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Second Team starting tonight

May 16, 2021

Lho La with Everest in the distant right (Ang Jangbu Sherpa)

Lho La with Everest in the distant right (Ang Jangbu Sherpa)

Expedition Leader Jonathan Schrock checked in from Everest Base Camp to let us know the second group of IMG climbers are ready to move up. The team filled up on pizza and chicken before heading to bed early, with their plan to be walking out of EBC at 1am to begin the climb of the Khumbu Icefall.  Meanwhile our first team of climbers are moving up to Camp 2 tomorrow.   Both teams will be reevaluating the weather at Camp 2, before moving up to Camp 3.

Oxygen practice before the summit bid (Ang Jangbu Sherpa)

Oxygen practice before the summit bid (Ang Jangbu Sherpa)

The Sherpa climbers that will be supporting the summit bids are also all be ready to go.  Today they distributed oxygen masks and regulators and did a final practice session with the cylinders.  They will move up as a group, and will meet the climbers at Camp 2.   We are all hoping that the forecasted drop in the high altitude wind speed over the next few days comes true.

We are moving in position to summit Mount Everest!

Greg Vernovage

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Prepped and Ready to Go on Everest

May 14, 2021

Everest from Pumori Camp 1 (Ang Jangbu Sherpa)

Everest from Pumori Camp 1 (Ang Jangbu Sherpa)

Purna prepping dinner (Jonathan Schrock)

Purna prepping dinner (Jonathan Schrock)

Expedition Leader Jonathan Schrock checked in from EBC to let us know that we are prepped and ready to begin the summit rotations.  The IMG climbers have packed their food, done their final practice with the oxygen masks, and had their final meetings about the plans.   The weather reports are improving in a few days, and the team is now looking forward to getting up the mountain and putting themselves in position for the summit bids.

Fitting the O2 bottle and regulator to a backpack (Jonathan Schrock)

Fitting the O2 bottle and regulator to a backpack (Jonathan Schrock)

It is always nice to fill up on good food before heading up the mountain, and this evening head cook Kaji and assistant cook Purna prepared a special steak and gravy dinner with all the trimmings for the departing climbers.   Our first group of climbers will be leaving Base Camp in the early morning hours tomorrow for their climb up the Icefall to Camp 1, and then up to Camp 2 the following day.  The second group will be leaving the following day.

It is getting exciting for the IMG Team on Mount Everest!

Greg Vernovage

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Gear in place and watching the weather forecast

May 13, 2021

IMG Sherpa Team (Greg Vernovage)

IMG Sherpa Team (Greg Vernovage)

Ang Jangbu reports that the upper mountain is stocked and ready for our team to head to the summit.  Great work by all of our Sherpa and a huge thank you!

IMG Expedition Leader Jonathan Schrock is watching the weather and has the team ready to go when we see an opening.  Forecasting the weather is a big challenge and we are anticipating a weather window in the next week or so; time will tell and we are ready to go!

All is well on Mount Everest!

Greg Vernovage

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Sherpas moving Oxygen and Gear on Mount Everest

May 12, 2021

Oxygen Cylinders at Camp 2 (Harry Hamlin)

Oxygen Cylinders at Camp 2 (Harry Hamlin)

The IMG Sherpa Team has been working hard on the upper mountain and Ang Jangbu reports that we have only a few more loads to stock at the South Col before we are ready to summit.  The weather looks good for the Sherpa Team to get this done tomorrow.

The  IMG Climbers at Everest Base Camp continue to recover and prepare.  They are watching the weather closely for their opportunity to begin the summit rotation.  In order to stay sharp, they will be taking some day hikes to the “lookout” above Base Camp, and also to Pumori Camp 1.

All is well on Mount Everest!

Greg Vernovage

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IMG Rainier Team Summits

After a stormy period on Mount Rainier, IMG is happy to report that lead guide Nickel Wood and his team took advantage of recent better weather to climb to the summit.  It was IMG’s first summit of the season; the guides are proud of having taken 100% of their team to the top.

 

With nice weather in the forecast we’re looking forward to continued successful climbs.  The guides are excited to be back in the mountains!

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Resting, Weather and Prepping for the Summit Rotation

May 11, 2021

From high on Lhotse looking down the Western Cwm with Shishapangma and Cho Oyu (Thunang Lomi Sherpa)

From high on Lhotse looking down the Western Cwm with Shishapangma and Cho Oyu (Thunang Lomi Sherpa)

Expedition Leader Jonathan Schrock checked in to let us know the Team is now resting at EBC and will wait for the weather to give us the green light for heading up on our summit rotation.  While the team rests, they will go over the oxygen system again and make sure they have it dialed.  Kaji made his famous Momo Dinner for everyone today.  A Momo is a chopped meat and vegetables wrapped in dough and then steamed, similar to a pot sticker.  They are delicious!  The team is now settling in to watch Terminator 3 on the projector.

Looking up the Lhotse Face (Rawan Dakik)
Looking up the Lhotse Face (Rawan Dakik)
IMG Guide Andy Politz drying his socks at Camp 2 (Rawan Dakik)
IMG Guide Andy Politz drying his socks at Camp 2 (Rawan Dakik)

Currently the Jet Stream is to the South of Mount Everest.  Over the next week, it is showing signs of moving over the summit and then to the North.  Once the Jet Stream moves away from the summit, we will put ourselves in position to head to the summit!

