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Drying out after the storm on Everest

April 23, 2021

Sunset (Ang Jangbu Sherpa)
Sunset (Ang Jangbu Sherpa)
Sun after the storm (Kevin Kayl)
Sun after the storm (Kevin Kayl)
EBC with the stars (Jonathan Schrock)
EBC with the stars (Jonathan Schrock)

Jonathan and Jangbu checked in this morning to let us know the snow stopped falling and all is well at EBC and Camp 2.  Down at EBC, the team has been sitting tight.  Just as the forecast predicted, the mountain received a good amount of snow and then the sun came out and allowed us to dig out!  Up at Camp 2, the reports were of snow and strong winds.  Our Team worked hard to secure camp during the storm, and wanted to let us know our Camp held up well and we did not lose any tents.

Phunuru with Nima Doma and Pasang Kanchi (Ang Jangbu Sherpa)

Phunuru with Nima Doma and Pasang Kanchi (Ang Jangbu Sherpa)

Tomorrow, we will start climbing again, with four Sherpa heading up to Camp 2 and six Sherpa carrying to Camp 1 and setting up tents there.  Also up early will be Team 2 for a pre-dawn start on their Dry Run into the Icefall.  Back at EBC, IMG Senior Guide Phunuru Sherpa along with Nima Doma and Pasang Kanchi also decided to show off their new down suits for this season.  Looking good everyone!

All is well on Mount Everest!

Greg Vernovage

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Snow Day on Everest

April 22, 2021

2021 EBC after some snow (Kevin Kayl)

2021 EBC after some snow (Kevin Kayl)

Snow day at EBC (Kevin Kayl)

Snow day at EBC (Kevin Kayl)

We received word overnight that Everest has received a fair amount of snow.  The Team made a great decision to go into a holding pattern.  It is not uncommon to get some snow during the early stages of the season and the additional time resting at EBC will pay off for the team because they will be even stronger when the weather clears.  For now, they will wait out the snow and wind and then evaluate conditions before heading up on their first rotation.

All is well at a snowy Everest Base Camp!

Greg Vernovage

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Snow, Rest and securing Camp 3 on Everest

April 21, 2021

Lhotse Face 3-9-21 (Phunuru Sherpa)

Lhotse Face 3-9-21 (Phunuru Sherpa)

It was a quiet day at Everest Base Camp today.  Expedition Leader Jonathan Schrock checked in this morning to let us know that the team is doing great and had a nice rest today.  The decision to hold tight at EBC was understood when the snow started falling.  Jonathan said they currently had about 8 inches of new snow at EBC and were going to continue to evaluate the conditions on the upper mountain.  There is more snow and strong wind in the forecast for the next 24 hours.

At Camp 2, the report came in that our camp is in great shape and our Sherpa Team is holding tight.  We did manage to sneak in a climb to Camp 3 to secure our campsite.  A huge thanks to Kaji Man Tamang and Ngim Dorji Sherpa for getting up the Lhotse Face and Camp 3!  We will be looking forward to hearing a more detailed report of climbing condition on the Lhotse Face when they get back to EBC.

All is well on Mount Everest!

 

Greg Vernovage

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Rest Day and Sherpa Movement

April 20, 2021

Climbers navigating the Khumbu Icefall (Jonathan Schrock)

Climbers navigating the Khumbu Icefall (Jonathan Schrock)

Just off the phone with Expedition Leader Jonathan Schrock at EBC.  Our Team had a great rest day at EBC which includes laundry, showers and lounging which is all important during an expedition to Mount Everest.  These days are as important as any in terms of staying healthy and gaining the vital acclimatization for the weeks ahead.  Tomorrow, the team will do some ladder training in the morning with a hike in the afternoon.

A rappel section overlooking EBC (Jonathan Schrock)
A rappel section overlooking EBC (Jonathan Schrock)
Descending the Khumbu Icefall (Jonathan Schrock)
Descending the Khumbu Icefall (Jonathan Schrock)

Our Sherpa Team also had a great day carrying loads to Camp 2 and are all back to EBC.  We will have 2 Sherpa head up to Camp 3 to claim our spot and bring back a report about conditions on the Lhotse Face.

Sunset on Pumori (Ang Jangbu Sherpa)

Sunset on Pumori (Ang Jangbu Sherpa)

IMG Guide Phunuru Sherpa climbing a steep pitch in the_Icefall (Jonathan Schrock)

IMG Guide Phunuru Sherpa climbing a steep pitch in the_Icefall (Jonathan Schrock)

There is some wind and snow in the forecast which will put our team in a holding pattern for a couple days but there is still plenty to do at EBC involving packing gear and food for the first rotation.  It is typical that we have a few days of weather during the first part of the season and the team is in excellent position to head up the mountain when the time comes.

All is well on Mount Everest and please enjoy these incredible photos sent home from Jonathan and Ang Jangbu!

