Rope Fixing in Preparation for the Upcoming Everest/Lhotse Season

February 27, 2020

Heli Photo-Ang Jangbu Sherpa

We received an update overnight from Ang Jangbu in Kathmandu about the first Expedition Operators Association Â (EOA) meeting of the season.Â Â The local representatives of over 25 expedition teams gathered to review the details for rope fixing in preparation for the upcoming Everest/Lhotse season.Â Â Currently the plan will involve 8 dedicated rope fixing Sherpa from Camp 2 to the Summit, in addition to the â€œIcefall Doctorsâ€ (employed by SPCC) Â who will be working on the route from EBC to Camp 2.

The tentative plan is for the rope fixing team to reach the South Col by the end of April and fix to the summit during the first week of May, weather and conditions permitting.Â There are many factors that go into the fixing of Mount Everest, and we will be looking forward to getting updates as the season moves forward.Â The EOA has ordered the rope fixing gear and will be organizing the helicopter flight to Camp 2 with the gear, under permit from the Department of Tourism (DoT).

Greg Vernovage

Fuhrer Finger Available Dates

February 27, 2020

IMG climbers working their way to the summit on the Fuhrer Finger (Chris Meder)

Make 2020 the summer you climb the Fuhrer Finger on Mt. Rainier. If you’re an intermediate to advanced climber with a prior summit of Mt. Rainier, then this early season, small group climb should be on your short list. This route is especially enjoyable for previous Kautz climbers, given its technical difficulties and strenuous nature. The chute is just a few hundred feet across and 40-50 degrees steep. Challenging and away from the crowds – a perfect mountaineering combo!

Available Dates:

May 26-31
June 9-14
June 27 – July 2

Submit your application with climbing resume to office@mountainguides.com for consideration.

Heather Garland

Ice Climbing Champney Falls, NH

February 27, 2020

: All tied in at Champney Falls, NH (Craig John)

: IMG client, Ashley Pullen, climbing Champney Falls, NH (Craig John)

Our New England team has been busy this week! With excellent conditions in the White Mountains of New Hampshire and slightly longer days, guides and clients have been out having a good time everywhere from Left Gully in Tuckerman Ravine to Pinnacle Gully in Huntington Ravine and Champney Falls off the Kancamagus Highway.

Be sure to check out all of their recent adventures on Facebook and Instagram and then sign yourself up for some of the fun. There’s no better way to spend the month of March!

Email office@mountainguides.com for availability.

Heather Garland

Winter Ascent of Left Gully in Tuckerman Ravine

February 26, 2020

: IMG client, Joe Manning, climbing Left Gully in Tuckerman Ravine (Craig John)

: Left Gully, Tuckerman Ravine, Mt. Washington, NH (Craig John)

: All is well in Left Gully! (Craig John)

IMG New England Program Director, Craig John, checked in with these frosty pics of IMG client, Joe Manning, on Left Gully in Tuckerman Ravine on Mt. Washington, NH. Now that you’ve seen the conditions, it’s time to sign up for your adventure in the alpine zone of the Presidential Range! Join CJ for a one day winter ascent of 6,288′ Mt. Washington or a four day, 20+ mile Presidential Traverse!

With average temperatures of 12 degrees and average wind speeds of 40mph in March, it’s the perfect time and place for a winter mountaineering seminar!

Email office@mountainguides.com for availability.

Heather Garland

Ice Climbing NH – Conditions Are “In”!

February 24, 2020

Ice climbing in NH (Dan Riethmuller, Nickel Wood)

‘Tis the season for ice climbing in New Hampshire’s White Mountains! Join IMG guides for a world-class experience a mere 2 1/2 hours north of Boston. With two major airports servicing the region, Logan & Manchester, there’s no excuse to not make the trip.Â Whether you are brand new to ice climbing or looking to expand your skills, training on some of nature’s most accessible water ice is as simple as an email or call to the office and registering today. Group and private sessions are available.

Heather Garland

100% Kili Summits

February 24, 2020

The team on the summit of Uhuru Peak (Phunuru Sherpa)

Phunuru Sherpa called to report that the Kilimanjaro climb went well today, with 100% on the summit of Uhuru Peak (the true summit of Kili). He was also able to send out a summit photo. Congrats and well done, team! Now they are all back down to the Millennium Camp (about 12,000 ft) where they are spending the night, and in the morning they will be finishing off the descent to the Mweka Gate.

Eric Simonson

Game Time on Kilimanjaro

February 23, 2020

Phunuru Sherpa called from 15,000 ft at Barafu Camp to report the team had a very nice hike today coming up from Karanga Camp. They enjoyed spectacular views of the south side of the mountain, and everyone is feeling good for their Summit Climb tomorrow.

Climbers at Barafu Camp with the view up the route (Phunuru Sherpa)

Since today was a relatively short day, they arrived to Barafu in time for a hot lunch, then spent the afternoon resting and preparing. After an early dinner, it was an early bedtime. Their plan is to get up at 11pm and be walking by midnight which should put them on the summit right about sunrise.

Best wishes to everyone, and weâ€™ll be looking forward to hearing from them tomorrow.

Eric Simonson

Kilimanjaro Climbers Reach Karanga Camp

February 22, 2020

Today was one of my personal favorite days of the Kilimanjaro Climb. Phunuru Sherpa reports that the team had great weather for their ascent from the Barranco Camp to the top of the Barranco Wall. This is a steep trail, with one very short section where you must use your hands.

The steep spot on the ascent of the Barranco Wall (Eric Simonson)

From the highpoint the team were treated to close-up views of the Breach Wall and Southern Glaciers.

Great view from the top of the Barranco Wall (Phunuru Sherpa)

Continuing their eastward traverse around the south side of the mountain, they eventually reached the Karanga Camp which (like Barranco) is also at about 13,000 ft.

Karanga Camp (Eric Simonson)

This is a perfect acclimatization profile for the team, before their climb tomorrow up to the Barafu Camp (15,000 ft). Itâ€™s a short day up to Barafu Camp tomorrow, so the climbers will arrive before lunch with all afternoon to rest and prepare for climbing to the summit the next day. So far, so good!

Eric Simonson

Kili Climbers Reach Barranco Camp

February 21, 2020

: On the way to Barranco Camp (Phunuru Sherpa)

: Barranco Camp with the Breach Wall and Icicle above (Eric_Simonson)

Phunuru Sherpa checked in to say the team had another good day, with only 10 minutes of rain this afternoon as a cloud passed by. On the way to Barranco Camp, the team ascended to Lava Tower (about 15,000 ft) before dropping down to the Camp at about 13,000 feet. Spectacular views abound, with the huge Breach Wall of Kilimanjaro dominating the scene. Right smack in the middle of the Wall is the Breach Icicle, climbed by famous climber Reinhold Messner in 1978. So far the team is doing well and having fun!

Eric Simonson

Kilimanjaro Climbers Reach Shira Camp

February 20, 2020

Kili climbers at Shira Camp (Phunuru Sherpa)

Phunuru Sherpa reports that the team had another beautiful day today as they hiked up to the Shira Plateau at about 12,300 feet. They are now in the moorland zone, with giant heather plants and giant groundsel plants along the way.

: Climbing through the heather on the way to Shira Camp (Eric_Simonson)

: Hanging out at Shira Camp (Phunuru Sherpa)

Sounds like everyone is acclimatizing well and doing a good job. They had some clouds this afternoon but overall the weather is holding.

Eric Simonson