Everest Base Camp with low level clouds (Jonathan Schrock)

Everest Base Camp with low level clouds (Jonathan Schrock)

All is well on Mount Everest!

Greg Vernovage

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Lhotse Summit Fixed; Climbers continue to do Camp 3 Rotation

May 10, 2021

Descending a section of the Khumbu Icefall (Kevin Kayl)

Descending a section of the Khumbu Icefall (Kevin Kayl)

Expedition Leader Jonathan Schrock checked in to let us know that 6 Sherpa have now fixed to the summit of Lhotse!  This means that both Everest and Lhotse routes are in and ready for climbers to go when the weather allows.

The Icefall labyrinth (Kevin Kayl)

The Icefall labyrinth (Kevin Kayl)

Our Team is doing great with climbers at both Camp 2 and EBC.  The remainder of the Team will be back to EBC in the morning and will then take time to rest and prepare for their summit rotations.  The Camp 3 rotation is challenging for everyone and by completing it, climbers have put themselves in position to head up for the summit rotation.

 

IMG Senior Guide Phunuru Sherpa (Kevin Kayl)

IMG Senior Guide Phunuru Sherpa (Kevin Kayl)

The current forecast has the Jet Stream to the South of Mount Everest and slowly working its way back to the North.  We will rest at EBC and wait for the Jet Stream to move across the summit.  This is a typical pattern for this time of year and we are looking forward to getting a little rest while we wait!

All’s well for IMG on Mt Everest.

Greg Vernovage

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Fixing Team reach the summit; Cold and Breezy on the Lhotse Face

May 8, 2021

Upper Icefall to the Lhotse Face (Phunuru Sherpa)

Upper Icefall to the Lhotse Face (Phunuru Sherpa)

Good news today from up high on Everest, with the 12 members of the fixing team reaching the summit.  Congratulations to these men, they are the first Everest climbers in nearly two years! Now the route is open and hopefully the various teams will soon start making their summit bids.  By getting the fixing work done early in the season, there will be more time in the coming weeks to spread out all the summit bids, which should mitigate any traffic jam problems (like in 2019 when late fixing and bad weather caused the summit bids to get compressed into just a few days).

Our IMG climbers are doing well on their Camp 3 rotations.  Today our Team 1 made good time on a cold and breezy climb of the Lhotse Face to Camp 3, where they took a nice break for eating and drinking before returning to Camp 2.  Tomorrow they will descend to Base Camp as the Team 2 climbers move up into position. Over the next couple days the Team 2 climbers will also be climbing to Camp 3 and then descending to Base Camp.

With the route fixing done and the Camp 3 rotations underway, the final phase of the expedition is now beginning to take shape. The IMG climbers will all be back to Base Camp for a final rest before heading back up for the summit bids when the weather looks reasonable!

Greg Vernovage

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The Lhotse Face

May 6, 2021

Looking up the Western Cwm (Phunuru Sherpa)

Looking up the Western Cwm (Phunuru Sherpa)

Camp 2 on Mount Everest (Phunuru Sherpa)

Camp 2 on Mount Everest (Phunuru Sherpa)

Expedition Leader Jonathan Schrock checked in to let us know that the team at Camp 2 is prepped and ready to climb the Lhotse Face to Camp 3 in the morning.  Getting to Camp 3 the first time is a hard day of climbing, but the climbers are feeling strong and the conditions and weather report look favorable for tackling this highly anticipated section of the route.  A solid performance by the climbers during this rotation will give them confidence and will mean that they have qualified for the summit bids, once the fixing is done and the their weather window is open.

Our second group of climbers at EBC are also ready to go and feeling strong. They have been patient and have benefited from a good rest at Base Camp.  In the morning they will head up the Icefall with IMG Guide Andy Politz to put themselves in position to move to Camp 2, and then to Camp 3 on the Lhotse Face.

All is well on Mount Everest!

Greg Vernovage

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Climbers begin their Camp 3 Rotation on Everest

May 5, 2021

Climbers preparing to depart EBC (Ang Jangbu Sherpa)

Climbers preparing to depart EBC (Ang Jangbu Sherpa)

It has been a busy day on Mount Everest for the Team.  They were up on time and out the door at 2am with light snow falling at EBC.  Climbers moved efficiently up the Icefall, some stopping at Camp 1 for the night to rest up before moving into Camp 2 tomorrow while others going directly to Camp 2.  Our program is built to accommodate climbers who wish to break up the climb to Camp 2, and these are great decisions made with our Guide Team.

Lhotse Face 3-9-21 (Phunuru Sherpa)

Lhotse Face 3-9-21 (Phunuru Sherpa)

At Camp 2, IMG Lead Guide Phunuru Sherpa reported an additional 3 inches of snow today on top of a previous 6 inches.  The Team at Camp 2 will stay on schedule and take a rest day tomorrow before evaluating the conditions and route to Camp 3.

Down at EBC, the rest of our climbers who needed some additional time to rest and get strong for this rotation will take one more day before heading up.  The fixing team is staged at Camp 2 right now and are planning on heading up to fix to the summit on the 7th and the 8th.

All is well on Mount Everest!

Greg Vernovage

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