Greg Vernovage

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Team 2 at EBC and Successful Dry Run for Team 1

April 19, 2021

Team 1 Preparing to depart EBC (Ang Jangbu Sherpa)

Team 1 Preparing to depart EBC (Ang Jangbu Sherpa)

Team 2 had a great day trekking back to EBC after a successful climb of Lobuche Peak over the weekend.  The Team will now have a couple days of rest before doing some ladder training and preparation to head up on their Dry Run.  It is a great feeling to get the summit of Lobuche under their belt.  The additional acclimatization and training on Lobuche will help the team when it comes time to head up the Khumbu Icefall on their first rotation.

EBC from Look Out Point (Ang Jangbu Sherpa)

EBC from Look Out Point (Ang Jangbu Sherpa)

Team 1 set the bar high for themselves during the morning of the Dry Run.  The energy felt in the pre-dawn hours at EBC is amazing.  Climbers put in months of training and hard work in preparation to climb Mount Everest and it starts happening now!  Expedition Leader Jonathan Schrock reported that all members were dialed and departed EBC 5 minutes before their scheduled departure time of 3AM. Backpacks on and walking out of camp at 2:55am!  The Team had perfect weather and had a great morning climbing half way up the Icefall before returning to Base Camp.  Great job Everyone!

Geneva Spur and South Col (Ang Jangbu Sherpa)

Geneva Spur and South Col (Ang Jangbu Sherpa)

Ang Jangbu reported that Camp 2 is looking good with the main tents now up and more Sherpa carrying loads up nearly every day.  We have 24 more Sherpa heading to Camp 2 tomorrow.  We also received an update has come in from the fixing team up on the Lhotse Face.  They have now got the route fixed up to the Geneva Spur (well above Camp 3)!  We  soon be sending several of our Sherpa up the Lhotse Face to evaluate the route and claim our Camp 3 campsite.

All is well on Mount Everest!

Greg Vernovage

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Lobuche Summits and Ladder Training at EBC

April 18, 2021

2021 Everest Panorama (Ang Jangbu Sherpa)

2021 Everest Panorama (Ang Jangbu Sherpa)

We received great news over night that Team 2 had a beautiful morning to summit Lobuche Peak.  The team climbed well and had perfect weather for their climb.  The Team is now resting back at Lobuche Base Camp and will plan on heading back to EBC in the morning for some more well-deserved rest.  We will pass along more photos when the team gets back to EBC!

Lobuche High Camp (Phunuru Sherpa)

Lobuche High Camp (Phunuru Sherpa)

Up at EBC, Expedition Leader Jonathan Schrock reports that Team 1 had a cool morning with great weather.  Perfect time to do some additional fixed line work and ladder training in preparation for their “Dry Run” up the Khumbu Icefall.  The Team has a 3am departure time from EBC for their “Dry Run.” Perfect time to continue dialing our system and getting into the morning routine.

Close up on ladder crossing (Jonathan Schrock)

Close up on ladder crossing (Jonathan Schrock)

Our Team at Camp 2 also wanted to let us know that they are making excellent progress with building Camp 2.  They have our cook tent and dining tent already set up and will be ready for the climbers when they get there.

 

All is well on Lobuche and Mount Everest!

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Holding Patterns on Lobuche and Everest

April 16, 2021

Pasang Kanchi Sherpa and Nima Doma Sherpa (Ang_Jangbu_Sherpa)

Pasang Kanchi Sherpa and Nima Doma Sherpa (Ang Jangbu Sherpa)

Changing weather at EBC (Ang Jangbu Sherpa)

Changing weather at EBC (Ang Jangbu Sherpa)

Up and down the Khumbu Valley, our IMG Teams woke up to snowfall this morning.   Up on Everest the Carry Team were heading for Camp 2,  but decided to drop their loads at Camp 1 and returned to EBC for the day.  The Camp 2 Staff were also heading up, but decided to stop at Camp 1 to wait out the snow and get in another night of acclimatization at Camp 1 before heading on to Camp 2 tomorrow.

At Everest Base Camp the Team 1 climbers also got their first full day of rest.  This Team has been working hard and with fresh snow on the ground, it was a perfect day to hang out and give their bodies some well-deserved R and R. Patience and flexibility is the name of the game at Mt Everest!

Snow at EBC (Ang Jangbu Sherpa)

Snow at EBC (Ang Jangbu Sherpa)

Down at Lobuche Base Camp, the snowfall prompted Team 2 to re-evaluate the conditions and they also decided to take a rest day at Lobuche Base Camp.  This will allow the snow on the slabs heading to High Camp the chance to melt off during the afternoon.  The weather forecast is favorable over the next couple days and Team 2 will be ready to climb tomorrow.

We would also like to take a moment today to introduce and welcome two of our newest Sherpani guides to the IMG Team.  Pasang Kanchi Sherpa and Nima Doma Sherpa have been training under the tutelage of IMG Senior Guide and KCC Instructor Phunuru Sherpa for many years, and we look forward to working with them on Mt Everest.

