming Everest/Lhotse season.Â Â Currently the plan will involve 8 dedicated rope fixing Sherpa from Camp 2 to the Summit, in addition to the â€œIcefall Doctorsâ€ (employed by SPCC) Â who will be working on the route from EBC to Camp 2.

The tentative plan is for the rope fixing team to reach the South Col by the end of April and fix to the summit during the first week of May, weather and conditions permitting.Â There are many factors that go into the fixing of Mount Everest, and we will be looking forward to getting updates as the season moves forward.Â The EOA has ordered the rope fixing gear and will be organizing the helicopter flight to Camp 2 with the gear, under permit from the Department of Tourism (DoT).

Greg Vernovage

Fuhrer Finger Available Dates

February 27, 2020

IMG climbers working their way to the summit on the Fuhrer Finger (Chris Meder)

Make 2020 the summer you climb the Fuhrer Finger on Mt. Rainier. If you’re an intermediate to advanced climber with a prior summit of Mt. Rainier, then this early season, small group climb should be on your short list. This route is especially enjoyable for previous Kautz climbers, given its technical difficulties and strenuous nature. The chute is just a few hundred feet across and 40-50 degrees steep. Challenging and away from the crowds – a perfect mountaineering combo!

Available Dates:

May 26-31
June 9-14
June 27 – July 2

Submit your application with climbing resume to office@mountainguides.com for consideration.

Heather Garland

Ice Climbing Champney Falls, NH

February 27, 2020

: All tied in at Champney Falls, NH (Craig John)

: IMG client, Ashley Pullen, climbing Champney Falls, NH (Craig John)

Our New England team has been busy this week! With excellent conditions in the White Mountains of New Hampshire and slightly longer days, guides and clients have been out having a good time everywhere from Left Gully in Tuckerman Ravine to Pinnacle Gully in Huntington Ravine and Champney Falls off the Kancamagus Highway.

Be sure to check out all of their recent adventures on Facebook and Instagram and then sign yourself up for some of the fun. There’s no better way to spend the month of March!

Email office@mountainguides.com for availability.

Heather Garland