All is well on Mount Everest and Lobuche!

Greg Vernovage

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Team 1 up to EBC and Team 2 down to LBC

April 15, 2021

Summit Panorama from Lobuche (Phunuru Sherpa)

Summit Panorama from Lobuche (Phunuru Sherpa)

Team 2 Puja (Kevin Kayl)

Team 2 Puja (Kevin Kayl)

Team 2 started the day with another Puja under beautiful skies.  Team Leader Kevin Kayl reports the team is doing great after a couple days of good training and a few nights of good sleep at Everest Base Camp.  After the Puja, the team headed down valley to Lobuche Base Camp to prepare for their climb.  Our Trekking Team also headed out and trekked down as far as Lobuche Village before saying farewell to the climbers and continuing to Pheriche.  The Team 2 climbers will head to High Camp in the morning to get in position for an alpine start the next day, while the Trekkers will continue to Namche, this time via Tengboche to visit the famous monastery on their way downhill.

After their successful Lobuche summits yesterday, Team 1 had a casual morning at Lobuche Base Camp, enjoying an extra cup of tea or coffee and celebrating their climb.  Then, after packing up, Team 1 trekked back to EBC, bringing with them some new photos from their Lobuche climb.  They will now enjoy a couple well deserved rest days before preparing to do their Dry Run up the Khumbu Icefall.

Climbers descending from the summit of Lobuche (Nawang_Tenzing Sherpa)
Climbers descending from the summit of Lobuche (Nawang_Tenzing Sherpa)
Climbers nearing the summit of Lobuche (Phunuru Sherpa)
Climbers nearing the summit of Lobuche (Phunuru Sherpa)

All is well in the Khumbu Valley!

Greg Vernovage

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Lobuche Summits, EBC Training, Camp 2 carries

April 4, 2021

On the way to High Camp on Lobuche Peak (Harry Hamlin)
On the way to High Camp on Lobuche Peak (Harry Hamlin)
On the way to the summit of Lobuche Peak (Harry Hamlin)
On the way to the summit of Lobuche Peak (Harry Hamlin)

Ang Jangbu reports from Everest Base Camp that our Teams are enjoying perfect weather for climbing and training!  Down at Lobuche Peak we had 100% Team 1 success this morning with all climbers and guides standing on top, enjoying a fantastic view of Everest.  They said that there is now only room for three people at a time to stand on the summit, as apparently a piece of the summit snow blob has fallen off!

Team Two training at EBC (Kevin Kayl)

Team Two training at EBC (Kevin Kayl)

Back up on Everest, our first big load carrying push was successful with a large team of Sherpas reaching Camp 2 and descending safely to Base Camp.  Well done!  Team Two had a training day on the ice near EBC and IMG leader Kevin Kayl says the team did well working out the bugs with their rigging and ice climbing before they head down to Lobuche Peak tomorrow.

All’s well at Everest!

Eric Simonson

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Puja Day on Mount Everest

April 12, 2021

Training obstacle course (Jonathan Schrock)
Training obstacle course (Jonathan Schrock)
Beautiful day for training (Ang Jangbu Sherpa)
Beautiful day for training (Ang Jangbu Sherpa)

It has been busy over the weekend at Everest Base Camp.  Expedition Leader Jonathan Schrock reports that Team 1 did some excellent training on the Lower Khumbu Glacier to fine tune their crampon and fixed rope skills,  before heading back down to Lobuche Base Camp for their acclimatization climb of Lobuche Peak.  This morning at Everest Base Camp also marked the Sherpa team’s traditional Puja Ceremony for good luck on the mountain.

Puja Dancing with the alter (Jonathan Schrock)
Puja Dancing with the alter (Jonathan Schrock)
Team 1 Puja (Ang Jangbu Sherpa)
Team 1 Puja (Ang Jangbu Sherpa)

Moving up to Everest Base Camp today was Team 2, after spending several days of acclimatization hiking in the Lobuche BC area.   Along the way they exchanged greetings on the trail with Team 1 heading downhill.   Team 2 is now settling in for a few days of rest and training at Everest Base Camp, and then in a few days they will also be headed back down to climb Lobuche Peak.  It takes time to get well acclimatized, and every day our climbers spend on the trail, at Lobuche Peak, and training on the glacier is “money in the bank”.  We feel strongly that there is no reason for anyone to be heading up the Icefall to Camps 1 & 2 until they are well prepared and acclimatized!

Team 2 at dinner time (Ang Jangbu Sherpa)

Team 2 at dinner time (Ang Jangbu Sherpa)

With their puja accomplished and our Sherpa team ready, tomorrow will mark the beginning of moving gear above EBC.  Ang Jangbu says that we have 28 Sherpas prepared to make their first carry to Camp 1 in the morning.  The team is excited and ready to get to work building Camp 1!

Beautiful weather and a lot going on at Everest Base Camp!

Greg Vernovage

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